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MEG Captain
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5,225 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Are both sides the same or are they different shapes? Any problems I should know about when I change my passenger side one? Don't need to remove anything but the wheel to take it out do I? But...just looked at the ford TIS and it says to take driveshaft and track rod end out as well, that right?!

Cheers
 

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MEG Corporal
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801 Posts
driveshaft not, tr end rod yes, will be much easier, but on n/s you need to undo the subframe bolts(n/s only) and lower it(and the front and rear eng mounts they are attached to the subframe). and all this to gain enough space between the subframe and engine for the n/s front bolt out and in.
 

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MEG Captain
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5,225 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Damn that means it's gonna mess with me wheel alignment, just had me fine tune done!

I won't be doing the N/S myself due to previous problems with the subframe and it's gonna be a git to lower now! Leave this one to the garage and get them to raise the gearbox.
 

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MEG Corporal
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801 Posts
i found that is difficult to raise the eng/gb enough 'cos of the eng bay shape. With the td might be different.
if you are changing components as lower arms, springs, track end rods even shocks, you can't expect to keep the fine tracking. even more: only undoing and doing back some of the bolts on the suspension can disturb the tracking.
the good news is that the wheel's aligning limits are much wider than you expect. fine tunning is the best option ones you have covered some x000 miles first and everything is settled down after an initial setting up.
;)
wim can help you best with that matter.
 

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MEG Captain
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5,225 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
SDR said:
wim can help you best with that matter.
It was Tony who did my fine tune mate :L I just had it done as I thought I had got the car sorted for winter and then I started getting this noise. Got him to have a look and it's me ball joint that's knackered! :eyesup:

I'm getting new tyres fitted when I've had it done so gonna keep an eye on the wear.

As for the N/S arm I'm gonna be stuck there as I will need to lift the carpet up so I can undo the rear subframe bolt (long story)!

When I replace the O/S side arm should I use new bolts, how much are these from Fords?

Cheers
 

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MEG Corporal
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801 Posts
i thought so(about Tony).
using new bolts is highly recommended, at least for your own peace of mind.
a bolt with a nut cost less than 2 quid.
unfortunately it looks like these cars can never be fixed entirely.
i have the full service history of mine since brand new and it has been in garage on average every 2 months(3k miles). :(
 

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MEG Captain
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4,819 Posts
good advice , and new locking nuts as well :L
 

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MEG Captain
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5,225 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Right I got the bits, new bolts and nuts as well.

The new arm has a white plastic cover around the ball joint. Is this to protect the rubber seal or has it gotta come off? Don't wanna remove it and I find it's suppose to be on there.

I know the nuts are self locking but should I use any loctite on them as well?

Cheers
 

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MEG Corporal
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801 Posts
transport white caps, you have to remove them to fit the arms, you'll find the balljoint quite stiff.
if the nuts are selflocking there is no need of anything more, check if they have plastic ring on the conned side and that's it.
good luck!
 

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MEG Captain
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5,225 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well it took me an hour and half, not bad since it's the first time I've done it. Bit of a git getting it out and the new one in! Just one question, the TIS says to do the bolts up to 50Nm, I did them to about 100, is this too much, should I loosen them?

Stopped my squeaking noise anyway but still got a knocking noise when pulling away turning right. I think it may be the CV joint now?!

SDR - I know what you mean about not fixing them entirely, noticed my rad is leaking when I was doing it! :eyesup:
 

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MEG Captain
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4,819 Posts
you have potentially overstressed the bolt , if it was me i would be fitting new bolts and torqueing them up to the correct value :thumbup:
 

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MEG Captain
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5,225 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Was the first bolt I did it too much on. Must've done it to 50 by hand and not realised when I put the torque wrench on. The other one clicked straight away so did it an extra 90 degrees like the TIS says. What happens if you do them too tight then?

Must be the same if you took your car to a garage for new tyres and they do the nuts up with a gun. Must be torqued a lot more than what's recommended, which I think is 80? If it was dangerous then why do so many garages do nuts up so tight, if it's gonna stress them...
 

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MEG Corporal
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801 Posts
i personaly always do them a bit more than the recommended, but read storys about sheared bolts as well(in this forum).
also last year there where 3 cars on the road in the area i live where something had went wrong with their wishbones one way or another(not ford makes).
so i am a bit caution about this overtighting.
 

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MEG Captain
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5,225 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
As I've only driven the car around the block since I did the nut up could I just undo it a little bit? If I did undo it a bit could this damage the locking nut though or make it not as effective? :confused:

I didn't replace the pinch bolt so am gonna get a new one next week but I'm getting paranoid about this now so may just get a new bolt and nut for peace of mind! :thumbup:

What gets me though is that I know a couple of people who don't bother with the correct torque settings. Just do them up nice and tight, that's what they say anyway!!
 

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MEG Corporal
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801 Posts
:laugh: :laugh: :laugh:
it was the same with me. funny i changed them and did'nt bother at all with the torque. after thet in the evening checked the forum i found out about the overtight and issues.
so the next morning 6:30 i was under the car to redo the torque and the bolts were not much far than teh recommended torque. in other words i undid them slightly and retorqued them and put a bit more.
so far they are fine.
it is up to you.
do them in a way you can drive and sleep without any remorses and feel confident that they are not going to fail(you).
 
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