I can see where the sticker used to be on the timing cover however seems to have worn away over time, the engines on 186k so I wouldn’t expect them to be original anyway. I heard you can get them from the QR code but it won’t scan so I’m unsure
you could try using a random code from another 701d injector for that one, code the other 3 in using the codes on the labels and the 1 random, you might be lucky in that after a few miles driving the ecu will compensate for it on the fly, then again you might not be lucky. I'd say its worth a shot tbh.
the only other way would be to give all 4 injectors to a Delphi specialist, they will put them on their machine and it will generate a new code for each injector then you can put those into the ecu. The codes on the injectors are from when the injector was new or refurbished but through time you get drift which means through wear and tear they will go out of tolerance of the original code, getting Delphi to generate a new code will mean that its in spec for how the injectors are right now.
I’ll give that a go thank you, weighing the costs of taking it Delphi could I not swap the one missing the code with another 701D. I bought the car as a project and it’s already had a massive chunk of cash from me to get it to this stage so I’m being a cheap skate now.
So the car ran alright for a bit, a little rattle from the injector with a faulty code but that’s it really. But after changing the code to a 701D injector as suggested seems to either be overfueling or underfueling it does both. It will eventually Cut out. I’m assuming it’s just a fuel trimming issue which will hopefully sort itself out after replacing the faulty injector
Return to your first post regarding flushing everything to ensure there is no swarf; did you clean the tank?
When my Mk3 TDCI threw up the relevant error codes, and I had to replace the pump and injectors, I also flushed everything and dropped the tank to clean inside and the swirl pot. There was swarf everywhere.
If a worn pump was the original problem and you did not clean the tank, I would take a guess that your problems will return.
So I cleaned all the lines and flushed the whole system and fitted a brand new Ford 2 micron filter. I assumed the filter would filter any swarf out but I think you’re correct that there’s still some getting through. No worries though I can have that work done fairly sharpish.
just read back the whole thread and you say there black smoke when idling and revving, you say the engine is rattling and hunts at idle and your now saying the inlet cam is very loose?
this is sounding to me like the engine might have jumped a couple of teeth on the inlet cam, and might have stripped the bolts holding the cam carrier on the head, or cracked the cam carrier. I've just done a transit timing chain because it jumped some teeth on the inlet cam due to a dodgy tensioner, put it all back together and its having the same symptoms as yours, my next job is to remove rocker cover and check the cam carrier for stripped bolts or cracks. If the bolts are stripped or the carrier is cracked this will make the cam loose as its that that holds it down and its always the inlet side that takes the brunt of it on these engine due to the way the chain wraps on the spockets, on the exhaust side the chain is around half the sprocket but on the inlet side its only on around 10 teeth so its the weak spot for it jumping.
Think you’re dead on, checked the cam bolts all were loose and the closet one to the crank was snapped. I found before that when I tightened the bolts the engine ran bang on. Obviously I couldn’t tighten the snapped one but before looking I assumed the thread was damaged. The Cam itself works fine
Am I looking at a new head or maybe just a set of bolts and helicoil will suffice. As I said when it’s tightened down it sounds and runs perfect but quickly become loose again and goes back to the usual state.
Funnily enough thought I got away without jumping a few teeth as the pump that broke was still freely spinning not seized at all.
its the tensioner that causes it to jump teeth, its a stupid little thing that relys on oil pressure to keep the chain tensioned, the problem mainly happens at startup, when you start the engine the tensioner relys on a ratchet mechanism until the oil pressure is enough to push the tensioner out and tension the chain, the old style of tensioner had a flap on the side and was notorious in the transit world for giving up and causing jumped teeth, the new style of tensioner doesnt have the flap and has a pawl that locks onto the tensioners ratchet teeth to stop it going back in so in theory should never get loose when theres no oil pressure.
if your engine has jumped teeth, its most likely going to need a new chain tensioner, maybe chain, guides and sprockets too. then if your saying the bolts wont stay tight in the cam carrier it could mean that its stripped out the aluminium threads in the head which would mean either helicoiling or a new head, if your able to helicoil the head then make sure you check the cam carrier for cracks as with these engines the valves come up and crack the cam carrier and sometimes strip the threads too, so its a process of checking everything and making sure before you go ahead. it might actually be easier to just find a new head for it as the head and cam carrier are line bored together so just plonking a new cam carrier on it could go one of 3 ways, it might lock up the cams because its too tight, it might be too loose, or it might work and all is good.
if you got it with a broken fuel pump that was supplying no pressure then the previous owner was most likely turning it over and over to try start it, maybe even tried bump starting which is known to cause timing chain jumps on these engines.
only you can decide if its worth it, £150 for a new timing chain kit, £50 for new timing cover and crank seal, whatever price you can get a head for and then whatever it costs for a head gasket set. if the car is in good condition then it might be worth saving.
they’re the ones that hold the cam carrier down onto the camshafts. They’re stretch bolts I’m fairly certain and need replacing as one of them snapped in the head as I said before. Getting an engineer out to drill and tap the hole. Then rebuilding the top end.