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Megger
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105 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
has anyone on this forum ever replaced the clutch assembly on a mk 2 manual mondeo? i was thinking of trying to do this myself but need to know the procedure in a list item by item as to how to do it can anybody help thanks .
 

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Big Megger
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260 Posts
I'm doing mine in a couple of weeks. To be honest you'd be better of investing in a Haynes manual for this job.
 

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Megger
Joined
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105 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'm doing mine in a couple of weeks. To be honest you'd be better of investing in a Haynes manual for this job.
yes i do have a haynes .it seems to be a little confusing on the procedures , what i need to know is what has to come off ,up to the point of dropping the subframe , then there is something about a lining up tool for the gearbox ,would be greatfull if you could give me the rundown
thanks
 

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Turbo'd ST24
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10,084 Posts
hi buddy, ive only done the clutch change on a st24 and on a bmw e36 but with any clutch you've gotta use the clutch alignment tool to make sure the clutch is centered as if its slightly off center, the input shaft on the gearbox which is the shaft that you will see sticking out of the bell housing will not line up or let the gearbox go through,

i would personally change the throw out release bearing whilst the gearbox is off with the clutch, you should get a new one with your kit but if you dont get one and install it, it will most likely be like the v6 gearbox held in by 3 bolts if i remember correctly and is fairly easy to install once the gearbox is off, but deff do it,

when refitting the gearbox, get the bolts in but do not tighten them up fully, make sure they all go in first then tighten them all up evenly so that the gearbox closes up properly and the bolts dont get put under strain, make sure to torque them up to the correct settings if i remember correctly which is a while ago when i did mine i think its 80nm that it needs to be torqued to,

good luck with it, i know its not a full how to but its off the top of my head, i hope you get do the change without too much problems all the best
 

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Registered
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2,822 Posts
I've done a few clutches but never used a bespoke alignment tool, just wrapped insulation tape around a ratchet handle or something until it is just thick enough to match the diameter on the hole in the centre of the clutch
 

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Super Moderator
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19,005 Posts
a haynes manual will have the how to in it, though like the gfb says insuletion tape round... will make a good alignment tool
 

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ST200 Limited Ghia X
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6,508 Posts
1. how long would it take you guys to do a v6 clutch?

2. and how long for someone whos not done it before(me)?

3. can it be done on the drive?

4. how much clearance do you need underneath? normal axle stands?

5. do you drop the gearbox out the bottom, yes? and if so, does it not weigh a ton and land in your face? haha

im asking because i may attempt my st24 clutch in a year or so, as it is nearing the end of its life.
 

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Big Megger
Joined
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260 Posts
I spoke to a mechanic at my local Ford centre and he said the best way to do the job is to remove the whole near side strut, take out the near side subframe bolts, undo the off side sub frame bolts but do not take out. Undo the pinch bolt on the bottom of the steering column and then angle the sub frame down on a jack and the gearbox will pull off into the wheel arch, no need to remove the whole sub frame. Make sure you stick something in the holes ontop of the radiator to hold it up.
 

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ST200 Limited Ghia X
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6,508 Posts
i reckon i could do that, but how heavy is a gearbox? is it a bit dangerous removing it?

 

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Super Moderator
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19,005 Posts
i reckon somewhere around 50kg ish. liftable but you won't be running round with it.
 

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Newbie
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6 Posts
Ive done it! Probably the worst job ive done took for ever and thought of giving up several times. Stuck with it and works fine and i know all 3 parts were changed and the job done properly. Now the list
You will need,
1 Most important, a mate who can lend moral and physical support and knows about cars. If the wife is the sort that complains every time you jack the car up dont bother.
2 One of those engine support thinks that go across the wings. (was luckly on this got a badly listed blue point one on ebay for £10)
3 Breaker bar for the 4 subframe bolts
4 ball joint tool for the track rod end
5 Selection of sockets and a quality 1/4 set for the clutch cover bolts.
6 Oil for gearbox, some debate on the web as what the spec is but I think I ended up with castrol from halfords, 2 litres £20?
7 Couple of trolley jacks would be nice.

The subframe bolts will need to be loosened or removed. The nuts for these are captive and you dont want to damage them or big problems. The 2 at the back are the worst. I would try injecting oil into the box section through the little hole several times the week before you do it to try to free them up.
You need to disconnect the steering rack from the column by undoing the clamp on the floor inside. Remove the washer bottle inside the drivers side wheel arch or the subframe will punch a hole through it . The rad needs to be free at the bottom. Use the engine support to take the weight of the engine and remove the front engine mounting (dont touch the bolt in the middle undo both ends). Remove the arch liner from the pass side and the whole strut. One nut at top and track rod and ball joint at bottom (use chisel to open up slot so ball joint disingages) Remove battery, coils, air box and other assorted rubbish that stop you getting at gearbox. Remove engine mount on pass side. Stick trolley jack under subframe and undo both bolts on pass side, undo front bolt on drivers side and remove it but ensure enough threads to hold subframe up. Undo back bolt drivers side just a couple of turns. Disconnect the gearbox linkage from the top of the gearbox, dont ask me how as its made of plastic and rubber clips and its sheer luck or experience if you manage without breaking anything. Disconnect the hydraulic hose to the clutch and plug it. Think i may have disconnected the heater hoses for more room.
Undo the bolts holding the gearbox to the engine (remove starter) Support the weight of the engine with engine support. Put another trolley jack under the gearbox and lower the subframe with the other trolley jack so it goes down on the pass side. Pull the gearbox away from the engine . Now you have to decide if you are doing a quick job or a proper job. If you do the quick job you can drop the plate out from between the cover and the flywheel by only moving the gearbox back enought to allow this. If you do the proper job it will have to go back further to allow the cover to be replaced. You will be able to jam it betwen the dropped subframe and the wheel arch.
Clutch plate alignment do you need a tool, well i could not fit mine in! So i decided to do it like the pros and you know what its easy. Thats because the old plate polishes the flywheel where it touches and you just match the new plate up so it covers the polished bit. It helps that the mondeo does not have a sprigot bearing in the centre of the flywheel so the splined shaft goes in easy if you rotate the box as you mate it up. Stuff it all back together in reverse order and bleed the clutch if you fitted a new release bearing. Dont forget to refill the gearbox with oil!!
It was 2 years ago when I did this so i may have forgotten some of it. Yes and it does look like a big job if you are not regular mechanic who does them all the time and can get it done in 3 hours but it didnt cost me £350 plus and i know the quality of the parts i put in.
 

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Megger
Joined
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105 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
right heres the update,ive chickened out of doing the job myself,its not that i could not do the job,but all things considered its seems its going to be a pain in the arse to do.
so i got on the phone and rang loads of local garages for a quote.
and prices varied a lot most quoted around £500 all in ,but ive managed to get one locally a good mechanic who has done these clutches before ,he is going to do it for £400,thats using a LUK kit including slave cylinder and new gearbox oil
But i have to say how shocked i was when i rang ford for thier quote £750 !!!!!!!! i nearly fell over it seems they dont need the work quoting those prices.
ill update when the work is done
del
 

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Megger
Joined
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105 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
right heres the update,ive chickened out of doing the job myself,its not that i could not do the job,but all things considered its seems its going to be a pain in the arse to do.
so i got on the phone and rang loads of local garages for a quote.
and prices varied a lot most quoted around £500 all in ,but ive managed to get one locally a good mechanic who has done these clutches before ,he is going to do it for £400,thats using a LUK kit including slave cylinder and new gearbox oil
But i have to say how shocked i was when i rang ford for thier quote £750 !!!!!!!! i nearly fell over it seems they dont need the work quoting those prices.
ill update when the work is done
del
well
picked up the car today, job done took the garage two days as the parts people sent the wrong clutch,but what a difference the new clutch makes its nice and smooth on the pedal now and clutch very grabby ,all fine .
del
 

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Joined
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451 Posts
i reckon somewhere around 50kg ish. liftable but you won't be running round with it.
nowhere near 50kg, we changed my clutch when the engine was out, picked the gearboxup and took it into the garage without breaking sweat and i only wieght 60kg!
 

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Super Moderator
Joined
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19,005 Posts
i reckon somewhere around 50kg ish. liftable but you won't be running round with it.
nowhere near 50kg, we changed my clutch when the engine was out, picked the gearboxup and took it into the garage without breaking sweat and i only wieght 60kg!
[/quote]

was only a speculative guess, hence the 'ish' i would rather post quite heavy and then someone find its not than say it weighs nothing and someone to struggle to lift it. Having not had one on scales, i wouldn't know. I've a block to strip at some point, i'll weigh the box and post it then to see how out i was.
 

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Big Daddy
Joined
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662 Posts
i reckon somewhere around 50kg ish. liftable but you won't be running round with it.
nowhere near 50kg, we changed my clutch when the engine was out, picked the gearboxup and took it into the garage without breaking sweat and i only wieght 60kg!
[/quote]

You manual gearbox people are so lucky, i'm just about to change my autobox and that weighs in at over 80kg!
 

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Super Moderator
Joined
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19,005 Posts
i reckon somewhere around 50kg ish. liftable but you won't be running round with it.
nowhere near 50kg, we changed my clutch when the engine was out, picked the gearboxup and took it into the garage without breaking sweat and i only wieght 60kg!
[/quote]

You manual gearbox people are so lucky, i'm just about to change my autobox and that weighs in at over 80kg!

[/quote]

I was even luckier, free clutch and free change
 

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Registered
Joined
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4 Posts
Ive done it! Probably the worst job ive done took for ever and thought of giving up several times. Stuck with it and works fine and i know all 3 parts were changed and the job done properly. Now the list
You will need,
1 Most important, a mate who can lend moral and physical support and knows about cars. If the wife is the sort that complains every time you jack the car up dont bother.
2 One of those engine support thinks that go across the wings. (was luckly on this got a badly listed blue point one on ebay for £10)
3 Breaker bar for the 4 subframe bolts
4 ball joint tool for the track rod end
5 Selection of sockets and a quality 1/4 set for the clutch cover bolts.
6 Oil for gearbox, some debate on the web as what the spec is but I think I ended up with castrol from halfords, 2 litres £20?
7 Couple of trolley jacks would be nice.

The subframe bolts will need to be loosened or removed. The nuts for these are captive and you dont want to damage them or big problems. The 2 at the back are the worst. I would try injecting oil into the box section through the little hole several times the week before you do it to try to free them up.
You need to disconnect the steering rack from the column by undoing the clamp on the floor inside. Remove the washer bottle inside the drivers side wheel arch or the subframe will punch a hole through it . The rad needs to be free at the bottom. Use the engine support to take the weight of the engine and remove the front engine mounting (dont touch the bolt in the middle undo both ends). Remove the arch liner from the pass side and the whole strut. One nut at top and track rod and ball joint at bottom (use chisel to open up slot so ball joint disingages) Remove battery, coils, air box and other assorted rubbish that stop you getting at gearbox. Remove engine mount on pass side. Stick trolley jack under subframe and undo both bolts on pass side, undo front bolt on drivers side and remove it but ensure enough threads to hold subframe up. Undo back bolt drivers side just a couple of turns. Disconnect the gearbox linkage from the top of the gearbox, dont ask me how as its made of plastic and rubber clips and its sheer luck or experience if you manage without breaking anything. Disconnect the hydraulic hose to the clutch and plug it. Think i may have disconnected the heater hoses for more room.
Undo the bolts holding the gearbox to the engine (remove starter) Support the weight of the engine with engine support. Put another trolley jack under the gearbox and lower the subframe with the other trolley jack so it goes down on the pass side. Pull the gearbox away from the engine . Now you have to decide if you are doing a quick job or a proper job. If you do the quick job you can drop the plate out from between the cover and the flywheel by only moving the gearbox back enought to allow this. If you do the proper job it will have to go back further to allow the cover to be replaced. You will be able to jam it betwen the dropped subframe and the wheel arch.
Clutch plate alignment do you need a tool, well i could not fit mine in! So i decided to do it like the pros and you know what its easy. Thats because the old plate polishes the flywheel where it touches and you just match the new plate up so it covers the polished bit. It helps that the mondeo does not have a sprigot bearing in the centre of the flywheel so the splined shaft goes in easy if you rotate the box as you mate it up. Stuff it all back together in reverse order and bleed the clutch if you fitted a new release bearing. Dont forget to refill the gearbox with oil!!
It was 2 years ago when I did this so i may have forgotten some of it. Yes and it does look like a big job if you are not regular mechanic who does them all the time and can get it done in 3 hours but it didnt cost me £350 plus and i know the quality of the parts i put in.
this was a great help mate .clutch done pretty much as you said ere .car ok for 24 hours but then started makin a funny clickin sound turn left stopped car had a look underneith but nothin to see so carried on home .parked up and notice a trail of fluid down the road and a puddle undernieth so investigated and i think its transmission oil from gear box so checked drive shafts in case i didnt insert it properly when doin the clutch but both are bone dry.so went for a spin round block to get it drippin again but car cut out and now wont start any ideas ?
 

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Newbie
Joined
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6 Posts
If you have checked the drive shafts and nothing is coming from them I would look at the following next

The clutch bearing is hydraulically operated and i think the pipe is held in with some sort of crappy ford clip. I seem to remember not putting it right and the next day it was leaking and I had to redo it.

You say knocking noise and turning left, I hope you did not put the bolt in the left-hand suspension arm upside down. If you did and the threaded part was sticking up it can punch a hole through the gearbox casing and the fluid would be running out and the gearbox would be scrap. I would check this first to make sure.

If its neither of these the next place i would check would be the washer bottle under the drivers front wing as i seem to remember that something moves up when you are messing with the clutch and nearly goes through the bottle.

What sort of knocking noise was it? Driving, braking turning left or right. Mines made clonking noises all the time ive had it! These are usually to do with rubber bonded parts which can fail if old and put under stress when doing a clutch change. Inspect engine mountings , wishbone rubbers and the anti-roll bar rubbers front and rear.

Hope you get it sorted after all that work!
 

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Newbie
Joined
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6 Posts
Missed the cut out wont start bit! Are we talking turn key and nothing or turn key starter turns does not fire up?
Remember you had a lot of stuff off to do the clutch and you will have to recheck all the connections like battery, starter cables earthing points. This is a 10 year old car and many of the electrical connections will have some corrosion its easy for them to not be making contact. Did you put all the bolts back in the same places as some of them are different lengths around the gearbox.
 
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