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With `06 Mondeo ABS dash lamp now on for months, time to investigate. I spent my early years as auto elect. & over the years have tried to keep up to date with car systems. Web Info for this fault has been minimal and confusing , hence reason for post.

When ign. key turned on ABS lamp should come on, then after completion of ABS system test, which includes testing all wheel sensors, lamp should go off after approx 5 seconds. If test detects a faulty sensor or circuit wiring then lamp stays on and this seems to be a common fault.

Early Fords use a coil & magnet type wheel sensor and they can be tested using an electrical ohm / volt meter. With road wheel off, unplug wheel sensor plug and connect ohm meter to sensor, reading for good sensor approx 1000-3000 ohms. High readings or open circuit indicate duff sensor. (If any sign of corrosion in connector spray in WD40 or similar electrical contact cleaner)

Spinning wheel hub should give 0.3-2.0 volts AC at sensor terminals. Later Fords, including my `06, use active sensors which have built in electronics and cannot easily be tested. One option is `Fault Code Reader` but these can be expensive. Wheel sensors are cheap (approx £8 on line) but not sure if you can just plug a new one into each wheel connector to find faulty one? ... Already fitted new sensor before I thought of this, maybe another member can answer ?. I finally used a code reader to find `front LH wheel sensor faulty`.

Trying to get faulty sensor out was a PITA , corroded in by rust etc WD40 no good. Not wishing to remove driveshaft / steering knuckle etc I decided on drilling out faulty sensor as follows.

Remove caliper bolts & remove & tie up caliper. Remove disc. Remove sensor Torx securing bolt. If sensor is seized in use pliers or similar with a back & forward twisting action. It will probably break off flush with knuckle casting but this will make drilling out easier. Drilling out the plastic sensor is fairly straightforward, start with a 2mm drill in centre of sensor, then increase drill size up to 8mm. Drill down to approx 15mm .You will then be left with the remaining tip of the sensor, loose in the knuckle sensor hole, which can be picked out with slim long nosed pliers.

I then used a vaccuum cleaner hose with small neoprene tube taped to end to suck bits of debris dust out of sensor hole.

Fitted new sensor, switched on ignition, and light off after 5 seconds. .... Jobs a good un.
 

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F-Super approx £10, so not expensive and will tell you which sensor is throwing

the fault code, well worth the money. They can pay for themselves very quickly

especially if you have to pay a garage £20/£40+ to read a code.
 

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We are quite lucky really in that we can get pretty good diagnostics for not a lot of money. My daughter's Peugeot doesnt have an equivalent of f_super/forscan, you need afaict a package more akin to fordiag pricing, but which appears to be a ripoff clone of real diagnostic system. Powerful, but unlike fordiag using cracked software.

Not tried a self contained scanner on it, but abs and srs lights are back.
One of my pet hates is systems that flash a little light that says youve got a fault, and i know exactly what it is, but youre not to be trusted with that information/thAt represents an opportunity to make money out of you/system designer cba to write a few lines of code to drive a display so im not telling you. At least mandatory obd support gives some level of standardised access to pollution control related data, so any garage can fix it. Personally id like that same level of protection relating to systems that protect the people in and around the vehicle as well as the environment. Rant over.. for now...
 
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