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Little Megger
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61 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a Mondeo 1.8TD 1995 that was serviced six months ago. When cold, the motor starts easy with normal noise, but after 2-3 to 10-15 seconds (it is irregular) it start knocking, the rpm drop and there is a lack of power. Accelerating to 1500-2000rpm and the knocking almost go way. The knocking start to soften as the motor get warmer.
 

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Megger
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164 Posts
Just sounds like std diesel knock, which gets worse when the engines under some sort of load.

Have you got the A/C on ? Or if not selected, perhaps the a/c pump is still active due to a clutch/electrical fault.

That saps about 20% of the engine power.

Or is there a major electrical load coming on just after starting making the alternator work hard, like HRW or HFS.
 

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Sir,Ur engine knocking is not that bad.but there few things to check 1.Timing 2. Auxillary shaft play 3. Oil pump pressure 4.Bearing nip and lastly Electrical load or loose alternator belt which cause engine to work hard.The tappet noise is mostly done by less oil pressure from engine. My engine was soundng like yours.bt when i strip it i got one Big end bearing worn.Remember the gap between crank shaft and Big ends or Main shaft bearings [bearing nip] determines the oil pressure being forced up to top through oil channels.one bearing being worn or loose will cause oil to leak between Crank and bearing which reduces oil pressure needed on top by the tappets and start to make funny noise.
 

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Little Megger
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61 Posts
First thanks all for your replies.
I wouldn't worry, even modern diesel engines sound crap and tractory, and the old Endura 1.8 wasn't exactly a good one by any standards.
thegfb - Yes, but my engine was running fine for 250 000km (155300mile) and I would like to keep it. Even now the oil level don't drop a ml between changes (over 10 000km - 6200 miles). This car is very reliable and robust, I would like to keep it for another 17 years and 250 000km, although I have now a 2.5T which is more fun to drive, etc., etc., but with the 1.8TD I can go outside the tarmac roads and use it "almost" like a 4x4. Its seemed that it would never die and now I'm am a bit concerned. This is not a rational thing...

well, think my problem is that the Ford dealer changed last year, since the problems start almost at the same time and with the change of the distribution belt. They know how to solve problems with the electronic alerts, but they don't have old school mechanics. Just after the change there was a lot of black smoke, then they try to solve it working in injection pump. The smoke decreased slightly, the power also, the noise start. One of these days I put my hand on cable going to the injection pump, try to move it gentle, I ear a "click" and after that the smoke almost gone and the power came back (I don't know why). See picture for the cable, it is not my motor but similar, my doesn't have shok absorber. But at the same time I clean the air filter, which was not very dirty, but with this mistake (doing two things at the same time) I am not sure who was the culprit, but I am more to the cable.
So I feel that timing will be my best shot and finding an old endura mechanic if they don't solve my problem. I want the motor working like a clock.
I will post the developments.

Again thanks to all

 

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Super Moderator
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have you tried bypassing the egr valve? (if applicable) might help with the smoking.
 

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Little Megger
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61 Posts
In MK1 the EGR valve is not very accessible, so I ask the Ford dealer to see if it was ok with the EGR. They say that was checked and nothing was wrong.
I also checked and cleaned the MAF sensor (it 's easy) but nothing was altered. The smoke just diminished after I move the cable and cleaned the air filter, but I think it was not the air filter since it was not more dirty then usual.
 

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In MK1 the EGR valve is not very accessible, so I ask the Ford dealer to see if it was ok with the EGR. They say that was checked and nothing was wrong.
I also checked and cleaned the MAF sensor (it 's easy) but nothing was altered. The smoke just diminished after I move the cable and cleaned the air filter, but I think it was not the air filter since it was not more dirty then usual.
usually you can just disconnect the egr vacuum pipe and bung up the hole with a bolt (m6 thread). Ford won't probably do that for you, but its easy to do yourself.
 

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Little Megger
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61 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ok I think that the problem is the cam belt. When the former ford dealer closed and I change to the new one, the cam belt was changed (240 000km) as posted before.
I have just speak with a mechanic that serviced my car in the former ford dealer for almost 16 years and he said that they should have done something wrong when changing the belt since it just happen the same problem with other 1.8TD Mondeo with the same history. So I think that M.E Ncalana had a bullseye when wrote: "Sir,Ur engine knocking is not that bad.but there few things to check 1.Timing"
I think that because the timing was not correct and was not corrected, when they try to solve the problem working in the fuel pump, just made things worst. I think that this is a prof of the robustness of this engine. Perhaps they forgot that when changing the belt two "pins" (twist drills) are required to time the camshaft and the injection pump so that they don´t move in the meantime.
When I have the full diagnostic I will post it.
 

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Little Megger
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61 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Evolution:

Time belt changed, valves checked to see if there was some damage (good condition), motor timing set.
The car is now more smother when cold, a big difference in power at low revs (below 2500rpm) I don´t remember to have so many horses under my foot at low revs, no smoke at low revs.
Still "a lot" of smoke in high revs, special when pushing hard, I don't see many differences in power in high revs. Lack of air reaching the engine?
Regarding the EGR I will do the test my self, since even the mechanic that is now working in the car didn't seem to want to see the EGR.
Since I need to take the intercooler to reach the EGR, is it worth to clean the intercooler? I have seen doing that with fuel (diesel).
 

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Little Megger
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For now I have just bypass the egr valve. I put a M5 Bolt in the end of the tube that was connected to the EGR, then I use a 5cm (2") aquarium tube to put in the EGR hole/tube and in the other end of the aquarium tube I put a M3 bolt to close it. It's a slightly different solution but everything ended very tight. I did it without the need of taking the intercooler apart. It seems that the smoke is now less, but I have to make more km with the car.
I have already found EGR for sale in the internet but not the gasket, does any one know where can I get it?
 

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Little Megger
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61 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
After four months and ±2000km (1242 miles) the log:
I have been putting 2T oil with diesel (6ml to 1gallon or 6ml to 3,78L or 79ml to 50L), some say that adds sulfur which act as lubricant (as lead in petrol engines) in this old engines. At least the car is now very smooth the knocking is gone. After the mechanical revision (post 11 March 2012) almost gone, and now definitively gone - sulfur?
The black smoke persists even with the EGR blocked.
Between 1200 rpm to 2000rpm if I press the throttle slightly to gain speed (not all the way down). To avoid smoke I have two option press the throttle as if I had an egg bellow my foot or change gear down to put the revs higher. The other occasion is when the turbo starts kicking, but after a while the smoke is gone even if then I press the throttle all the way down.
My mechanic said that is go testing the injectors. I mention MAF, but he is reluctant to test it, saying that he will need another MAF to change and see if it is alright. I have already clean the MAF, with no improves. I disconnect the MAF and see no changes.
I have seen some MAF testing but nothing about the 1.8TD. How can I do it? The wires are covered how can I reach them with the multimeter? Sorry about being so be so dumb.
Thank for all the support, I want to keep this car running.
 

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that is "the cowboy" method, but yes you can, just wrap a little insulation tape around the hole you make, to keep the wet out.


usually, no difference or improvement means faulty maf, if it runs worse with it disconnected, its working.
 
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