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Little Megger
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69 Posts
Afternoon all!

So this morning, upon starting my trusty (and now ageing) 2005 Mondeo 2.2 TDCi Ghia X, I noticed that the battery warning lamp stayed lit. The car now has 121K miles on the clock and is still on the original alternator, so I guess it hasn't done too badly.

On the last couple of mornings I've started the car, I noticed a kind of 'bearing grinding' sound, the origin of which I couldn't trace - although I thought that it was possibly the interior fan. I now know that it's nothing of the sort!

Realising that I was - in all probability - now driving on the battery, I continued on the 30-odd mile trip to work, during which time the battery warning indicator stayed illuminated the whole time. During the journey I switched off the ignition and restarted the engine once or twice, whereby the battery light would stay out initially, only to reappear a few seconds later.

By the time I arrived at work, I couldn't fail to miss the smell of burning as I entered the underground car park. I shopped around on the Internet for alternators, noting that a genuine Ford one - part number F1478608 - was a mere £224 inc VAT. Oh, the joy.

The built-in instrument cluster diagnostics showed that the battery voltage was 11.9V (ignition on, no engine), and around 12.8V with the engine running. I concluded that the alternator was indeed 'goosed'. I then took a trip to my Dealer, ordered the required parts (including new auxiliary belt and alternator mounting bolts) and returned to work. This time, the smell of burning was strong enough to warrant an inspection, so I lifted the bonnet and had a look. The alternator was red hot - too hot to touch, in fact. For those who are interested, the original is manufactured by Visteon.

I am of the opinion that the existing alternator is still providing some output - at least, for the moment. Let's hope that I can make it home on the battery tonight (another 30 miles) and then get the new alternator fitted tomorrow.

There must be something about alternators dying on Mondeos, as this is now the second Mondeo on which I've had to replace the alternator. Still, it's an improvement on my last car - a 2.0 Ghia X (petrol), which only made it to around the 45K mile mark, before the (Bosch) alternator let go.

Regards,

Alan.
 

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Super Moderator
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30,342 Posts
Its getting on for 8 years old and had a hard life with heated front and rear screens powering
up everytime the temperature dropped.

I hate that on mine. It was chilly yesterday but all dry, Start the car and screens auto switch on.

GET OFF i don't need them....
 

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Super Moderator
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30,342 Posts
Whats wrong with it? Windings burnt out or the rectifier pack or other?

Its a lot easier and probably cheaper to replace the whole unit.
 

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Megger
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77 Posts
hi purple.. to be honnest im not sure whats wrong... the car was stationary for about 2 months but i was starting it up every 3 days or so.. i started it up & noticed that the battey light was on but it didnt come on straight away say after 20 seconds or so.. The battery is 6 months old too so cant be the battery its a bosch s4 model. So ive been charging the battery up so i can start the car every 3 days...the alternator just not charging it up.. Also noticed that the front heated screen will not work but will during the 20 seconds of starting it up.. I used to hear the alternotor charging with the distinctive pitched noise when under load. so im looking to remove it and change the bits inside it
 

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Super Moderator
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30,342 Posts
Just buy another one. 2nd hand one if funds are tight. Few members on here breaking cars.

Unless you have the equipment to test the electrical side and tools to fit the bearings etc.
Its probably not worth it.
 

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MK3 dabbler
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305 Posts
Had the same issue a few weeks back at almost the same mileage! I only did 10-15 miles with the light on - planning to sort it out when I got there, but as I arrived my combusted in the engine bay!! I got the fire out and got the alternator replaced, not Ford but a good alternative with new belt etc for £200 fitted.
 
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Having just had the same alternator experience as the people above -I see that some vendors in ebay offer an alternator replacement with a "clutch pulley" -for people with MK3 TDCi engines which come as standard without the clutch pulley (perhaps other mondeo models do as well I'm not sure) then this is a great upgrade. I had manually done the upgrade to the clutch pulley on my mk3 Tdci 2.0, but now my alternator is grinding, I believe the internal alternator bearings are kaput - so I am replacing it with the alternator off ebay with the clutch pulley already fitted. Just for ease of swap over (and also just in case the alternator's internal bearing failure has impacted on the clutch pulley that I fitted). The difference in idle turn-over is really noticeable-much smoother/quieter, also I believe that the pulley will elongate the lives of the serpentine belt(fan belt) components- i.e pulleys, crankshaft pulley and spring tensioner.

That said you do need some time to remove and replace the alternator on the diesel mk3. The job is a bit of a chore (there's a sticky on the mondeo mk3 section of the forum) -but perhaps purchase the upgraded part yourself and let the local garage fit it if you don't fancy the fitting.
 

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292 Posts
I recently fitted a clutch pulley to a good used alternator I got off eBay.

3E625800-99EF-4698-BBEA-C84E3D8EE92F.jpg

5F4722C8-57C7-449E-9E8A-68E0DA6535C8.jpg

Tbh I done it all from above and it wasn't too bad, you need the aux belt tensioner tool or a good home made one.

Disconnect battery, slacken the belt off, removed turbo heat shield for better access and also the black suspension strut support that bolts between the wing and the bulkhead.

Once they are off you take the fuel filter off and put safely to one side, cover up the fuel filter pipes and pull off the round part of the fuel filter housing (held in by push in clips)

Remove the black air duct off alternator, held on by 4 X 8mm nuts iirc, remove the battery cable and the smart charge connector, unbolt alternator and pull up through the top.

All in all about 30-40 minutes refit the same as removal, re prime fuel filter even if not been replaced and that's it.

I can now put front and rear screen on and hit the max button and not get a smart charge fault come up ????

Oh and I did have to grind the alternator chassis to fit the pulley even though it was specified on here that it should work without grinding, not a major task though and could be done with simple hand tools.
 
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