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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Mondeo MK3 2.0 16V 2005 146Hk
Stopped the car to unload stuff in the trunk, started 2 min later and drove 5 meters when it stopped and wont start again.
Cranks but wont start.
I´m thinking fuelpump or ignition.
Changed coilpack but same problem.
Anyone got any idéas?
Got the following codes.
I cleared the codes and now I only get P1000 "Monitor checks not completed - More driving ReQuired", probably since the car docent start.

Car Scanner ELM OBD2
DTC report
Selected brand: Ford

============1==============
P0015(93)
Raw code: 001593
ECU: Engine control unit[Archive (inactive)]
Status: Test failed since last DTC clear
OBDII: Camshaft position (CMP) actuator, exhaust/right/rear, bank 1 - timing over-retarded
============2==============
P0123
Raw code: 0123
ECU: Engine control unit
Status: Pending
OBDII: Throttle position (TP) switch A/accelerator pedal position (APP) switch A - high input
Ford: TP Sensor A Circuit High Input
============3==============
P0301
Raw code: 0301
ECU: Engine control unit
Status: Confirmed
OBDII: Cylinder 1 - misfire detected
Ford: Cylinder #1 Misfire Detected
============4==============
P1693
Raw code: 1693
ECU: Engine control unit
Status: Confirmed
OBDII: Turbo Charge Control Circuit Malfunction
Ford: Turbo Charge Control Circuit Malfunction
 

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Mk3 4 LYFE
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369 Posts
That you received a Turbocharger malfunction on a naturally aspirated car makes me think something electrical is haywire. The first thing to do in those circumstances are check the battery, and fuses. Sounds simple but often ECUs start throwing spurious errors if the voltage they are running on gets a bit low. Seen it many times on all sorts of cars. A weak battery which drops too low during cranking. Engine might start but with myraid fault codes. Try a known good battery. Leave the battery disconnected for a bit while changing them over to give the ECU some time to reset. A few minutes should be enough. Once it's back in, test EVERY fuse. Blown fuses can have some very strange effects on these cars.

If you're still having trouble, then there's a lot more testing that can be done at various connection points.

Don't just blindly change coil packs either. They can often fail for a reason. Check the spark plug gaps!

The timing aspect of the first code is concerning though. If the timing chain has snapped or slipped then that could explain it. I'd do a compression test while checking the plugs, just to be sure. It doesn't explain the other faults though. The code doesn't make much sense, there is no cam position actuator on these cars either!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for your input (y)
Changed the battery about 4 month ago so its probably not the problem.
Checked all fuses and they look alright.
Changed fuelfilter today, didn't help but almost sure its fuel thats the problem, took the incoming hose and put it in a bottle and cranked the engine but no fuel made it to the bottle. Is the a easy way to diagnose the fuel pump on these cars?
 

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Mk3 4 LYFE
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369 Posts
You'll want to check that power is actually making it to the fuel pump. The ECU is able to turn it on and off, so if it isn't powering it on, you won't have any fuel.

There is a cover under the rear seat which you can pop off and gain access near to the fuel pump. It doesn't properly line up enough that you can actually remove the fuel pump, but you might be able to use it to get to the wires to test with a multimeter.

I've never had that cover off, but I think I've seen a picture of someone getting to wires from there. Make sure you test the pump power wires and not the tank level sensor ones. If there is a thickness difference, the pump wires will be the thicker ones.
 
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