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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Had this crop up today

Car displayed the orange engine fault warning and lot up the eml also cut out but started up straight away
Checked the codes and this is the only one showing up related to. An overspeed seemingly car had had an easy day no harsh driving so seems strange?

Reset and was fine for 40 miles then same again cut out started fine and fault code present again

Reset again another 30 miles and same again

Odd thing though the car seems to pull better with the eml on ?????

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Strange. Usually when this comes up, someone has smashed it into a low gear at a rather high speed, this allowing the engine to exceed the Rev limit.

Sometimes that can cause major damage, other times not.

It doesn't sound like that's happened or you would have said. I stead it may be a problem with any component that the car/computer uses to calculate rpm.

From memory, that would be cam sensor, crank sensor on a modern car in most cases. Older cars would have something mechanical somewhere u guess like the gearbox.

Maybe someone has experienced this before? Hopefully they'll post.

I'd be having a poke around the cam and crank sensors and checking the wiring first, if it's an intermittent fault. Seems weird it would run better after the code is triggered.

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Still having issues

Replaced both cam and crank sensors this morning and reset

Car cut out 3 times on a 50mph journey fine at 50-70 but cut out only when slowing down at junctions or roundabouts

Decided to test a theory and gave it an Italian tuneup on the way back no issues or cutting out

Any thoughts?

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Hmm... Got me stumped.

My car has issues with cutting out on approaching junctions etc when dipping the clutch and when cold backing out of parking spaces. This is due to a firmware issue in early cars, and has no associated fault codes stored. This is obviously very different as it's happening while you're driving.

I'm trying to rationalise what other components or sensors are able to shut the car down in such a way.

Maybe a wiring issue somewhere in the loom for the cam and crank sensors. I'm sure a fault with maf, map or iat sensors would just put the car into limp home mode rather than cut the engine.

This may be a job for some good monitoring software set to record sensor outputs. Perhaps this will reveal what is going on. Something like Fordiag would be best on a Mk4 I believe.

Are you familiar with the term "freeze frame data"? Do you have the ability to view it, if any is stored? It will reveal exact rpm, engine speed, engine temp as well as some sensor data (depends on the car) at the exact point the code was set.

Freeze frame is awesome for trouble shooting sometimes. I've used it a lot to tell the difference between a dirty maf sensor and a vacuum leak causing lean codes etc in my old petrol car. Never seen what kind of data the mk4/4.5 gives out, fortunately I've not had any fault codes that have lit the eml.

Hopefully there is freeze frame data for you to look at, which would be great if it had sensor data such as maf, map, iat, cam crank and fuel rail pressure. Maybe even turbo stuff.

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Had a similar issue with a 20004avensis 2.0d4d . Drive it hardish with no problems but drive it gently it would cut out when it wasn't under load, dealer had it numerous times, new egr , maf, etc but no cure. Eventually I got a suction control valve from a Delphi dealer... No more problems

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It's the lambda sensor mine was coming up with this code and cutting out spent 1700 changing sensors everywhere in the end as a last resort and at 1.00 per min rang ford technical support and they told me to replace worked a treat no problems at all now hope this helps
 

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Just an update on this, had the codes read with some decent freeze frame software and showed up lambda sensor 1 as well as p0219, my cheap reader only showed p0219.Changed lambda for Bosch unit £130 and touch wood seems to have fixed this problem.
Lambda 1 is the one which plugs in on top of engine.
So good advice from crofty????
 

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Crofty your a genius. I have recently bought a galaxy 60 plate tit x 2.0 tdci that was cutting out but only a few times a day and only when approaching islands etc after mid to higher speeds . I had exactly the same symptoms as above. After cheap reader only showed 1 code I changed the crank sensor and while waiting for for it to arrive I read this forum I knew from reading this it would be that O2 sensor so to be more sure I downloaded forscan software onto my laptop and bought the gadget to fit into the obdII port it also showed the bank 1 sensor 1 fault so I purchased that sensor and hey presto. I would like to thank everyone on this forum and I'd gladly buy those involved in this post a pint or 2 or 3 thank you everyone
 
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