My mondy 3 tdci was leaking at union nut. Initially I thought pump was leaking and bought a new pump. Tried to undo pump delivery top 18mm nut from larger 22mm nut but no joy and started rounding nut. ( other threads say use an 18mm croefoot spanner). Because I had bought a new pump i undid the larger 22mm union nut from old pump. Now I had the pipe off the pump but how to separate the two nuts? I used a 4.5 " angle grinder to cut a slit along the 22mm larger nut, taking care not to damage the 18mm nut and especially the pipe. ( new pipe sections - 1S7C3A719FM - are in short supply and expensive, £200-300 ) . With slit along 22mm nut it then parted easily from the 18mm nut. A new Ford 18mm union nut was purchased on line (£9). Now how to remove the old 18mm nut from hydraulic pipe.?
These nuts have an internal rubber oil seal near spanner end of nut. THese nuts are held captive on the hydraulic pipe by an internal circlip and once fitted to pipe cannot normally be removed. I removed the old union nut and fitted the new nut by the following method. I placed a wooden work board across top of engine and sat a small bench vice on board . I then clamped the nut, with trailing pipe, in the vice. Position of the locking circlip inside the nut is 5-6mm from pump end of nut. I then put small piece of neoprene tube on flared end of pipe to protect it. I then used a small file to file the threads down flat all round nut and 5-7 mm from nut face. Then I used a small Dremel hobbyist drill with small grindinding wheel (20mm) to gently grind the area 5 -6mm from nut face until the circlip was visible. ( coppery colour). Once the circlip was visible continued grinding around the nut following the circlip. When the groove created reaches full circle the pump end piece of nut will fall off. The circlip can then be removed with a small screwdriver and then the other piece of union nut will slide off pipe. I achieved this with no damage to pipe, took about 45minutes.
My Haynes manual says 18mm nut should be torqued to 56Nm. I then fitted new nut( with teflon washer ) into 22mm union on new pump and torqued up. Old hydraulic delivery pipe was then pushedhard into new nut on pump until it "clicked" Click indicates that pipe flare shoulder has locked into position passed the circlip. New nut now locked on and will not come off pipe. After flushing old fluid from rack and refilling system with new fluid job done.
(easy flush by temp moving steering fluid bottle return line to small waste container.)
Hi folks, just been having a fight with my power steering pump!! managed to get everything off except the high pressure union! It looks like its been put back on wi ptfe tape and possibly cross-threaded! It won't budge at all, tried mole grips on it wi someone else holding the spanner!
I'm stuck as to what to do next!
Am I gonna have to cut it off and replace the whole pipe back to the steering gear?
Car is an 04 tdci estate.
My mondy 3 tdci was leaking at union nut. Initially I thought pump was leaking and bought a new pump. Tried to undo pump delivery top 18mm nut from larger 22mm nut but no joy and started rounding nut. ( other threads say use an 18mm croefoot spanner). Because I had bought a new pump i undid the larger 22mm union nut from old pump. Now I had the pipe off the pump but how to separate the two nuts? I used a 4.5 " angle grinder to cut a slit along the 22mm larger nut, taking care not to damage the 18mm nut and especially the pipe. ( new pipe sections - 1S7C3A719FM - are in short supply and expensive, £200-300 ) . With slit along 22mm nut it then parted easily from the 18mm nut. A new Ford 18mm union nut was purchased on line (£9). Now how to remove the old 18mm nut from hydraulic pipe.?
These nuts have an internal rubber oil seal near spanner end of nut. THese nuts are held captive on the hydraulic pipe by an internal circlip and once fitted to pipe cannot normally be removed. I removed the old union nut and fitted the new nut by the following method. I placed a wooden work board across top of engine and sat a small bench vice on board . I then clamped the nut, with trailing pipe, in the vice. Position of the locking circlip inside the nut is 5-6mm from pump end of nut. I then put small piece of neoprene tube on flared end of pipe to protect it. I then used a small file to file the threads down flat all round nut and 5-7 mm from nut face. Then I used a small Dremel hobbyist drill with small grindinding wheel (20mm) to gently grind the area 5 -6mm from nut face until the circlip was visible. ( coppery colour). Once the circlip was visible continued grinding around the nut following the circlip. When the groove created reaches full circle the pump end piece of nut will fall off. The circlip can then be removed with a small screwdriver and then the other piece of union nut will slide off pipe. I achieved this with no damage to pipe, took about 45minutes.
My Haynes manual says 18mm nut should be torqued to 56Nm. I then fitted new nut( with teflon washer ) into 22mm union on new pump and torqued up. Old hydraulic delivery pipe was then pushedhard into new nut on pump until it "clicked" Click indicates that pipe flare shoulder has locked into position passed the circlip. New nut now locked on and will not come off pipe. After flushing old fluid from rack and refilling system with new fluid job done.
(easy flush by temp moving steering fluid bottle return line to small waste container.)
