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Little Megger
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17 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi folks, just been having a fight with my power steering pump!! managed to get everything off except the high pressure union! It looks like its been put back on wi ptfe tape and possibly cross-threaded! It won't budge at all, tried mole grips on it wi someone else holding the spanner!
I'm stuck as to what to do next!
Am I gonna have to cut it off and replace the whole pipe back to the steering gear?
Car is an 04 tdci estate.
 

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TDDI Buff
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37,060 Posts
is it a pipe connected to the pas pump? trying to work out what you mean here
 

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Big Megger
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2,886 Posts
on the petrol its a 18mm nut, it does kinda lock tight when the surfaces meet, there was ptfe on mine when i replaced so put it on the new one,left a few bolts in the pump when undoing the high pressure though...but it wasn't as tight as yours, get a pole on your spanner if enough room.
 

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TDDI Buff
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37,060 Posts
i had one that was tight as fk on my diesel i think its a similar one to whats mentioned mine had tape stuff on it too and i dont think it had ever been moved before. try a hammer on the spanner to shock it thats what i did then in the end i used a lot of pull and it cracked loose scraped my hands bad but atleast it was undone lol.
 

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Little Megger
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17 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yeah it's the high pressure line on the pas pump! I've tried battering the spanner wi a hammer. It just wont budge at all. I think it may be totally goosed like! Gonna try again the morn, but if I have no luck I'm gonna phone the breakers and get a new pipe cos I'm gonna end up destroying the nut!
How does the other end of the pipe connect to the steering gear? I can't see how it comes off.
 

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TDDI Buff
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37,060 Posts
given i was stripping my car iwas only concerned about the pas/water pump the pipes were not relevant to me so i cant tell you really.
 

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MEG Corporal
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5,689 Posts
ok im going to take a stab at your prob..if the nut looks like a double nut and looks like the top of the nut locks into the bottom part of the nut ..wellll i have news for you..it doesent .it does not lock into the bottocm part and its a ford trick ..the two parts of this nut are actually all one .and all you have ot do is stick a big spanner on the botoom of the dual nut a turn it anti clock and whole lot comes out and wereh the line goes in at the top is actually a sliding fit which is sitting in a seal which can be turned ////the second part of your question is yes the other end of the pipe is connected to the rack by meand of a trox clamp and pulls out it is fitted with an o-ring which must be renewed on repositioningof the pipe in the rack..s ..this is the setup on a 2ltr diesel o3 plate..
 

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TDDI Buff
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37,060 Posts
your right salta it was the bottom nut i was going at but it was still a bit of a pig to undo on my old motor but good point he may be trying to undo the top one
 

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Little Megger
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17 Posts
Ther is apparantly many different versions of this pipe! The 18mm nut does unscrew from the lower one on my car. I bought a new pump and it only had the lower nut on it I ended up going to the scrappy to see one, the pump had already been disconnected. I ended up buying the pipe and just replaced it. Job done! No leaks now, or noisy steering.!
 

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4 Posts
Just done this myself. The pipe is fit via this nut like a speedfit pipework. It just pulls out (but took a big pull). The nut itself is a one use item and needs a new one, cost 9.73 from ford. Did it yesterday. I thought I was going to have to renew the whole hose. The guy at Parts in Terminus Road Chichester was excellent and pointed me right and saved me £100ish. Hope this helps.
PS goes in very easily, no leaks (so far)
 

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12 Posts
I like many are in the same boat. Deisel Mondeo my 3 pas pump change stuck at the Union.

It's where it fits to the pump the pipe hoes into an 18mm nut which appears to be threaded into a much larger nut looks around 22mm but is 4 times longer this ends at the pump body. I have tried on the 18mm nut and nothing so after reading a few threads think I should be working the larger nut.

Please help
 

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Registered
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1,612 Posts
I used a genuine ford spare that came with both parts of the union.
you have a choice:
If you read post #10, the pipe *should* pull out, it is gripped by the copper ring inside the union.

When I did mine, it seemed obvious that it ought to pull out but after fruitless tugging :naughty:, I took the alternative and used a bit of brute strength to undo the nut on both old & new pumps.
Picture shows top and bottom of the unused bit.
View attachment 120307
 

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My mondy 3 tdci was leaking at union nut. Initially I thought pump was leaking and bought a new pump. Tried to undo pump delivery top 18mm nut from larger 22mm nut but no joy and started rounding nut. ( other threads say use an 18mm croefoot spanner). Because I had bought a new pump i undid the larger 22mm union nut from old pump. Now I had the pipe off the pump but how to separate the two nuts? I used a 4.5 " angle grinder to cut a slit along the 22mm larger nut, taking care not to damage the 18mm nut and especially the pipe. ( new pipe sections - 1S7C3A719FM - are in short supply and expensive, £200-300 ) . With slit along 22mm nut it then parted easily from the 18mm nut. A new Ford 18mm union nut was purchased on line (£9). Now how to remove the old 18mm nut from hydraulic pipe.?

These nuts have an internal rubber oil seal near spanner end of nut. THese nuts are held captive on the hydraulic pipe by an internal circlip and once fitted to pipe cannot normally be removed. I removed the old union nut and fitted the new nut by the following method. I placed a wooden work board across top of engine and sat a small bench vice on board . I then clamped the nut, with trailing pipe, in the vice. Position of the locking circlip inside the nut is 5-6mm from pump end of nut. I then put small piece of neoprene tube on flared end of pipe to protect it. I then used a small file to file the threads down flat all round nut and 5-7 mm from nut face. Then I used a small Dremel hobbyist drill with small grindinding wheel (20mm) to gently grind the area 5 -6mm from nut face until the circlip was visible. ( coppery colour). Once the circlip was visible continued grinding around the nut following the circlip. When the groove created reaches full circle the pump end piece of nut will fall off. The circlip can then be removed with a small screwdriver and then the other piece of union nut will slide off pipe. I achieved this with no damage to pipe, took about 45minutes.
My Haynes manual says 18mm nut should be torqued to 56Nm. I then fitted new nut( with teflon washer ) into 22mm union on new pump and torqued up. Old hydraulic delivery pipe was then pushedhard into new nut on pump until it "clicked" Click indicates that pipe flare shoulder has locked into position passed the circlip. New nut now locked on and will not come off pipe. After flushing old fluid from rack and refilling system with new fluid job done.
(easy flush by temp moving steering fluid bottle return line to small waste container.)
Hi folks, just been having a fight with my power steering pump!! managed to get everything off except the high pressure union! It looks like its been put back on wi ptfe tape and possibly cross-threaded! It won't budge at all, tried mole grips on it wi someone else holding the spanner!
I'm stuck as to what to do next!
Am I gonna have to cut it off and replace the whole pipe back to the steering gear?
Car is an 04 tdci estate.
My mondy 3 tdci was leaking at union nut. Initially I thought pump was leaking and bought a new pump. Tried to undo pump delivery top 18mm nut from larger 22mm nut but no joy and started rounding nut. ( other threads say use an 18mm croefoot spanner). Because I had bought a new pump i undid the larger 22mm union nut from old pump. Now I had the pipe off the pump but how to separate the two nuts? I used a 4.5 " angle grinder to cut a slit along the 22mm larger nut, taking care not to damage the 18mm nut and especially the pipe. ( new pipe sections - 1S7C3A719FM - are in short supply and expensive, £200-300 ) . With slit along 22mm nut it then parted easily from the 18mm nut. A new Ford 18mm union nut was purchased on line (£9). Now how to remove the old 18mm nut from hydraulic pipe.?

These nuts have an internal rubber oil seal near spanner end of nut. THese nuts are held captive on the hydraulic pipe by an internal circlip and once fitted to pipe cannot normally be removed. I removed the old union nut and fitted the new nut by the following method. I placed a wooden work board across top of engine and sat a small bench vice on board . I then clamped the nut, with trailing pipe, in the vice. Position of the locking circlip inside the nut is 5-6mm from pump end of nut. I then put small piece of neoprene tube on flared end of pipe to protect it. I then used a small file to file the threads down flat all round nut and 5-7 mm from nut face. Then I used a small Dremel hobbyist drill with small grindinding wheel (20mm) to gently grind the area 5 -6mm from nut face until the circlip was visible. ( coppery colour). Once the circlip was visible continued grinding around the nut following the circlip. When the groove created reaches full circle the pump end piece of nut will fall off. The circlip can then be removed with a small screwdriver and then the other piece of union nut will slide off pipe. I achieved this with no damage to pipe, took about 45minutes.
My Haynes manual says 18mm nut should be torqued to 56Nm. I then fitted new nut( with teflon washer ) into 22mm union on new pump and torqued up. Old hydraulic delivery pipe was then pushedhard into new nut on pump until it "clicked" Click indicates that pipe flare shoulder has locked into position passed the circlip. New nut now locked on and will not come off pipe. After flushing old fluid from rack and refilling system with new fluid job done.
(easy flush by temp moving steering fluid bottle return line to small waste container.)
 
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