[SDR]

ever since i replaced the cambelt i've got quite a kick at start and a permanent (weak) vibration at idle.
the relation(through the belt) between the crank and the cams at the moment is dead spot on. i.e. cams locked and the crank pulley aligned at the second mark with the back of the sump raised mark (haynes) as per pics.
(some will say use the pin but when everything was set with the pin i have fully inserted i had heavy pinging, so at the moment i dont have pinging but the simptoms above and the pin sit 3-4mm out the one i've got is 2" +1/2"+3/16" it is not 2 1/2").
The question is how can i set the timing in order to avoid the kick(i suspect increased compression) at start and the vibration(might be caused by opening the valves early or late and when i touch the top feels as misfiring)?

 

[jarhedch]

I'm gonna throw you a curve ball, check the rear roll restrictor at the back of the engine (sometimes mistaken for an engine mount), if it's worn, it's possible it could be your problem.

 

[SDR]

i changed them both(rear and front), i was thinking about lh and rh but they are not split or damaged in any way also i've been thinking of the cat but the vibration is definitely coming from under the eng cover and it's rather inlet valves than the exhauts side.

 

[SDR]

any thoughts about increased compression?

 

[jarhedch]

doubtful, and there's really no way to change the ignition timing on the thing. Might be a fuelling issue that is a bit lean and causing the thing to buck at startup, which might also cause a bit of a vibration. hard to say really, how's your fuel mileage?

 

[sparker]

there was a thread on this recently. ill see if i can dig it out

 

[sparker]

it was longer ago than i thought. And it was your thread with the same problem. lol. I wont bother posting it up then

 

[Garybee]

You can check the ignition timing through the obdII socket with the right cables and sortware. If you buy the fault code reader to be used with a laptop you can do this.

 

[SDR]

i thought about fault code reader these days, but havent explored it fully to buy one, also v been thinking to get it to a garage for diagnostics. the petrol goes as far as ~300 in the town and 400 on motorway.
fuel filter changed 40k ago/16 months/, every time when i change one i realise that they don't block the fuel flow at all. a few weeks ago checked the lambda (goes smoothly from .2-.9v in 2-3 seconds) but it cant be reason for the vibration. last week bought a new k&n panel. now i think i am getting even louder "moosing" when i "press the pedal to the metal" sounds like a giant air leak, but still not reason for vibration. yesterday i unhook the aux belt to eliminate all the additional rollers with no success the vibration and the kick were still there. i might imagine but it's like getting worse.
the only two things left in the list is the cam/crank relation i.e. when i did the belt first i put some marks on the crank and cams pulleys and this mark differ from the second mark on the crank pulley as you can see at the pic. so tomorow i am really tempted to turn the cam pulleys a bit back to line with the org marks. the only thing troubling me is that roughly the angle on the crank is about 20 degrees which is quite a lot.
the second tought is about blocked cat but a few weeks ago i took the car in the local kwikfit on the ramp and the chap there said it is fine and after that i gave the cat a good knock all around and sounded fine to me too. there was nothing loose inside nor any leaks. on other hand the vibation is from the engine as long as i can establish it.

 

[sparker]

sounds like your lambda is knackered if its taht slow. It should fluctuate aoubt once per second

 

[SDR]

this is not going to sort out the vibration, is it?

 

[sparker]

no, i guess not, but monk is a bastard

It might help in some way. Better fuel econimory or something :naughty:

 

[jarhedch]

your fuel economy is a bit low for starters, and your O2 )lambda) sensor isn't reading right either, should be reading closer to 1. And yes, it is reacting a tad slow. Check for vacuum leaks, and clean your MAF.

 

[SDR]

generally they say it is something like 7-8 cycles for 10 seconds, which is about right.

 

[sparker]

Have a look at this

 

[SDR]

yep i knew it for a while.
i am again after something else now called cam timing.
apparently it looks like the cams dont have to be set with the locking tool at the top and the crank in tdc.
am i right or i am missing something again?
http://www.kentcams.com/info/technical.html

 

[SDR]

there is another surprise:
http://www.alldata.com/techtips/2004/20040420b.html

 

[sparker]

the zetec doesnt have VCT. I think in the US some of them had VCT, but yours wont. So dont worry about taht

 

[SDR]

i thought so but to ask just in case.
what can you say about this 10 degrees advance on the cams/20 degrees retard on the crank/.
is that possible?

 

[sparker]

I dont really know what you mean? Was it in one of eth links and iv missed it?