Ford Automobiles Forum banner
1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Little Megger
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a Mk3 Mondeo and there is such a clunk from the rear end every time I go over a bump so I intent to change the subframe bushes. I have purchased a set of Powerflex polyurethane bushes s0 that there is apparently no need to disconnect the suspension. Has anyone done this? Any advice welcome. Does the rear need to be jacked up with wheels off the ground...if so can you jack up one side at a time? Alternatively can it be done with the rear wheels on ramps?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Jak up the car on one side, support on the frame on axle stand. loosen the nuts on the side you have jacked up. take one out completely. i used a blow torch to warm up the inner bush for a minute then used mole grips to twist the whole bush out from its seat. clean out the frame with emery paper. put a little bit of copper slip on the bush rubber and push it right in so the lip at the top locates in the top of the subframe. push in the metal sleeve then put on the new washer and loosely tighten the bolt in but not tighten up untill you repeat the process on the other bush.
once done fully tighten then do the same for the other side.
heating the old bushes allowed me to do all four in an hour.
have fun.
 

·
Little Megger
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
:thankyousign: Many thanks, that's really helpful. One question though I'm not sure about, are you saying that I support the subframe on an axle stand after I jack up the car at the side jacking point?
 

·
Couch Potato
Joined
·
2,944 Posts
You don't need axle stands to support the subframe if you are doing one bush at a time. You don't even need to jack the car up if you can get underneath. The easiest way for fat bellies like me is to put the car on ramps. See my How-To in the mechanical section of the Meg Workshop forum for full details of the procedure.
 

·
MEG Captain
Joined
·
4,819 Posts
hopefully the subframe wont be too far gone and you will just get away with new bushes :L
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
just support the frame of the vehicle:ie the rear jacking point, that way you are safe to work underneath and able to lower the subframe enough.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Hi, dont worry about it's simple i cahanged all four in less than an hour.

There is no need to support the subframe. just jack one side to give yourself more room under the car Then take out one bolt, pullout the old bush, you might need some good pliers or grip, mine almost fell out. put some grease on the outer casing and push, turn the new one in without the steel insert. make sure the top lip can bee felt with your finger tip between the sub frame andt the chasis. then push in the steel insert put the bolt back in with the new steel washer and the old one. I put a drop of oil on the old washer so it didn't grip the new one and turn it when i tightend the bolt. If you jack up the car there will be enough clearence between the subframe and the chasis to work easier.

It is as simple as that!

good luck : :L
 

·
Little Megger
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
:L I finally fitted the bushes. It took me 7 hours to fit all 4 but I was feeling my way. Having done the set, have to say it was straightforward and the advice from you guys was really useful. I bought a set of Powerflex bushes on Ebay for £60 from JM Racing, at least that was who I thought I was buying from. After a week I e-mailed them to see where the bushes were and I was then dealing with another Company Amber Performance. They sent me un-signed e-mails (rude not to sign)telling me they had been dispatched direct from Powerflex. However I have to say that at £15 the bushes are a right rip off, I reckon they cost about £1.50 max. each to produce. But they do work...the car is very quiet now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
Make sure you align the subframe centrally to the car, if you look at the subframe you'll see there are holes on both the left and right sides. If you look under the car and look up through the holes you'll see a corresponding hole in the car body, these must align with each other. It's really easy to do, before tightening the subframe bolts get two short (about a foot)lengths of 15mm copper pipe and pass them through the holes in the subframe and into the corresponing holes in the car body, this will keep the subframe perfectly central to the car. Get a mate to tighten the subframe bolts evenly, each a bit at a time until tight then torque all bolts to spec.
If you like, while the bolts are loose, move the subframe around and you'll see the rear wheels move left and right (as if you were steering them) so it's essential the subframe is central to get the correct wheel geometery, i also got the wheel alignment checked at a local garage, turns out mine were bang on but it's worth checking especially with tyres costing £120+ each.
Jim.
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top