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Rear wheel bearing

1608 Views 15 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  stannardd
Hi everyone - not used the forum before. I am an oldy but goody who used to tear apart Cortinas and Marinas. Not done much DIY to modern cars. But I was so incensed with my ford dealership today that I am back weilding the spanners. (used to be all AF spanners in my day, don't suppose anyone knows what I am talking about.) Anyway I am rambling on a bit.

Ford said today that my wifes Mondeo needs rear brake pads and disks and a rear nearside wheel bearing.

They wanted £200 to do the brakes and £315 to do the bearing. The fact that if they did the brakes they are virtually doing the bearing as well didn't wash so I turned their offer of £515 quid down and set to work.

First thing I did was to find this great web site. Nothing like it in my day (here I go again)

So I bought disks and pads for £80 in my local car shop. Changed the offside pads and disk in about 2 hours (takes me time to get up and down.....) All successful.

I haven't done the nearside yet as I want to order a bearing and do it at the same time.

On the subject of the bearing I have seen the 4 x T50 torx bolts. Look rusted on to me. If these bolts get messed up I'm in big trouble.

I remember when taking cross head screws out of my old Honda that I used an impact driver. Is the same sort of tool available when using these new fangled torx things?

Anyway, all advice is welcome and I feel really chuffed about telling the main dealer where to get off

Kind regards

2.0 petrol, 54 plate, dents, scratches and cruise control (not working).
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Hello, Im glad to hear that you are getting stuck in with your own(or your wifes) car, sounds like you know what your doing :) the torx bolts shouldnt give you to much bother.
AF spanners, yes I remember them, how about whitworth spanners lol.
The torx bolts are cheap enough from the dealer, so its maybe best to get 4 new ones, just in case
hi stannardd, you sound like me trying to do it all yourself, when i was better off i used to just use a garage, but now i just get on with it myself, sites like this make all the difference.
back on topic, many on here have used the 50 quid bearings off ebay and seem to be ok, as for the bolts i would just soak them the night before, i personally wouldn't use my impact, as I've read it can be to powerful and rip the head off if rusty, i would just do it slow with a breaker bar if there was enough room, anyhow let us know how you get on.
i did mine a couple of weeks ago mine were the same looked well rusty but squerted loads of dubs 40 had a cuppa as i slackened them off all the top rust came off leaving 4 fairly shiny torxs bolts you might need a dremmel to clear the rust from the hole on the hub to put the torx key into thou as mine was rusty and a bit tight plus you throwing it away aswell probably seen this already but if not it should help:

You do right to do the work yourself.....not sure how some of these spanner monkey's have the nerve to charge so much, after all they aint mechanics anymore...most of them are fitters as parts dont get repaired anymore they simply get swopped for new ones!

Anyway the hardest part I found with the whole job is detaching the handbrake cable from the caliper, however, as you have done one side already you already know what a pain it is.

Good should save yourself a packet....rear hubs complete with new bearing are around £50 on ebay and as you say...4 bolt out and 4 bolt in job.
i didnt undo the handbrake cable left it fitted just moved the caliper to one side
stripe88 said:
many on here have used the 50 quid bearings off ebay and seem to be ok,
Agreed. :L

I bought this and....touch wood, it's working perfectly
Thanks everyone for your replies.

I have now ordered the rear bearing from e bay.
Just to clarify some points from the Wiki.

I need a 50T torx bit bought as a 3/8" socket.
I need a 3/8" extension bar.
I need to connect this bar to my torque wrench which is 1/2" drive. How do I do this?
Is there a 1/2" to 3/8" converter?

Kind regards
Yes you can buy an adaptor, but I dont think that a 3/8 socket will be good enough to undo the torx bolts, as they will be tight.
OK Now I am really confused. I understood from the wiki that a 3/8" drive T50 torx bit was needed.
If you dont think that this will undo the bolts, then what will.

Best regards
Stannard a T50 will undo the bolts (its the only tool that can do it)...just depends how tight they are as to which type of holder you will need to get them turning. I think Motorman is talking about a 3/8's socket not being weighty enough but soak them well in WD40 the night before and you should have no problem.....matters not which method you use to hold the T50 bit....infact you could also use a long T50 bit with an extension bar on it...theres a few differant combinations.
yes, a couple of quid in halfords.

oops didnt see page 2, yes 3/8 to 1/2
3/8" is quite meaty enough - besides, you won't get a 1/2" through the hole in the hub. My bolts came out surprisingly easily - although they're caked in crap, the actual threads are quite clean.
Just to close this thread. All finished. No problems. New bearing from e bay is very quiet and seems great.

However, I think the Wiki needs updating. The current Wiki sais that you need a 3/8 drive socket extension bar to fit through the holes in the hub.

Actually 1 of the 4 holes is drilled oversize and a standard 1/2 drive socket goes through OK. So all you have to do is use the bigger hole to undo/tighten one T50 bolt, then rotate the hub so the bigger hole is used on all other 3 T50 bolts.

Don't know how to forward this info to Wiki control, but thanks for all your help.

Best regards
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