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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,
Over the weekend I accidentally snapped a fuel line connector, whilst doing a leakback test. I've now managed to replace this and connect it all up. However the engine died whilst doing the leak back test, i think (in hindsight) this because it was sucking air into the fuel system from the open pipe. DOL!
So Engine won't start (un-surprisingly) due to the air in the system and low pressure, my question is how can i bleed the fuel system and get it running again? Any help or suggestions greatly appreciated, car booked in at local garage in a weeks time and I can feel the wolves circling for my CA$H.
I have Formidable and connector.

Thanks

Simon
 

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Old Fords never die they just keep on rolling.
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Make sure the filter is full of fuel first. Then the battery is fully charged.

Loosen off the nuts on top of the injectors and crank in short bursts until fuel starts to come out. Tighten the nuts and repeat the process one injector at a time if it hasn't started after the first procedure. The crucial thing is to not crank for long periods as this can damage the pump due to it being lubricated by the diesel and if it is airlocked it can be damaged. It is important that you either have a filly charged battery or at least have another car to boost yours off.
 

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MEG Corporal
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HI Simon ..they can be a right piggy to start once the air gets in the diesel .. the constant cranking causes air to actually integrate with the fuel and makes the fuel then impossible to compress as air is compressable .. so i sometimes would leave the engine to stand for a few hours or overnight .and go though the proceedure as mabok outlines above . and making sure that seals are good on the existing leak off lines and especially on the fuel filter if they have been disturbed . [a favourite is leaving one of the clipped sealing joints on top of the filter back to far before pressing the clamp clip home . ..i.e you need to keep a good pressure downward on the pipe end and clip before sliding the clamp clip into place ensuring a good tight seal .....ohterwise it will draw air at the clip s .. IT is also a good idea if you have air problems to fit a piece of transparent pipe between the filter supply to the pump and the pump .. just to where the line connects over the timing chain casing . this way you can monitor the air in the line.. more than ten bubbles a minute is too much air ..s
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Excellent advise guys. My Battery is currently flat from trying. Looks like it's the original on my 54 plate so going to get a decent charger (CTEK MXS 3.6 3.8A) and give that a go, failing that new battery. Like the idea of putting some clear fuel pipe in, although I can't find any any where. Salta, do you know where you can get some and the mm?
Cheers fellas, let you know how I go.
 

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MEG Corporal
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ok Simon sorry for the slow get back .. this is what i did re transparent fuel line .. I first sourced a spare fuel line piece from a scrappie[.i.e .the piece which goes form the fuel filter to the joining over the timing chain casing . ..red is the flow afaikr] then i cut the the ends of the spare pipe sourced in the scrappie.and left on sufficient pipe i.e .about two to three inched of pipe after the clips.. ..then i took one of these pieces along with me to local halfords and compared diameters of pipe using hollow plastic ferrules sourced at a local diy plumbing place . then at the workshop i assembled the transparent pipe to the two clip ends which i cut off the sourced spare fuel feed pipe .. . making sure to leave it long enough to fit exactly where i had removed the original fuel line .. Now I have the test pipe which i can install in a few minutes when I want to monitor the air bubbles in the line and then when im finished i can reinstall the original fuel line piece without problem . s
 

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Thanks for that Salta, may need to try that over the weekend because:

-Update-
Ok so new battery in.
Fueled the empty leak back pipes with syringe and till pressure flowing back..
Turned over the engine and every few releasing air from the high pressure injector/pipe connection. Doing this on a different injector each time.
Doesn't appear to be anymore air, although this may be the cause of the next bit.
Car stil isn't starting or getting close. Connecting up formidible and reading live data there doesn't seem to be any pressure building in the rail pipe. Even if i turn over the car several times without releasing pressure.
I've got through the original battery charge and a second (overnight last night) turning the engine over trying to release air.
Am I missing something? Or could something else have happened with all the battery cut outs disconnections.
Current DTCs are Fuel rail pipe low pressure and 2338 Cylinder knock- (which is/was my faulty injector, now replaced)
Please help.

One other Question- Should I be hearing the fuel pump on turning the ignition, I assume that is what should be applying the pressure and if that's not working for some reason then that would explain my no/little pressure.

Thanks,

Simon
 

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54 plate TDCI? There is no lift pump.

Pipes from the fuel filter on the right way around?
 

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Try doing a leak off test while cranking if one is not holding little or no pressure then it will be leaking back loads I have had this problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hi purple, the pipes on the filter have not been touched.

Hi Zetect,
The couple of times I have disconnected the leak back pipe to see if any diesel is passing from the injector whilst cranking there hasn't been anything. Also after cranking several times the pressure I have built in the leak back pipes using the syringe has gone. I then syringe more in.
I'm guessing there is simply more air in the system somewhere but it's not hissing out when I undo the injector lines after cranking. There most be a better way...?

Cheers
 

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I had a dodgy injector in mine and I thought it was air I would fill the filter up then crank it and fuel would come out of the h/p conectors then it would just stop I nearly put a hammer to it then did a leak off test and one was pi**ing fuel out of one changed it and it started first go I dont no if you have the same problem but worth ago.
 

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Hi Simon,

It's strange that you aren't seeing any rail pressure on F-Super.

If you disconnect the electrical connector to the IMV (the cylindrical thing on the end of the injection pump) then it will give maximum pump pressure. Try cranking it like this but stop it and reconnect the wire if the engine fires.

The pump makes no noise on turning on the ignition. It is only driven by the engine rotation.

As Chris suggests, you may be losing all your rail pressure through one leaky injector, but you should see this on a leak-off test.

Peter
 

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Is the rail sensor plugged in and working? Dont have a tuning box do you?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I don't think it's a leaky injector (could be wrong) as I did a leak back test at the weekend and nothing abnormal other than the changed injector (which is why i started all this, broken leak back pipe and now no fuel pressure, air etc) I have reprogrammed this injector change.

Purple_2L_LX
I do indeed have a tuning box and it is connected. No reason to think either this or rail sensor failed. I have only cranked a couple of times with the tuning box off, but now you mention it, seems like I should disconnect it until I am up and running again.

When I disconnected the rail sensor Live data showed a pressure of 2000 so this answers Peter Scotts question and half proves it is functioning.

Cheers guys for your help, feel you lot are getting close!
 

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If you changed the injector this could be it where did you get it from.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks,
No it's definitely not the injector, i've been using it for months. I have only effectively swapped injectors around with another original, the one I bought was the best performer in my weekends leak back test.
 

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I feel your pain Simon, I too cracked a connector while doing a leak off test. Fortunately I made sure not to let any air in (still waiting on some leak off pipes so I can drive my car around).

If I were you I'd hook the car back up like you're doing a leak off test. This way you'll purge any air into the bottles instead of letting it go back around the system. Don't plug the return pipe, instead place it in a large container of diesel (it'll suck fuel in quicker than you think). Also as Mabok01 suggested fill your fuel filter back up, it's most likely full of air now. Also if you are loosing pressure due to an injector you'll know very quickly.

Where about in Northamptonshire are you? I might be able to give you a hand once my pipes arrive (hopefully they arrive today/tomorrow morning). I'm in Corby by the way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
That's a good call warbital, I've just driven around Kettering trying to find a manual pump or syringes. Would of been better asking an addict! No hardware + Halfords stock them (live in Northampton, work in Kettering). Putting the leak back into a res of diesel, makes a lot of sense, as if i'm bleeding off air it needs replacing with something at the other end. I'll also check the filter as you say good contender for air pockets.
I'll update the situation tonight.

Cheers
 

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A chemist should have syringes and motorfactors or boating supplies for a hand pump. Try to keep the reservoir of diesel higher than your pump (if you can rig it up safely). Hopefully with that and your fuel filter fully primed you'll get the car to start and pump any remaining air out. Also as Mabok01 said short burst when cranking the motor 5sec MAX. If you do need any help send me a PM but keep us updated.
 
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