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Resident LED Guru
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The car is back running on 2 cylinders after changing teh coil pack. Now there is a signal getting to the coilpack. But theres no spark on 1 or 4. Which was checked by a timing light. 2 and 3 do have a spark.

Iv taken the no 1 spark plug out and it has oil on the sides. Iv cleaned it up but theres still oil inside the plug hole. Will this be stopping it from grounding and getting a spark? If so whats teh best way to clean it out.

Does any one else have any thoughts on why else it wont be geting a spark?
 

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Still waiting to Wii
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no, yer better off just changing the plugs, and leads, but i think you've got a deeper problem here, you need to check the integrity of the wires going to and from the coil pack. the ECM grounds out each individual coil pack to get teh spark. If one of those wires is either a: shorted to ground: or b: broken, the ECM will be unable to control the coil pack. Seeing as 2 cylinders are firing, then it is obvuiously getting its power feed which would lead me tosuspect the ground side of things. try that.
 

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Resident LED Guru
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I already have an extra ground strap to the coil bracket, so i doubt ground is a problem. The signal is getting as far as the connectors on the coil pack.

I should have mentioned earlier that im getting a lot of back firing too. In fact its seems to be coming straight out of throttles 2 and 3. I get a reading or between 13:1 and 14:1 from the lambda sensor (wideband lambda controller fitted), but as only 2 cylinders are firing I suspect that its reading leaner than the actual value. If its running mega rich, can that make it harder for teh spark to get though the mix? Which is stopping it sparking altogether? Im gonna try running it a bit leaner after dinner anyway to check it out.

Any more replies in teh mean time are welcome
 

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Still waiting to Wii
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the coil needs to be grounded, but I'm referring to the small 3 wires int he connector, you need to check those out and make sure those wires are fine. The signal is not abel to be checked by a voltmeter, as it's on teh ground side. the ECm simply grounds out the coil primary side to fire it.
 

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Resident LED Guru
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
i checked them using LEDs to make sure they were working. I knew a volt meter wouldnt do teh job.

I think the car has just eaten thru another coil pack. Im really feeling depressed about this now
 

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Still waiting to Wii
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how did you check them? did you feed the LED 12 vots and then see if they flashed by setting the other end down the line and see if the ECM grounded it out? hate to say it, but i don't htink that will work either. If the new coil pack wasn't working on the same cylinders, then it points to another problem. Also, if there's a bad ground with corrosion, an LED will still light but there's no way a coil will work. LEDs as you know, require very little current, where a coil needs quite abit more.
 

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Resident LED Guru
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2,912 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thats how I checked it, but I know its not down to corrosion as the wiring is brand new
 

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Resident LED Guru
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Got it running on all 4 cylinders. I took the plung and put a 3rd coil pack in and adjusted fueling a fair bit. I guess the VE generator in MegaSquirt doesnt take everything into consideration. pulse width has gone from 3.1ms to 1.8ms. Now if i understand teh system right, then you take 1ms off for injector opening time which leaves it at 2.1ms and 0.8ms. Thats nearly 3 times as much fuel as megasquirt had calculated that id need
 

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Turbo Boost Me!
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sparker said:
Got it running on all 4 cylinders. I took the plung and put a 3rd coil pack in and adjusted fueling a fair bit. I guess the VE generator in MegaSquirt doesnt take everything into consideration. pulse width has gone from 3.1ms to 1.8ms. Now if i understand teh system right, then you take 1ms off for injector opening time which leaves it at 2.1ms and 0.8ms. Thats nearly 3 times as much fuel as megasquirt had calculated that id need
1.8ms, Thats low, mine is 2.3ms with 440cc injectors, How have you got the injector staging set, I would set it to alternating if is not already set at that, You get alot smoother idle and cruise, The generator isnt that good to be honest, I tried to use it and got nowhere. If I had known you were running throttle bodies, Ive got a map for a zetec with throttle bodies
 

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Resident LED Guru
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Iv got it set to simultaneous. because im only using 1 injector chanel ATM. No need for 880cc per cylinder with throttle bodies. Which im sure i already told you. lol. But ages ago.

Anyway, iv been out all afternoon mapping, has been fun. Cant get the idle down just yet tho as i need to get the airflow to all cylinders balanced first. I think i have a lower pulse width because im running long duration cams, so at low revs the VE is much lower than standard cams
 

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Turbo Boost Me!
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sparker said:
Iv got it set to simultaneous. because im only using 1 injector chanel ATM. No need for 880cc per cylinder with throttle bodies. Which im sure i already told you. lol. But ages ago.

Anyway, iv been out all afternoon mapping, has been fun. Cant get the idle down just yet tho as i need to get the airflow to all cylinders balanced first. I think i have a lower pulse width because im running long duration cams, so at low revs the VE is much lower than standard cams
but still, I tried for 2 weeks to get the idle smooth, It was all down to the PW being too low which was due to the injector staging set to simultanious instead of alternating. How big are your injectors?
 

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Resident LED Guru
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injectors are 440cc. Think i might put the R1 injectors in as well. They are good for 175bhp at least. Will be able to sort the idle better with those and can bring in the larger injectors later on. And i do know i dont need such large injectors for what im running "Just Now" :whistling:

Hoping for closer to 200bhp with the current setup, so the R1 injectors probably wont be enough
 
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