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Little Megger
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141 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,

I used to run a Mk1 24v manual hatchback in nouveau red in which I did 50k odd (relatively) trouble free miles. I loved the fact that it was essentially a base model with a manual sunroof and winding windows in the back, but with a stonking V6 under the bonnet with a tone that you could play like a Stradivarius. Unfortunately rising fuel costs and the fact that my girlfriend at the time lived 90 miles away meant that when it started to make funny noises I raided the piggybank for a 2001 VW Bora Tdi. The VW hasn't missed a beat and the midrange torque is brilliant but I still mourned the rev range of the V6.

I never actually got rid of the Mondeo and it sat on my mothers drive for nearly 4 years, still started occasionally just to keep it free.

Bought a house.

With a garage,

Fast forward to 2011 and I finally (to mother's relief - bless her) moved the Mondeo to mine.

Ebay, (other internet auction sites are available), and 550 hard earned quids turned me into the owner of the engine out of an ST220 that had suffered a rear ending. I was a tad apprehensive as all the other 220 engines at the time were £1000 upwards so what had I bought?!

Saddled up the trailer and my brother (he was for company, not to pull the trailer) and went to Birmingham to pick it up. Was a full engine with all belts and ancilliaries and a gearbox to boot. Pulled it home. Sadly I have no pictures of the V6 powered trailer.

So armed with Haynes' finest and a set of old clothes I about removing the old 2.5 out of the Mondeo.

I was without a camera at this point, so there's no photos, but I swapped the gearboxes over (my car was rod change, not cable), and used some old bits of exhaust pipe to make the 220 precats mate up with the old Y pipe. (I wanted to try and make this project relatively quick and cheap)
(pics are retrospect, sorry about the sepia)
Automotive tire Jaw Hood Vehicle Gesture
Head Helmet Black Headgear Personal protective equipment
and the rear
Motor vehicle Automotive fuel system Gas Automotive exterior Bumper
Gas Plumbing Auto part Pipe Wood

More to come.
 

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Premium Member
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7,655 Posts
cool project, a 3.0 Mk1 would fly!

Whack some St200 cams in there which are a direct fit for that top end surge.

Regarding remapping, explore the avenue if it's possible to 'Flash' an existing ST220 map direct to your ECU, if not possible I recommend the likes of megasqirt stand alone management.

Looking forward to this diary and development.
 

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Little Megger
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141 Posts
I needed to change the alternator over and use the old one. I believe the ST220 alt is regulated by the ECU and my old EECIV management isn't prepared for that. 1st snag, was that the engine blocks are slightly different in this respect, and to mount my old alternator I needed to cut a small lug off the block near the top. Out comes the grinder. Alternator now fits.
Being that the air con had never worked since I'd had the car and I'd never had it regassed, I decided to do away with the extra radiator and all the plumbing, which then meant I could lose the pump as well. I'd never realised how heavy they are, here's the space it left behind.
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Tints and shades Bag Automotive lighting
Obviously it required a shorter belt.
New shorter belt sourced.
Turns out the timing covers differ between the engines and there's a raised section on the 220 one right in the path of the shorter belt.
Turns out to swap the timing cover I need to remove the rocker covers, power steering pump, idler, tensioner, crank pulley, and the sump.
Cue swearing and a trip to Fords to try and navigate their parts department. I don't know if you've ever tried to buy things from a Ford parts department, but it's sometimes as if they haven't had the concept of vehicle parts explained to them.
Turns out that whilst my guy was friendly and willing to try without a registration number, he initially refuted my claim that Ford had ever made a V6.

We persevered, and a fortnight later I possessed the rocker gaskets, timing cover gaskets, and a crank pulley bolt.
Set about removing the crank pulley, the edges of which gave way under my 3 legger. Nice one Fords! Fortunately I had the spare from the old engine which seemed a lot more robust. Swapped the crank seals over, (which in hindsight was probably a stupid thing to do) and the timing covers and bolted it all back together after a good clean.
Thing are looking up.
Turns out the injector loom that goes under the UIM is missing from my engine. Tried the old one from the 2.5 and the spacing and injector plugs are different.
Things are looking down again.
Mulled over the idea of using the old injectors for a moment of brain freeze and quickly ditched the thought.
40 quid lighter and a few days later I now possess the correct injector loom. I was amazed to find that after a riveting morning testing continuities along the wires that the pinouts on two of the large plugs at the back of the engine hadn't changed in 7 years and 2 model upgrades.
Things are looking up, again.
The Mk1 uses a return type fuel system where the pump supplies the engine with whatever it needs and sends whatever's left back to the tank.
The ST220 uses no such rubbish.
Things are looking down, again.
Thought about swapping to returnless style but then realised not only would I need the ST220 pump, but I'd also need the management system that drives it, which basically means sourcing then swapping entire looms, not to mention ECU and all the immobiliser stuff too. Not likely, says I.
A few long nights spent in front of the Google machine led me to a post on the http://www.fordconto...-fpr-connector/ site (apologies to the mods - if you want me remove reference to another site I will) which basically ended up with me having this
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive exterior Automotive wheel system Rim
I cut the FPR off the old 2.5 rail with a hacksaw and took it to my local friendly engineer who tapped it so I could fit some barbed fuel line fittings and a T piece, so that now the ST220 fuel rail has a return capacity.
Essentially this. The red lines indicate that everything behind the pressure reg is under pressure and the return line to the tank is indicated in blue.
Rectangle Parallel Font Slope Drawing
So that's fuel and exhaust sorted, on a budget. Out comes the crane, in goes the engine and gearbox. Connected all the pipes up, filled it full of oil and water. Battery, intakes, steering fluid, bled the clutch, started it up.
No-one was more amazed than me that it worked. Things are looking up.
 

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Little Megger
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141 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Very gingerly, I put my foot on the clutch and put it into gear, and very, very slowly lifted my foot up to the biting point. As the gearbox started to take the strain, I ran out of pedal.
Things are looking down, again.
If I floored it in gear, the car started to move, oh so slightly. There's nothing quite like sitting on your drive in your car in top gear at 3k. Back to Talkford searches, and it turns out you need to match the flywheel to the gearbox not to the engine

I drained all the fluids, disconnected the battery, all the pipework, the driveshafts, undid all the engine mountings, the exhaust and the gearbox selector rod and lifted the bloody thing out again.
You can see the difference in flywheels here:
Automotive lighting Bumper Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive exterior
Sports equipment Wheel Automotive tire Automotive lighting Wood
The 220 one is obviously a dual mass thing and this hadn't registered when I swapped the gearboxes over. Split it down again and swapped the flywheels and clutches so I was now running my original one from the 2.5.
Wrong clutch
Wheel Crankset Automotive tire Gear Vehicle
Right clutch
Automotive tire Bicycle part Rim Motor vehicle Spoke
A more prudent man might have put a new clutch in it while he was there, but I figured I'm getting quite versed in this engine removal lark, so when it goes, I'll tackle it.
Gearbox bolted back up, starter motor back on while it's all out and easy to get to, and the captive bolt on the starter that attaches the power lead shears off with very little force at all. Things were looking up, momentarily.
Good job I don't throw things away, I used the old starter and all is now fine again so I set about refitting it all, engine in, pipes, fluids, electrics, driveshafts, gear selector, fuel lines etc. Amazingly, it started again, 2nd turn of the key. Things are looking up, again.
I'd always known that the body required a little attention at the rear of the sills but I have a mig welder so I wasn't particularly concerned. I was kind of aiming for slightly rat look anyway so occasional patches covered in hammerite weren't a problem. I jacked up the car and had a good look at the sills.
Things are looking down, again.
I knew sills were available from the local auto factors at a reasonable rate but this plan assumes there is metal to weld them to, which was no longer the case. Under the carpet half the floor was missing. I quickly realised this was going to be decision time, I dropped the car down back on it's wheels and went on the pi$$. I came to the decision over the next week or so, that to weld up that shell would require removing the interior and the fuel lines, brake lines, fuel tank to be safe, wiring looms, and half the suspension, which knowing me, I'd want to rebush it all and get it powdercoated before I put it back on. This was quickly evading the project maxim of quick and cheap.
Fast forward a few weeks and I find myself on ebay during a nightshift and this baby pops up:
Wheel Automotive parking light Car Land vehicle Vehicle
 

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Little Megger
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141 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
On the back of these pictures I put in a maximum bid of £500
Wheel Car Tire Vehicle Land vehicle Wheel Car Tire Automotive parking light Land vehicle
Light Gauge Motor vehicle Speedometer Auto part Tire Wheel Automotive tire Hood Grille
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive exterior Automotive design Car Plant Vehicle Car Steering part Motor vehicle
The listing said it had decent bodywork, 81k on the clock, and service history. And it was a saloon, which I actually prefer when pushed.
£450 and I won it. The slight hindrance of having to travel from Grimsby to Bridport (Wales? No, Dorset) to pick it up was solved with another guilty pleasure of mine, riding on trains. I threw some basic tools and a multimeter in a rucksack and set off down south. On reflection I'm glad I didn't get searched when I changed at Euston as they'd probably accuse me of some nefarious activity. Got to Bridport about 2pm (been travelling since 5am) and met the chap, Michael. Nice fella. He gave me a tenner back to get some benzine which I thought was nice.
The car drove home without hiccup, and the only things that weren't working was the passenger side front foglight and the alarm didn't disable when using the drivers side to unlock the car. It wandered a little under heavy breaking but it's only a Mondeo if it requires the bottom arms replacing.
Perfect.
Apart from the fact it's an Automatic

I hate Automatics.
.
 

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Little Megger
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141 Posts
So I removed the engine (for the 3rd time) and drivetrain and all the good bits off the old shell and then called the local scrapyard who came and picked it up. By this time I'd inherited a camera, admittedly a cheap one that came free with something else.
I added my original 5 spokes
Automotive parking light Car Wheel Tire Vehicle
It's got proper glass lense headlights
Automotive parking light Automotive lighting Hood Automotive tire Grille
All important sills are good as are the rear arches
Tire Automotive tire Automotive lighting Hood Road surface Automotive tire Tire Wood Tread Automotive lighting
Tire Wheel Hood Automotive tire Automotive lighting
It actually came up quite well after a good wash and a MOP with some G3.
Hood Automotive lighting Automotive tire Bumper Automotive tail & brake light Tire Wheel Car Land vehicle Vehicle
While I was at it, since the wheels had been going flat every few days I decided to get them blasted and powdercoated. I went for white, in a vague kind of half arsed nod towards the old touring cars of the 90's. The main part is I'm no longer pumping the tyres up twice a week.
Wheel Tire Land vehicle Car Vehicle
I think it needs lowering really but that can happen when coilovers turn up at the right price, and anyway, some bits need to come off.
 

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Little Megger
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141 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Once the old car was gone and it stopped raining, it was time for the Auto to meet it's fate. I must admit, the comfy leather seats and the hi spec of the Ghia did kind of suit a lazy V6 auto, but that's not what I want, so after a few hours (it's getting faster every time I do this) I was left with one of these
Car Motor vehicle Automotive fuel system Vehicle Hood Vehicle Motor vehicle Hood Automotive exterior Automotive air manifold
and one of these
Motor vehicle Vehicle Automotive tire Auto part Automotive exterior Mass production Metal Engineering Auto part Aluminium
After a few more hours I also had one of these
Font Fashion accessory Personal protective equipment Metal Auto part
and one of these
Bumper Automotive tire Asphalt Machine Nickel
 

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Premium Member
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Petrol blue 'D5' like my Mk1 saloon was. If you need some ideas check out my Mk1 diary in my signature link.
 

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Little Megger
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141 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
While there was space I replaced both the front brake pipes and removed the aircon radiator and ATF oil cooler. The first problem I encountered with the manual conversion was the fact that unbeknownst to me, the automatic uses a different subframe. The rear gearbox mount uses a different system. Out came the welder and a bit of old gearbox mount from a type 9 gearbox. After a bit of in and out with the new engine and setting up the best position I could I managed to stick this to the rear of the subframe.
Motor vehicle Automotive wheel system Gas Auto part Nut
It's shown here with the box already attached. Bit of hammerite to keep the rust at bay.
Craned the engine out and finished the welding. And then spent a couple of hours in about the most uncomfortable position I could ever imagine; head up in the drivers footwell and legs draped up the back of the drivers seat with all the blood going to my head and all the cramp to my legs, to finish up with this
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Hood Tire Car
Thankfully, the mounting points for the auto pedalbox are the same as those in the manual, and there's just a rubber grommet to remove from the bulkhead where the master cylinder protrudes into the engine bay.
Craned the engine back in again, hopefully for the last time in a while.
Hood Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Vehicle Automotive fuel system Hood Motor vehicle Vehicle Automotive exterior Auto part
 

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Little Megger
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141 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Now it pretty much looks like this
Car Vehicle Motor vehicle Hood Auto part
The wiring side proved less of a headache than I originally thought. You just leave this unplugged.
Automotive tire Hood Hat Motor vehicle Bumper
But, it turns out that the Auto needs to think that the car's in either Neutral or Park before it'll start. Had a read through Haynes circuit diagrams and found out that this connection is made at what was the auto gearbox position sensor. Initially I just soldered the 2 wires together and wrapped them back up. This was until I took it out again and it wouldn't rev over 4k. It wasn't struggling, there was just some kind of limiter occurring. Had I read the owners manual that still came with the car after all these years, I'd've realised that it won't rev highly while it's in Park/Neutral to protect the engine when not under load. I'd fooled it into thinking it was in Neutral all the time.
This seemed as good an excuse as ever to have a simple push-to-make starter button that you press when turning the key which momentarily tells the ECU the car is stationary. It's also quite good anti theft but I've just broadcast it to the world so that's the end of that.
Vehicle Motor vehicle Personal luxury car Car Steering part
I needed to swap the brake master cylinder too as the automatics didn't have a takeoff for the hydraulic clutch. This led to quite an interesting maiden voyage. I only went round the block but what I now know to be defective seals in the old master cylinder wouldn't let the fluid travel back when I eased off the brakes. So every time I touched the brakes, they came on even harder. It was relentless. I had to leave the car a couple hundred yards from the house for an hour or two while the fluid drained back. I limped the car home carefully and replaced the master cylinder and servo with one from a breakers and now all is well (ish).
 

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Mk3 newbie
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4,105 Posts
This is bloody brilliant, best thing I've seen on here in a long, long time! Genius
 

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Premium Member
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7,655 Posts
nice work
 

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ST200 Limited Ghia X
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6,508 Posts
what a surpise thread! been waiting years for decent coverage of this 3.0 lark.

you write well too. nice one!
 

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Super Moderator
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19,005 Posts
Nice project mate, you'll get there mate, i remember doing a auto to manual conversion (a week after a 1.6 to 2.0 conversion on my old mk1 sierra, rip) pedal boxes were a direct swap on that, and the sierra had the starter inhibitor switch to stop it being started in gear, the wires just twisted and got soldered together, instant fix, so you were on the right tracks... Only the electrics went on to some electronic microchip as opposed to the old on off switch "chip" in the sierras.

Don't envy you out in this weather doing bits to it!

Keep up the good work, and the updates
 

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Mk3 newbie
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4,105 Posts
you write well too
Doesn't he just?! A refreshing change on a car site, superb to read.

Shame you're up in Grimsby else I'd be trying to invite myself over for a gawping session
 

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Uncle Nasty
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9,086 Posts
Brilliant thread.. Can't wait for the next installment.
 

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Roomey
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690 Posts
Cracking stuff really enjoying this tread keep up the good work, I love to see the rs body kit on it then
Cheers
Roomey
 

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Premium Member
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26,464 Posts
Brill, haven't had a decent engine swap for a very long time! The 220 is a great engine, I've often thought of putting it in a Mk1 Mondeo, but as always, time and space!
 
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