ST24 UIM

1532 Views 19 Replies 7 Participants Last post by sgking, Mar 5, 2010

bobsy

Discussion Starter · Mar 2, 2010

Hi,

sorry there's a lot of topics on this subject but i've not been able to get an answer to my question on the other strings - just hoping someone may be able to help here please?

I took the chance to buy a spare UIM for my ST24 as it was going cheap with my replacement IMRC (!), as I would like to try taking the UIM off at some point for the experience - and any chance to improve the running of the engine at the same time is worth doing.

Aside from cleaning the replacement UIM, is there any other work i could do ie smoothing the insides etc before fitting?

any suggestions would be appreciated - just want to know what options i have!
,
cheers

bobsy

1 - 20 of 20 Posts

Simonty

· #2 · Mar 2, 2010

3

Hi,

In the grand scheme of things anything you can realistically do to it won't make much difference because most of the innards are inaccessible.

I did a couple of tiny tweaks to mine while it was last out. I filled in the EGR channels with 2 part body filler (JB Weld would be more suitable though as it will hold fast even when warm). I also sanded down a couple of ridges and bumps, also at the throttle body end.

At the other end I opened some of the ports a tiny bit just to make them match the LIM better. If you put the UIM over the LIM and look down the LIM holes you'll see a slight mismatch. It may be worth improving this a little but you mustn't remove too much material or you could harm airflow.

You could also add a blanking plate for the EGR valve to prevent cack from coming back in.

Simon

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bobsy

Discussion Starter · #3 · Mar 2, 2010

nice photos. is the second one the EGR blanking plate? i haven't looked at my UIMN in a while, is this on the UIM where the EGR attaches? i can't remember!

does this not harm the running of the engine at all? what do you do with the EGR valve otherwise?

thanks,

bobsy

bobsy

Discussion Starter · #4 · Mar 2, 2010

oh i just realised photo 3 shows some filler in the three grooves where the TB attaches, this is what you meant above right? when i first took my TB off, those three ports and below it were totally blocked with carbon deposit. having never doe the job before, i thought this was supposed to be some sort of gasket (the carbon build up)!!

Simonty

· #5 · Mar 2, 2010

Haha, they do get dirty. Yes, 2nd pic is an EGR blanking plate.

Blocking the EGR valve will increase nitrous based emissions, which aren't considered so important in the UK (I don't think). The EGR system also theoretically improves fuel economy by cooling down the combustion process at partial throttle. It does this by reducing oxygen content in the combustion, which happens by inserting dirty exhaust gasses back into the inlet manifold. At full throttle it doesn't do anything... I think

Generally it's just an annoying system that dirties up our intakes and offers no real reward.

As for those 3 holes I blocked off - I've no idea if that was a good idea. It seemed a good move at the time but I'm not 100% sure what they really do!!!!

*dons flame-proof jacket*

sgking

· #6 · Mar 2, 2010

hey simonty i dont wanna worry you but what if some of that bodyfiller came loose and entered your intakes?

just a thought thats all!

Rich

· #7 · Mar 2, 2010

^Aye, I did say that at the time, Thankfully it's just filler, and would likely break up into small enough chunks to do no damage relatively quickly... still not advisable, mind.

--Rich

bobsy

Discussion Starter · #8 · Mar 3, 2010

Cool cheers.

What doe you use to clean the insides of the UIM and LIM? Pipe cleaners and brake cleaner?

and does anyone know what the three ports on the TB do..?

Bobsy

thegfb

· #9 · Mar 3, 2010

3in1 degreaser and carb cleaner on mine. I also got a pressure washer on/in the ports too, chunks of black crap flew out everywhere.

Gone2

· #10 · Mar 4, 2010

use petrol, its a lot cheaper than cleaner.

Simonty

· #11 · Mar 4, 2010

I used carb cleaner but would use petrol next time as it'll be nearly as good and MUCH cheaper.

I finished the job by running a hose through every port for a while till cr ap stopped flowing out.

As said before if you fill anything make sure you use a sensible product such as JB Weld, and make sure the metal is ultra clean and keyed to a rough surface to ensure a perfect bond.

I'll make the mistakes for others, at your service

Simon

Terry Haines

· #12 · Mar 4, 2010

I use acetone and a brass brush to remove the bad chunks and finish with a conventional carb cleaner..Acetone is cheap over here and does a good job on carbon etc..but do it outside!!

Simonty

· #13 · Mar 4, 2010

And a pipe cleaner in the runners?? Never really got into those myself.

Gone2

· #14 · Mar 4, 2010

how do u remove the vacum (sp) pipes from the UIM

sgking

· #15 · Mar 4, 2010

the two black ones?

hold the tabs down with screwdriver and pull upwards on the pipe.

warning - they can snap very easily so watch out. dont do it when they are cold as theres no give in tem. warm them up first.

Gone2

· #16 · Mar 4, 2010

ta :L

Terry Haines

· #17 · Mar 5, 2010

..Vac Line...
..spray round the 90 deg union with WD40..and LET IT SIT (this helps release the grip/drag on the 'O' ring seal).Press the black plastic collar around the 90 deg union..DOWN..as you do this..move the union side to side and pull up at the same time..WITH CARE..Plastic gets old,brittle and does not like the cold...When you clean the maniifold REMOVE the plastic collar AND 'O'ring from the vac connection points..replace after cleaning..easy eh!!

Gone2

· #18 · Mar 5, 2010

could i heat it up abit by running the engine for a few minutes, release the pipes then let it cool again before removing the UIM?

Terry Haines

· #19 · Mar 5, 2010

..could run the engine but a hair dryer on a med setting helps..but don't melt the plastic!!

sgking

· #20 · Mar 5, 2010

ye hair dryer as qucker and more effective

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