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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
when i'm braking at low speeds, when in town or approaching a junction or roundabout the brake pedal seems to be being 'pulled down' at the last minute, and a grinding noise comes from the front brakes, it doesnt happen all the time, and otherwise the brakes seem ok, front caliper springs are fitted correctly and pads been copper greased and appear free to move. any help be appreciated as been scratching head on this. thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
undid pins swung caliper up and took pads out, then wirebrushed crud off inside caliper and carrier where pads sit. was some black [email protected] on the 2x 7mm allen key slide bolts so cleaned off and greased them up too. the 2 pads fairly thick, but outside edge of pad seemed to have lip on like what you expect to see on disc. mine w plate 2.0 ghia and i very light brake user. i tried harsh braking today but no effect and it's intermittent but i reckon i can make it happen every time
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
all seems in order according to haynes and the 3 prev mondys i've had..
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
checked all tight and nothing missing, discs not bad, both pistons working, all springs there, bfacket wasnt loose, its just weird, tried just about everything i can think of bar new pads ahd discs. i wondered if was dirt as work driveway more muddy track, was gonna look at abs sensors and rings next as seemed cruddy, wondered if abs fault but light normal on dash.
 

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MEG Admiral
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I posted up with a problem like this years ago but can't find it. Every now and again I'd press the brake peddle and I could feel the car breaking (didn't feel correct) but then the brake peddle would drop an inch and the brakes would bite like they should. From what I can remember it was front tyres causing problems with the ABS,two new tyres sorted out my problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
only had some new rubber on front fitted (as 1 was kojak and the other deformed and kojak), about a month ago, it has been doing it a couple of months now, might try wheel swap front to back, see if makes any difference before getting more, i've never had this before even with £5 scrappy specials already on ford rims, i've currently got the std 15" alloys on, think 8 spoke but i've only ever had 14's on before in both steel and alloys... whats also even stranger is my workmates pug 406 has same symptoms, which is steering me towards the crud on abs rings theory as our work drive very much a dirt track... will bear your suggestion in mind though, thanks
 

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MEG Admiral
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only had some new rubber on front fitted (as 1 was kojak and the other deformed and kojak), about a month ago, it has been doing it a couple of months now, might try wheel swap front to back, see if makes any difference before getting more, i've never had this before even with £5 scrappy specials already on ford rims, i've currently got the std 15" alloys on, think 8 spoke but i've only ever had 14's on before in both steel and alloys... whats also even stranger is my workmates pug 406 has same symptoms, which is steering me towards the crud on abs rings theory as our work drive very much a dirt track... will bear your suggestion in mind though, thanks
The dirty sensors are a pretty common problem on the MK2. I had an early MK2 which ABS light was always coming on and was always sorted by taking the front weeks off and cleaning the rings and sensors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
i'm gonna try that tomorrow. mine one of the last few mk2's, believe it or not, no cracks in the bumpers! (til some [email protected] pops it in the supermarket car park like last one) the back end safeish coz of towbar/parking sensor, (thud!) :-D thanks for your help, mate, much appreciated
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
what u clean em with?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
will give it a go then, cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
after having taken wheels off i had a look at the abs rings, and cleaned em up a bit, with paintbrush as were cruddy, other than that they look fine no cracks or anything untoward so gave em a squirt of wd40 and squirted some in the sensor, and put back together and took for a quick spin, its still doing it. the other day i went for a jetwash and knelt down at front and squirted the hi pressure jet inside the wheel around the hub/rings/sensor. this seemed to cure it for about an hour so, but then the noise came back. i went down to the garage and asked if they any idea and they said maybe glazed pads? i not so sure as doesnt happen every time, only when slowing down 'covering brakes' at junctions and fine when under some pressure... am thinkin bout new discs and pads now to see if makes difference, but after that i out of ideas. :-(
 

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Little Megger
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siruncle

A few questions for you....

When the problem happens, is there any vibration through the brake pedal?
Does it feel like you are braking on ice when it happens?
When was the last time you changed the brake fluid, and what fluid did you use?
Is the ABS working (e.g in a 40mph practice emergency stop)? Does the car hold a straightish line?
Have you tried disconnecting the ABS (wheel speed) sensors and seeing if the problem still happens?
Does the brake pedal build up and hold pressure when pumped?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
thanks for your reply, and to answer your questions (in same order) yes a little vibration and pedal seems to come up a bit, yes i suppose does feel bit like braking on ice, i've not touched fluid only topped up when changed r caliper with proper spec stuff, abs seems fine in straight line emergency situ at 40 and 70 wheel hardly needs touching, not tried disconnecting sensors (was thinkin remove abs fuse???), and finally pressure on pedal normal build up and sucks down when start engine.
 

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Little Megger
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Pulling the ABS fuse is a good alternative to removing the ABS sensor.

From teh rest of your answers, my guess is that you've got a problem with one or more wheel speed sensors / wiring, or something's not right in the ABS modulator.
A brake stop with the ABS disconected will confirm.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
removed abs fuse (number 51, 60a) in engine box and drove home from work, everything was fine, was like it was just after christmas, no noise when slow speed braking no pedal 'upping' or anything, so looks like it is faulty sensor or module, had a quick feel up behind the front wheel arch liner and think i had my hands on a connector, would i be correct in assuming this? is there any way to test these little so and so's? i have an electric multimeter and some knowledge in its use... i think i'm gonna start with the sensors and hopefully its not the module as it looks a bit of a c**t to get off...
 

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Little Megger
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According to my usually wholly unreliable Haynes manual, to test a wheel speed sensor (WSS), disconnect it from the main wiring harness (quite simple to do), set a multimeter to measure AC volts and put across the two terminals of the WSS. Now spin the wheel. Depending on the speed of the wheel, Haynes says, that the output voltage should be between 1.5v and 2.0v.

I can think of a multitude of problems with using this as a test method, but hey. It's certainly worth a shot. While you're doing the test, try moving the wiring around a bit to check that it's in good condition....although this may result in losing a finger in the wheel, so be careful!

You may have found the WSS when you put your hand behind the wheel, or it may have been something like the brake pad warning wiring. Best way is to take a wheel off and have a look. The WSS wiring runs right into the hub.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I am pretty sure i've found the correct wire as it runs from the sensor touching the abs ring (held on by a small bolt possibly 7mm) and disappears behind the plastic wheel arch liner, mines only a ghia so has no brake pad sensors. Under the bonnet, a wire seems to join the loom near the strut but is wrapped up in that tape crap they use. i'm presuming the connector is stashed behind the liner as cant see anything else between the hub and i've looked at the sensors on e-bay (HOW MUCH for a new one!!!) the rears connect under the back seat so i believe, so checking them should be easy. i think the best course of action is to nip down my local breakers yard and have a look on one of their cars, and maybe grab a couple of decent looking ones off the newest car in the yard, i also wont need to take too much care in removing the liner, and, as they say, practice makes perfect... (probably) and go from there.
I totally agree with your haynes manual comment, i remember when you could literally strip your car down by one of them and put back together, but now there's no chance of that, there is no pic of my later fusebox layout or no mention of the later rear arb links, they both things i've looked for in it with no joy. :-( , of which used to be featured in a 'supplement' at the back. i'll let you know how i get on as it gonna be a weekend job. thanks for your input though, take care.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
just swapped both sensors on front to no avail, didn't buy new, found some good looking ones at breakers, changed one side, tried and changed other, absolutely no improvement, i also scraped the crud off the rings and shined up the outer surface, gonna get the meter on em tomorrow and see about output on all 4 wheels as i found connections under the seat. so todars word is bug*er... :-(
 
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