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Hiding under a Rock
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Aside from a fairly silly idea of putting it in place of front passenger seat (although this idea became slightly more appealing now I measured the length of the amp power cable I have - it's gonna be a bit short to reach the boot.),
These two are what I'm thinking.
A:


or
B:


The red line is the outline of MDF/plywood base, to be secured with bolts at the factory D ring locations (arrow). The factory D rings will be screwed on the MDF base, with factory carpet over - obviously there needs to be a cutout for the sub.
I'm unsure whether they sub/amp would be better as shown in the photos or its mirror image. If I need to carry super long (but skinny) stuff, I would normally fold down right hand seat and fully recline/push forward front passenger seat, putting stuff diagonally. If a bit stubby but shorter stuff, fold down left hand seat and put in there straight. I suppose I would take the sub/amp on the base out completely if I need to carry anything substantial. Option B is easier when sub needs to be taken out or spare wheel, but there is a step, which is not ideal. But it's attached to the car at only two points and footprint is half that of option A, when it's out of the car.
 

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dont listen to me, you'll have horsepower and
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I used a 12" subwoofer in my mk3 hatch, this was an active sub with built in amp.

I regularly carried big stuff that required my rear seats to be down.

To make my subwoofer easy to remove I used a plug like this....

Simply unplug, remove sub.
 

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Hiding under a Rock
Joined
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1,022 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I used a 12" subwoofer in my mk3 hatch, this was an active sub with built in amp.

I regularly carried big stuff that required my rear seats to be down.

To make my subwoofer easy to remove I used a plug like this....

Simply unplug, remove sub.
But you must've secured the sub in the boot somehow, as opposed to just let it sit there?
 

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dont listen to me, you'll have horsepower and
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3,518 Posts
Nope it literally sat in the corner up against the rear seats and despite how lively I drove (cornered and accelerated) it stayed where it was placed. If you wanted some extra support you used velcro tape on the underside of the box so it holds the boot carpet better but I never had an issue
 
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Sealed box, good man, ported boxes suck!

I have a twin 12" (partitioned inside and not one big box) sealed box across the back seat firing towards the boot and two 12" single sealed boxes in the tail light corners which fire into the middle.

Everything is held down with bungee straps on the tie down points the boot has.

make sure that box is properly sealed inside and also cut away a bit of carpet round the sub hole so you can get it properly sealed, the better sealed it is, the better it will sound, my boxes are 100% airtight :)

If you know the specs for your sub and the internal volume of the box is bigger than the manufacture specifies, i recommend adding ballast inside to reduce the internal volume, just make sure you allow for the displacement the sub body itself has in your calculations!
 

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If you only need to drop one side of the back seat, whats stopping you mounting the amp to the side that you dont drop down?
Being the left side, its also the side you would run your power cable.

If you need to drop the side the amp is on, just put a blanket over the amp to protect it.

You have bags of room in your motor, im jealous, if i had an estate i would be running six 12's or even six 15's :rolleyes:

This is how things are installed in my Hatchback Mondeo:
Two mono amps running @ 2ohms and 800w RMS each to feed the four 12's and a 4ch amp running @ 4ohms rear (100w RMS) and 2ohms front (150w RMS)
0 Gauge power cable to the boot then 4 Gauge from the splitters to the amps.

Car Vehicle Motor vehicle Hood Automotive lighting

Electrical wiring Audio equipment Gas Cable Electrical supply
 
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