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Megger
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What ho one and all,

Posted previous but not receiving a lot of response!

Am thinking of renewing the front suspension lower arms and on the rear, the front/rear lower arms and tie bars.

Based upon a reply to the thread Wobbling Crank Pulley, where it is recommended to use good quality parts, given that the only wearing parts of the suspension arms are the rubber bushes, what is the recommended make for quality replacements?

Ford or are they available from Jag? Or another brand?

Thanks and toodle pip
 

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Megger
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2,461 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Not exactly being inundated with the best buy suggestions, but this is a slightly different tack.

Having read and watched many wikis/ vid on renewing the front lower arms, the general suggestion is to remove the rear sub-frame bolt and on the opposite side, undo it by five revolutions. I believe this is to lower the s-f sufficiently to be able to access and replace the rear bolt?

But watching AutoDoc, he removes both rear s-f bolts and lowers the s-f while supporting it. Looks like it is lowered more that the prescribed five turns. When I get around to replacing mine, I will be doing both sides, so removing both bolts makes sense.

But does this put unnecessary pressure on the front s-f mounts / bolts or is it OK to do, on the assumption that the rear of the s-f is supported?

Next question, obviously a ball joint splitter is a good thing to have but can the taper be hit with a hammer to release it and / or forced open with a cold chisel?

Thanks and toodle pip
 

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Megger
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2,461 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Many thanks. Don 't have a pickle fork as SWMBO will not let me use the kitchen one. Guess it will be brute force without ignorance.
 

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Megger
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2,461 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
But I'm still left with, is there a recommended brand of front lower arm? Is there one that comes with poly bushes already fitted?
 

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Megger
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2,461 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Just watching a Chas Combes vid on upgrading the front sub-frame with poly bushes (
)

Would like to do that but don't think I can be bothered!!! Although in another vid, where he has replaced the front lower arms, and he lowered the s-f to extract the replace the rear arm bolt, on the above vid (about the 27 minutes mark), he is installing the bolts from the bottom with the nut at the top. Is there any reason not to do this?

It makes sense although I would hope that I will not have to replace the arm again for a long time.
 

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Megger
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2,461 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I'm with you on the fleaBay cheap and cheerful but my concern is that the quality of bits in this case, depends upon the quality of the bushes and cheap and cheerful could be c**p Chinese rubbish that will need replacing sooner rather than later. But what do I know?

Regarding the direction of the bolts, I will probably replace the rear front and back lower arms. On my car, the rear one (adjustable) had the bolt from the inside of the sub-frame so the adjustable nut is on the outside. But the front, the bolt was factory fitted from the outside and cannot be removed without dropping the s-f because the fuel tank is in the way.

I see no reason why the bolt should not be replaced from the inside, so in the future, it can be removed without dropping the s-f. Any reason why not do this?

The other side of the coin is that I have had the car since 2006 and has 200k on the clock. It is more likely that I may be pushing up daises before 400k comes around so may be I should not worry about which side the bolts are fitted!
 

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Megger
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2,461 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
My plan is to replace the front track control arms plus all the rear suspension arms. Don't think anything is wrong but some clunking when going over bumps leads me to believe that anything with new bushes will hopefully improve things.

But I am at a loss regards this issue of what to buy. Cheap and cheerful will probably have c&c bushes and ball joint. Are expensive, branded ones any better or is someone just profiting big time? Don't want to replace in 20k miles because they were c**p to start with, but don't want to spend a lot on something that could also be c**p and I will not know until too late.
 

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Megger
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2,461 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Interesting comments, thanks for your thoughts. My guess is that if I knew nothing and took her to a non-Ford garage and they changed the various arms, I would be happy not knowing what they put on. But I would certainly be charged for quality items!

So I will probably just put on a pair of the £70-80 arms and figure that these days, I am not covering so many miles and all will be fine for a few more years.

As for replacing what is worn, I am not sure that anything is worn, but there sounds some 'looseness' on the os front when going over lumps and bumps when the wheels are not straight ahead. So figure that something is worn, and although the ball joint seems OK, it could be the worn bushes. Likewise the rear arms, all still original. If there was an MOT advisory, I would have time to change, but if a fail, have to do it immediately. So figure I would second guess to be ahead of the game and the late Nov MOT.

Also, the ns front tire is slightly worn on the outer edge; probably an MOT advisory but likely caused by a worn something. If I need to change the arms and tires, then an alignment is required, so seems a good idea to replace the rear arms and only have one alignment cost.
 

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Megger
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2,461 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I know you are right. I do see Ridex frequently, any good?

I have been formulating a back-up strategy. Fit whatever, (may be c&c) and pry they will be OK. But if not, kinda refub the current arms by removing the bushes and ball joint, ready to replace with poly and a bolt-on joint. Then if (when?) the c&c fail, I will be good to go without too much additional expense.

I have read about fitting new bolts; is it really necessary? A good clean-up and a dob of thread lock and they should be good-to-go?
 

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Megger
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2,461 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
In searching for these and other parts, i am getting my knickers in a twist.

One ebay web site, lists so many track control arms that look right, but they are all Mk3 2.2 or 3.0 04 to 07 REBA (what is REBA?). Trying to find a 20. TDCI on this site involves endless scrolling, only to see the same things again and again, and all say, not compatible. Surely Ford would not have made dozens of slightly different control arms for every engine size, diesel or petrol and year? It does not make sense. Why would a Mk3 2.2D 04 to 07 not fit a 2003 2.0 TDCI?
 

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Megger
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2,461 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Thanks for the link and perhaps I am stupid but I cannot see where I enter a VIN
 

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Megger
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2,461 Posts
Discussion Starter · #22 ·
No worries and thanks. Unfortunately, it returns a Not Found result! Evidently my car does not exist!
 

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Megger
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2,461 Posts
Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Thanks. Now see that it was entirely my mistake; my VIN begins with WF05... I entered WE !!!!! And continued to try WE every time !!!! A real bozo moment.
 

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Megger
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2,461 Posts
Discussion Starter · #26 ·

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Megger
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2,461 Posts
Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Seller told me that the eBay compatibility chart is supplied from a different web site and is not so accurate. Have bought a pair of front control arms with new bolts.

Why should one use new bolts?

Now to look for a set of rear arms and bolts; again, why new bolts?
 

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Megger
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2,461 Posts
Discussion Starter · #30 ·
I just rinse them in botox for a nice cosmetic look!

Have to admit that I though it was perhaps they loose some of their structural integrity. But the wishbones will come with new, so job done. As I'm considering cutting the hydro bolt head so that I can remove from the bottom, that would definitley require a new bolt.
 

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Megger
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2,461 Posts
Discussion Starter · #31 · (Edited)
Have just taken delivery of the two front control arms and have a couple of questions. My existing (probably original Ford factory fitted) do not have any holes in them but the new ones have three on the top and two on the bottom. Whilst not a problem as such, i can see water splashing inside and causing rust. Is there something I can do? Seal the top with some kind of plastic plug?

Other versions shown on eBay do not have the holes in the top; don't know if they have holes in the bottom. i bought this set because not so expensive (£80 a Pair) and they came with the bolts.

Bicycle part Tire Rim Auto part Font
Automotive tire Hood Tire Bumper Material property


So neither mp4, mpg or avi files will attach!!! Message says the files do not have an allowed extension.
In both the hydro bush and pivot bush, the bolt has around a 1mm movement when I would have though it would be a tight (ish) fit. Is this correct? Loose rather than tight?
 

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Megger
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2,461 Posts
Thanks. never put anything on YouTube before; a learning curve. Presumably, it would be the same with DropBox?

Should the bolt be so loose? My feeling is no as this is a suspension part and everything should be tight.
 

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Megger
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2,461 Posts
Discussion Starter · #36 ·
As I said, a learning curve. In fact, I have no idea how I go from putting something on YT to giving a URL.. Is not the URL the same as just copying the http address?

Try again


I know that there is an upper and lower 'holder' which is part of the subframe, and perhaps the holes in that are the same as the bolt diameter, but surely the hydro bush should not be this loose? This could be the difference between a thump as one goes over a bump or no thump.
 
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