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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK, several people messaged me to say the pics were missing on my original tutorial, so I have re-written it as PhotoBucket have started charging to host images :angry:

Hope this helps some...

OK, I just fitted my Westfalia removable towbar on my Mk 4 Mondeo Titanium X and had a good look through the forums before I started - which helped enormously.

But I couldn't find a really clear idiots guide tutorial on how to get the rear bumper off as there was lots of conflicting information and poor terminology (in my mind), so I thought as I was doing the job I would take some pics which others may find helpful… so here goes;

FIRST OF ALL - MAKE SURE YOU RAISE THE BACK OF THE CAR AND SECURE IT SAFELY. IF YOU HAVE WHEEL RAMPS OR AXLE STANDS - PERFECT. IF NOT I SUGGEST BORROWING SOME - DO NOT DO THIS ON JACKS OR ON BRICKS… BRICKS CAN SHATTER WITH NO WARNING AND PARK YOUR 2 TON CAR ON YOUR HEAD - IF YOU HAVE TO, USE WOOD AS YOU MIGHT HEAR THIS SPLINTERING BEFORE IT COLLAPSES GIVING YOU TIME TO GET OUT!!

OK, mine is the 2008 5 door hatch 2.0D Titanium X… to remove the back bumper cover you need to take out 8 TORX screws, I think they are T25 but forgot to check, located here;

Nearside and offside wheel arch - 3 either side which join the bumper cover to the wheel arch linings;

1%20-%20torx%20screws.jpg


Two TORX screws located at the rear of the bumper visible when the tailgate is up - one on nearside, one of offside;

2%20-%20torx%20screw%20under%20tailgate.


After these, there are just two body clips underneath which hold the bumper cover to a couple of 'plastic blocks' which are pop riveted to the back panel and hold the lower section of the bumper cover steady and stop it flexing about. These are the plastic cross-head screws which screw into a plastic body clip and makes it expand - so carefully unscrew nearly all the way and just pull them out of the plastic block they are pressed into - they will probably stay in the bumper, which is OK;

3%20-%20under%20bumper%20fixings.jpg


Make sure you put these 8 screws & 2 body fixings somewhere safe!!!

Next unclip any wiring… my car has rear sensors which means that there are 3 cables to disconnect… one in the middle of the bumper fixed to the O/S under bumper fixing point. This has a release tab, which when you squeeze it allows the connector to be separated - it will be covered in muck so may need a bit of jiggling to free it;

3a%20-%20cabling.jpg


The next 2 loom connectors are much smaller and found on either side of the cover and are much smaller. These have a locking tab which I found slipping a small flat blade screw driver in releases the lock and again with a bit of jiggling they come apart;

3b%20-%20cabling.jpg


NOTE - you do not need to remove the sensors from the rear bumper cover (I only realised this after I removed mine :unsure:)

Now comes the fun part - you do have to be firm with this cover and it is definitely a two person job if you don't want to risk damaging it… around the arch on both sides you have to pull it firmly away from the bodywork as it is held on by press fit clips. Pull with a sharp motion and you will feel it snap out of the clips… ONLY do this on the two highlighted areas here;

4%20-%20snap%20points.jpg


Do NOT try and snap these fixings off on the vertical edge (see picture below), as this may break your bumper cover - once the snap points are done above the bumper will slide off from the rear and the highlighted fixings below will slide off the guides on the car;

5%20-%20do%20not%20snap%20points.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
OK... part 2... I had to split it 'cos of the number of pictures;

Get a friend to help slide the bumper off so there is the minimum of flexing and less chance of cracking the paint. It is not heavy at all, just bulky. Make sure you have a space cleared to carefully put it down. If yours has the painted bottom section (mine doesn't) then make sure you put a dust sheet down to protect the paint!

After these points have been done you should end up with a car that looks like this, although the more observant will spot your wiring loom connector probably doesnt come pre-installed with a rubber glove. I had to leave the job overnight so put the exposed loom in a glove to make sure it didnt get wet;

6%20-%20bumper%20cover%20off.jpg


And a bumper which looks like this;

7%20-%20bumper.jpg


Next remove the bumper which is held on with seven 13mm bolts… three on the passenger side and four on the drivers side;

8%20-%20bumper%20fixings.jpg


8%20-%20NS%20bumper%20fixing.jpg


Once these are undone the bumper comes away easily… you can now eBay this, throw it away, or (as I did) keep it safe so if you ever remove your towbar you can refit it!

Now you start fixing the towbar…

With the Westalia one I have, it slots into the now expose chassis and there is a fixing plate which rests on the outside of the chassis and six bolts are torqued to 62nm…

First slide the towbar in;

9%20-%20fit%20towbar.jpg


Now the tricky part - to fit the bolts on the nearside you will need to drop the rear section of the exhaust and the heatshield above.

You need to slip the rubber exhaust support off either the exhaust fixing point or off the fixing point on the car to allow it to drop;

10%20-%20exhaust%20rubber.jpg


The easiest way to remove this without damaging the rubber is to slip 3 or 4 screwdrivers between the metal bar and squirt a little WD40 on it then it slips off reasonably easily;

11%20-%20rubber.jpg


Once removed you can get to a 10mm bolt which is fixed in the N/S chassis. When this is removed, you can bend the headshield down to access the side of the chassis to get the bolts in;

12%20-%20heatshield%20bolt.jpg


Chassis plate above exhaust;

13%20-%20chassis%20plate.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Pt 3... the final outcome:

Once both the chassis plates are fitted, bolted up and torqued you should be able to put the car back together… to use the old Haynes motto - "refitting is the opposite of removal"

All in all a pretty simple job… took about 3 hours in all - just fiddly… but that said Ford have thought of everything - there will be no drilling needed and certainly I am happy with the end result;

14%20-%20towbar.jpg


15%20-%20no%20towbar.jpg


Well, thats about it - I hope someone finds this useful :biggrin:

Very pleased - in all it cost £100 for the towbar & dedicated electrics, £16 shipping and about £10 for some bits and bobs... so a decent job for only £126 - my local stealer quoted between £600 - £800 about a year ago!!

Enjoy
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Oh - I have also made a PDF version of this which I am happy to send to anyone who would like it... I just ask that you credit me if sharing it :lol:

Contact me via PM with your email address if you want me to send a copy!
 

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Just added a link to this in your orginal thread.
 

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Pt 3... the final outcome:

Once both the chassis plates are fitted, bolted up and torqued you should be able to put the car back together… to use the old Haynes motto - "refitting is the opposite of removal"

All in all a pretty simple job… took about 3 hours in all - just fiddly… but that said Ford have thought of everything - there will be no drilling needed and certainly I am happy with the end result;
14%20-%20towbar.jpg


15%20-%20no%20towbar.jpg


Well, thats about it - I hope someone finds this useful :biggrin:

Very pleased - in all it cost £100 for the towbar & dedicated electrics, £16 shipping and about £10 for some bits and bobs... so a decent job for only £126 - my local stealer quoted between £600 - £800 about a year ago!!

Enjoy
 

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Hi slimat I’m new here and I’m due to collect my new mondeo this Saturday and was just wondering where you got your towbar and wiring kit from please
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hi James - I found a guy on eBay who had just had it fitted and a short while after someone wrote the car off - so he was trying to recoup his losses!!

Cheers

Sent from my SM-G930F using TalkFord.com mobile app
 
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