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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2005 Mondeo 130 TDCI

Has anyone successfully cleaned the internals of an electronic turbo actuator? Any tips?

I've got fault code p132b and flashing flow light. Disconnected the actuator arm from the turbo and the turbo operates when the actuator arm is moved manually.

Cheers

M
 

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Yes someone did it recently whilst still on the car, I did wonder if it could be done.

It seemed too much risk of dropping small parts to me.

Take it off, Strip it down on the bench and clean it then refit, Or fit a 2nd hand or recon turbo.

Is the arm free to move on the turbo side when you take it off the actuator or does it stick in places?
 

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Megger
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i took mine off and used the inotec turbo cleaner in it. and it worked. the arm moved but was stiff at points, after doing that i put it back on and it was fine. had alot of smoke out of the exhaust till i took it for a good run
 

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Not so Little Megger anymore
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I did that variable vanes cleaning whilst turbo was on the car and P132b had been successfully solved. It is not so complicated as it seems. Removing and cleaning the whole turbo out of the engine should be done by mechanic and my way is much easier cause it can be done by yourself and you have much less job to do.

Here is tutorial http://www.talkford....__fromsearch__1

Just be careful and nothing bed gonna happened.

No cleaner will solve it mate. You must remove it and clean.
 
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Yeah, Dont buy the spray cleaners that are sprayed into the turbo of engine etc.

It needs to come apart to clean it properly.
 

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Megger
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the cleaner resolved mine, but then i took the turbo off turned it upside down and let it soak in the stuff overnight. that was 20,000 miles ago and has worked since.
but i agree spraying stuff in the air intake or in the turbo whilst on the car is useless
 

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MEG Corporal
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boj above is very modest about his ability.... it is an extremely dainty operation to do this in position and dropping parts etc ..would be a major poss;i agree with purple it is infinitely easier to take to body of the turbo out . heck its only there bolts and releasing a few clips and oil feed and return .. the last time we took a turbo body out it took about ten to fifteen minutes tops to take out . and then you can bring it in to you garage of kitchen table and work in comfort on it . You might also take a butchess in your loca scrappie for a cheep replacement turbo which would be a good implant whilst yu were refurbishing the turbo l sssssss #Also the electronic actuator or control box on the other end of the control arm on these can give problems also so it might be a good idea to take the intire unit off and have it checked fo replaced with a complete replacement unit depending on availability ..s
 

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Not so Little Megger anymore
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I am not modest but more I was frightened by two of my friends experiences about the broken bolts of the turbo housing in the cylinder head while they tried to get the turbo out of car. After all some mechanics gave me pretty high price for the operation of the cleaning vanes in that way (they are charging removing and putting it in back) so I decided to do it with my friend as it shown in the thread. He is pretty experienced mechanic for Fords and he also says this is the easier way. Of course he thought it will be nightmare also as some people here cause of the small parts who could be found in the turbo housing but in the end just an ordinary patient and focused man do that without any troubles so he will do that way every Mondeo with sticky turbo vanes.
 

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Worst case, You drop something and it falls into the CAT or exhaust,

Problem is they bits are not magnetic so you cannot fish it out with a magnet. I think he mentions that in his original post?
 

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Not so Little Megger anymore
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In fact you really have to be so "lucky" to loose that parts into the manifold or cat. Believe me.
Any way there is almost no possibility for that and could come about during the getting out the variable geometry phase.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Cheers fellas but I don't think it's the turbo itself. I disconnected the actuator arm from the electronic unit and when I moved it manually, the turbo fuctions and there is no resistance at all on the arm. I think that the problem is in the small electronic actuator box. I took it off this evening and gave the contacts and circuit board a good clean (though it all looked in good condition anyway) and check all the plastic gears etc for wear - it all looks fine and nothing is visibly burt out.
I pulled off error code "p132b fined" on Formidable which I understand points to an actuator fault so i might send it away to be checked/repaired.
 

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Mine was 132B and it was the turbo itself. Was the arm floppy and will fall when lifted slightly?

Mine had slight resistance in certain spots. Which got worse.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Mine was 132B and it was the turbo itself. Was the arm floppy and will fall when lifted slightly?

Mine had slight resistance in certain spots. Which got worse.
Yes, arm is completely floppy with no resistance or sticky spots. When I clear the fault codes (the same code is stored twice), it comes back straight away without the actuator moving at all which makes me think that its the electronics. The fault is also the same with the lead to the actuator disconected. Does anyone know why the code comes up as "P132b fined" adnd not just P132b?
 

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Not so Little Megger anymore
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Actuator should move the lever in the moment you turn the ignition on. If don't do that than you will have to replace it or whole turbo....

I think someone mentioned there are a company who fix those actuators so you might call them to see if they can help you with it. New turbo is small fortune.
 

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Dodgy geezer on ebay who charges £200+ and doesnt replace any parts??



Plenty of posts on this, Do a search and you will find pictures of the insides and the pins that lose connection.

Tv repair shop or other electrical place should sort you out for a couple of £.

Boxes fetch silly money on ebay.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Car seems to be fixed. Fingers crossed it stays this way.
Soldered the loose connection on the circuit board of the actuator and the car has finally come out of limp mode.
Solder joint failed in same place as this link http://www.talkford.com/topic/184102-code-p132b-and-flashing-glow-plug-light/

Was told by 2 garages that I needed a new turbo at a cost of £1100 fitted (or £200 labour to fit a recon one).
Total cost of my repair: Solderig iron £8, Solder £5, Code reader from ebay £20, WD40 contacts cleaner £7 = £40

Thanks for everyone's help!
MC
 

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Almost a bargain


Invoice for £1060 on its way ;D
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
My soldering only held for a couple of days so I got someone else who knows more about soldering to have a go. He said that the existing surface wouldn't tin so he took the scraped the shiny contacts back to bare copper and remade the link with a new piece of wire. Lets hope its a good fix!
 

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MEG Corporal
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Again congrats to Bojcistv..and his firend for giving us such a detailed walk through the delicate opperation .the picture clarity is so good you could almost lift a print off his hand on one shot . brilllant shots on the stage by stage work through .. again congrats and thanks to Boj. this is a real candidate for a stickey for anybody feeling adventurous enough to tackle this tricky jobbie..s
 

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you are welcome mate
 
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