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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone,

Been suffering from the P132B sticky vanes issue and today set about getting the turbo cartridge off the car to clean the vanes/ pins/mechanism as a whole, as described in

http://www.talkford.com/topic/195831-how-to-clean-vnt-turbo-without-unomounting-completely-turbocharger-of-the-car/

Got to the point where it's supposed to come out - and I can't shift it.

The six bolts are out, the oil feed pipe is off and there's nothing, apparently, to stop it coming out (apart from the oil return pipe, which I was inyending taking off once I can move thge thing and see what I'm doing...)

It appears that it's a tight push fit in the main manifold/housing (arrowed, on pic.) I've tried penetrating oil, hitting it with a block of wood and hammer etc., but it's stuck solid.

I don't want to be too heavy handed, in case I damage the cartridge body.

Any ideas anyone?
 

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Well you could just leave it on and free the vanes by moving the actuator/ lever back and fourth
or
Hit it even harder / lever it with a crow bar (carfully/ supporting the compressor housing)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Did that in the end (and noticed a small crack forming on the cast body, where it joins the cartridge, so gave that up - did it before I read your suggestion, so my fault) noticed around that time though, that the actuator had freed up. Worked it backwards and forwards and it's free enough now.

F***ing car - I hate the bitch almost as much as my ex.
 

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Update:

Well got everything back together, finally, cleared the fault code(s) and gave it a drive. Not perfect (still lumpy tickover and feels a bit fuel starved) but no glow plug light and no more fault codes when I got back.
However, for anyone considering cleaning the turbo as detailed at

http://www.talkford....ger-of-the-car/

I'd give it some serious thought. You may be lucky (but then again if you were lucky you wouldn't own a fekin' mondeo, nor would you be looking at these posts) and once the six bolts holding the turbo body onto the manifold are out (at least two of which are an absolute pain to get to,) you may be able to just pull it away and separate the two halves.

But remember that
before you get to that stage, you'll probably have to remove the air cleaner housing, various vacuum pipes, connectors, the actuator, the oil feed pipe (which gets in the way of one of the six bolts,) the bracket holding the actuator onto the turbo housing, etc., etc., all of which will take you some time....

Only to find the two halves are almost welded together and nothing on this earth is going to shift them, short of using a blowtorch and lots of patience - which you'd have to be a certified lunatic to try, whilst on the car. I now have a cracked turbo housing and apart from gaining a bit of experience, the whole exercise was a total waste of time. To summarise - I wouldn't bother. Take my advice, gained from bitter experience:

1) Jack the car up, take the cat off, and do whatever you have to do from under the car to access the manifold bolts (some suggest taking the alternator off, but since I didn't do it that way, I'm not sure) remove the oil feed and return pipes, boost hose etc, and do it that way. At least then, if the two halves are stuck solid, you can take your time and use heat as well as persuasion all around the rim - rather than just at one point, which is your only choice, if the thing is still on the car.

2) Follow Mk3_Turbo's advice and just waggle the sodding actuator arm over and over... eventually, it should free, and your problems are over at least for a while.
3) Follow dazwesh's advice and use the caustic soda option (oven) cleaner injected in via the cat/manifold joint.

4) Follow my advice.. Get rid of the bar steward. This mother-*****er is going at the first opportunity.

Fifth Ford. Last Ford.
 

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MEG Corporal
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I had to use heat on my turbo to split the cartridge from the housing. Was corroded together. Had to get the "hot hammer" on to it.
Spear the faces with copper slip and if you need to take it apart again it *might* come apart without being such a snot backsided piece of rubbish.
I ended up taking the whole manifold off as the hot hammer I had use of was several miles down the road. Thankfully when the manifold was off last time all the bolts etc were copperslipped so they all came out with relative ease.
 

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Little Megger
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If you have cracked the compressor housing, I have a spare, as for getting it off, it should come off ok, mine took a few taps and wiggles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks both of you... (If I still own the sod by then) I know I'm going to have to use lots of heat - there's no other way, so the manifold'll have to come off, as you say. Should have done that in the first place - cast iron and brute force don't mix well...

ksmiggy - Mine's Garrett M24 EC-2 (not sure if interchangeable with EC-3)

If it is..... 1) whereabouts are you and 2) How much do you want for it?

Whether it fits or not, thanks for the offer - I'm pulling my hair out with this ********* car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
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When it come to this car mate - my luck never varies.

I've managed to find a few items on other forums, regarding the same thing - apparently you need to soak them overnight in deisel to free them when they've siezed. But then afterwards, according to the item, you still need to belt the cast iron part to separate them.

Which is exatly what I did - and not very hard!
 

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MEG Corporal
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Mine was soaked in wd40 left for several days. Stil having none of it on the car. Was suprising how little it had penetrated when it was heated.
 

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Little Megger
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am in Leic pal and if you've cracked yours so it's leaking, then have it, it's sat in my garage doing nothing, the shaft snapped on that one, guess i was very lucky, a few twists and wiggles and out it came.

that's a point in fact, dont just work on hitting it to get it off, twist it round too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hi ksmiggy

Very decent of you mate. I was about to pay £25 plus postage for one off Ebay - but the guy wouldn't confirm that the cast iron part that fits into the main body was included, and his was M24 EC-3...whereas mines EC-2 ( not sure if they're compatible.)

But though I was near Leicester a couple of weeks ago, it'll be months before I'm down there again, so picking it up would be a bit awkward in my missus' car (1300 automatic!!)

I could send you a box with some packing material and get DHL or so to pick it up, if that would work? You're welcome to the £25 - it's what I was going to pay anyway, and I'd feel better about it too.

Keith ([email protected])
 

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euro 3 and euro 4 outer covers are different, There are no holes to bolt the vacuum cylinder onto.

The flanges are there but its not drilled through and threaded.

Do you need a euro 4 cover?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
It's Euro 4 with Electronic actuator - marked 'M24 EC-2' But that part (the alloy part) is ok - it's the cast iron part between the alloy part and the main body (manifold) that's got a small crack in it. I'll photograph it when I get chance... it's not a massive crack and there doesn't seem to be any leak or anything - but I'm not happy with it.
 

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Oh, The actual turbo cartridge. Oh dear.

Complete new or recon cartridge units on ebay.

I do wonder if they are cheap chinese units though.
 

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Little Megger
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I think the cast section is the same, not sure though, if it is and you need one to send of for exchange, let me know, got a dead one without cracks you can have.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Purple - I don't think that's the actual cartridge - rather the cast iron bit.

I see your opinion of chinese manufacturing matches mine. Usually crap. Same experience when I worked for Persimmons - cheap Chinese door handles and other ironmongery: screws with no heads/threads, soft steel which rounded at the first bit of pressure, odd configuration - neither phillips nor pozi, bits missing, instructions in wierd English, and so on and so on... used to spend more time trekking back to the store for replacements than actually fitting the blasted things.

Whilst checking on line for injectors the other day, came across quite a few Chinese ads. No f****ing chance!

It's telling that all the posh nobs in China drive Mercs - not Chinese cars.
 

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Little Megger
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It will still need a refurb, no doubt bearings etc, but am assuming it's still cheaper to have one to send off than not have one to send off and just have to buy one outright, so if you want it, it's yours, as for what you were going to pay the other guy, it's sat in my garage doing nothing and worth nothing as far as am concerned.
If it is useful in any way, you can have it, will sort it out when you return.
 
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