Yeah basically the head unit doesn’t have RCA output so that forced me to do an High Level input connection, the sub is 150W RMS and I took the power straight from the battery, connected the sub to the front speakers wire (close to the head unit), when the radio is turned on the Sub gets signal from the speakers wires and it also turns on (when the head unit is off also the Sub is off)!
I know they are not amazing but it improved the depth of the sound quite a bit, I’ve gone this way as I didn’t want to put anything in the boot, as I often use it all (I have an estate)!
I’ve also changed the speakers and put 4x Clarion srg6833 C, the sound improved but not as much as I was hoping, probably as you said I better go for an aftermarket headunit!
Check daily on facebook marketplace, you will find an old but high end headunit locally for very little if you are patient, ebay is also full of them but at a higher price than you can get off FB marketplace.
Make sure you research the model before buying and make sure it has 4v or higher on the line outs and that it has front/rear AND sub out along with making sure its got a decent crossover and ideally EQ controls and not just bass and treble control.
sounds like a lot to ask but there are many decent older units out there with all of those.
My system is not from FB and everything was bought new but i keep an eye on whats on there and see a lot of stuff thats decent for peanuts.
My subs get fed 1600w rms of my systems power, it punches a little ha ha
In my rear doors i have 150w rms Kicker 6x9 components and the tweeters are mounted on the middle pillar by the roof, aimed at the center of the rear screen, they get fed 100w rms per channel.
I have 150w rms round 6" components in my front doors and 3" Compression driver tweeters on my dash in 3D printed pods, they get fed 150w rms per channel, compression driver tweeters dont sound as good as dome tweeters but boy do they pump out the treble!
My headunit is a Sony touchscreen with all the controls you really need like crossovers, EQ, time alignment ect and has 6v line outs but for many years i was very happy with my Sony CDX-F7700 which had much the same audio control set but with 4v preouts and in a single din form factor and has a really nice Blue Florescent dot matrix display which looks cool when displaying the graphic equalizer dancing to the music rather than the tacky animations it can also do, i still have that as a backup as its a decent unit and will go back in as a temp thing should my current one die.
My amps are all Class D Pioneer, two Mono amps running @ 2 ohms and one 4ch running @ 4 ohms rear and 2 ohms front.
Class D is great for Subs but for Mid/High use, the sound quality is not as good as Class A/B but efficiency is much better than A/B and i am already exceeding my cars electrical capacity and kill alternators in very little time lol.
The 0 gauge power cable needed to drive my system was a nightmare to run, it barely fits under the plastics!
