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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Guys, I want to fit one of those subwoofers that goes under the seat!

Just wandering if anyone knows to which wires I have to connect the High level input and the wire that gives power to the stereo!

I have a 2003 facelift Estate Mondeo with the 6000CD unit!

Thanks
 

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Just checking, you plan to used the ignition switched live to the headunit as a remote turn on for the sub which will be powered from another source and your not planning on trying to power it from the same power that feeds the headnunit right?

Personally i wouldn't bother getting one of those low profile subs, they are terrible, a single 12 in the boot powered by a proper amp will output at least 4x more bass than one of those under seat subs, they are terrible.

I wouldn't bother adding anything to the junk ford headunit either, you can get half decent used single Din headunits for peanuts on Facebook Marketplace which will sound a million times better plus will have Line Outs and not force you to wire ghetto style to speaker lines which is a horrible thing to do.

You can also pick up Subs and amps for virtually nothing if you check FB Marketplace daily and be patient, you can build something half decent very cheaply.

Whatever you install now, make sure you have future upgrades in mind, i promise you will want to upgrade in very little time and you will be buying a second time to replace it if you install what your thinking of, you dont have to spend a fortune but an under seat sub wired to the speaker lines of a factory headunit really isn't worth the money it will cost.

Of course, i would encourage going all the way and running a 2100w rms system with four 12's like i do but thats a whole different wallet and alternator bashing territory lol.
 

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Hi

You may get better results swapping out the door speakers. My MK3 had a good system with the Denso head unit but previous ST200 with a 6000CD was vastly improved with replacement speakers. I think they may have been Pioneer direct replacements for Ford & Mazda models.

Peter
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Just checking, you plan to used the ignition switched live to the headunit as a remote turn on for the sub which will be powered from another source and your not planning on trying to power it from the same power that feeds the headnunit right?

Personally i wouldn't bother getting one of those low profile subs, they are terrible, a single 12 in the boot powered by a proper amp will output at least 4x more bass than one of those under seat subs, they are terrible.

I wouldn't bother adding anything to the junk ford headunit either, you can get half decent used single Din headunits for peanuts on Facebook Marketplace which will sound a million times better plus will have Line Outs and not force you to wire ghetto style to speaker lines which is a horrible thing to do.

You can also pick up Subs and amps for virtually nothing if you check FB Marketplace daily and be patient, you can build something half decent very cheaply.

Whatever you install now, make sure you have future upgrades in mind, i promise you will want to upgrade in very little time and you will be buying a second time to replace it if you install what your thinking of, you dont have to spend a fortune but an under seat sub wired to the speaker lines of a factory headunit really isn't worth the money it will cost.

Of course, i would encourage going all the way and running a 2100w rms system with four 12's like i do but thats a whole different wallet and alternator bashing territory lol.
Yeah basically the head unit doesn’t have RCA output so that forced me to do an High Level input connection, the sub is 150W RMS and I took the power straight from the battery, connected the sub to the front speakers wire (close to the head unit), when the radio is turned on the Sub gets signal from the speakers wires and it also turns on (when the head unit is off also the Sub is off)!
I know they are not amazing but it improved the depth of the sound quite a bit, I’ve gone this way as I didn’t want to put anything in the boot, as I often use it all (I have an estate)!
I’ve also changed the speakers and put 4x Clarion srg6833 C, the sound improved but not as much as I was hoping, probably as you said I better go for an aftermarket headunit!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hi

You may get better results swapping out the door speakers. My MK3 had a good system with the Denso head unit but previous ST200 with a 6000CD was vastly improved with replacement speakers. I think they may have been Pioneer direct replacements for Ford & Mazda models.

Peter
Hi,

Yeah I did bought the speakers as well (4x Clarion srg6833 C) the sounds got a little better but was still lacking on the bottom end, so I opted for the Sub, probably will be a good idea to swap the headunit too!
 

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Yeah basically the head unit doesn’t have RCA output so that forced me to do an High Level input connection, the sub is 150W RMS and I took the power straight from the battery, connected the sub to the front speakers wire (close to the head unit), when the radio is turned on the Sub gets signal from the speakers wires and it also turns on (when the head unit is off also the Sub is off)!
I know they are not amazing but it improved the depth of the sound quite a bit, I’ve gone this way as I didn’t want to put anything in the boot, as I often use it all (I have an estate)!
I’ve also changed the speakers and put 4x Clarion srg6833 C, the sound improved but not as much as I was hoping, probably as you said I better go for an aftermarket headunit!
Check daily on facebook marketplace, you will find an old but high end headunit locally for very little if you are patient, ebay is also full of them but at a higher price than you can get off FB marketplace.

Make sure you research the model before buying and make sure it has 4v or higher on the line outs and that it has front/rear AND sub out along with making sure its got a decent crossover and ideally EQ controls and not just bass and treble control.

sounds like a lot to ask but there are many decent older units out there with all of those.

My system is not from FB and everything was bought new but i keep an eye on whats on there and see a lot of stuff thats decent for peanuts.

My subs get fed 1600w rms of my systems power, it punches a little ha ha :)

In my rear doors i have 150w rms Kicker 6x9 components and the tweeters are mounted on the middle pillar by the roof, aimed at the center of the rear screen, they get fed 100w rms per channel.

I have 150w rms round 6" components in my front doors and 3" Compression driver tweeters on my dash in 3D printed pods, they get fed 150w rms per channel, compression driver tweeters dont sound as good as dome tweeters but boy do they pump out the treble!

My headunit is a Sony touchscreen with all the controls you really need like crossovers, EQ, time alignment ect and has 6v line outs but for many years i was very happy with my Sony CDX-F7700 which had much the same audio control set but with 4v preouts and in a single din form factor and has a really nice Blue Florescent dot matrix display which looks cool when displaying the graphic equalizer dancing to the music rather than the tacky animations it can also do, i still have that as a backup as its a decent unit and will go back in as a temp thing should my current one die.

My amps are all Class D Pioneer, two Mono amps running @ 2 ohms and one 4ch running @ 4 ohms rear and 2 ohms front.

Class D is great for Subs but for Mid/High use, the sound quality is not as good as Class A/B but efficiency is much better than A/B and i am already exceeding my cars electrical capacity and kill alternators in very little time lol.

The 0 gauge power cable needed to drive my system was a nightmare to run, it barely fits under the plastics!
 
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