okies , still seems very light to me all the same :shifty: , i reckon a bit of threadlock wouldnt go amiss as well , in fact if it was me i would be using threadlock for an extra bit of piece of mind :L
just re read your post , i rember doing the bearing caps , they are deffo 10NM , also rember to do them up in the right order so you dont put to much presure on one spot , before you put the caps on , coat them in oil , so they wont mark on the first 2 secs of start up.
dont use any lock tight on them , i have about 3-4 diffrent torque wrenches in the gargue as some are so light ( etc bearing caps ) you need a very light guage on to work :L
Finger tight,
not too tight,
fairly tight,
quite tight,
really tight,
damned tight,
f****** tight,
absolutely b****** unbelievable tight.
The last two are alternatively know as "siezed" and "rusted to f***". Wheel nuts are normally done up to "really tight", and I think your 10nm falls into the "not too tight" category. Anyway, yes, I'd use a wee bit of loc tite thread locking compound too.
ITs all back together now, done to Ford spec (apart from the obvious torque settings). Dont really need to use loctite on the bearing caps as there is no great vibration to shake them loose. Doesnt specify loctite on the assy list so i left it.
Thanks for everyones help and i did like the quotes on the last post about tightness...
thats a tricky one to do on the UIM , well on most Cam Head Covers too , etc at 10nm is very very light , but trying to torque up 10nm on a rubber presure washer ( ie UIM on V6 ) is a pig as the rubber will move that presure away etc.
if you broke your bolts on the uim they either must had been stupidly tight or you done them up with a heavey hand
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