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v6 timing

1598 Views 8 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  MONDYMANv6
Can some-one tell my how to tell if my timing marks are in alignment on my v6 auto, without taking off the TIMING COVER.I know i will have to take off the cylinder head covers.I have asked 2 mobile mechanics to have a look at my non-starting car and no-one has been to it(I think the job scares them,[:0)])thanks for your help
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Click the link to the post on ST Drivers...

V6 Timing Link
Why do you think your timing is out Captsensible, have you or someone just done a big job and now it wont start, or has it just stopped etc, as if its just stopped it would be very unlikely any thing to do with timing as in ' slipped ' unless you have had a failed on one of the cam shafts etc.

Again you need to see the faces of the cams to see if your timing is Wright, look at my post I done years ago to know how to check or do the timing on the v6:

Click me

You could take the rockers off make sure there is no lobe or cam damage, and remove your plugs and see which piston is a TDC at the time and see if your lobe’s are not pushing down on the valves etc but this would not really show up a minor timing fault etc.

You say it wont start have you checked the simple things first like do you have spark, and fuel.

Any more info you can post?

Ryan.
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Hi, the reason that i want to check the timing, without a complete stripdown is because i thought my chain(s) had snapped.
what happened was i was getting a juddering from the car as if it was misfiring, then one morning i went to start the car and just before it fired, there was a crunching noise then the car made a whirring sound,simalier to a snapped cambelt. I have removed the front cover and sparkplugs and the chains look tight and ok also the sparkplugs were not damaged, when i turn the engine by hand there is no tight spots so i thought it must be something else so rebuilt it back up.
When i went to start it, it was turning over but would not fire, so i tried one of the old spark plugs and there waqs a bright spark.
I then took the caps of the battery and found that the first and last cells were dry so filled them with distilled water, i am thinking that the battery may be out its way out but don't really want to take it off the car as i don't want the ecu to be wiped out in case the is a fault that can piont me in the direction of my non-starting.Sorry if this is long-winded
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TDC #1 Cylinder and marks on FRONT of cams...each bank should have 10 FULL CHAIN LINKS between each cam...
Captsensible said:
Hi, the reason that i want to check the timing, without a complete stripdown is because i thought my chain(s) had snapped.
what happened was i was getting a juddering from the car as if it was misfiring, then one morning i went to start the car and just before it fired, there was a crunching noise then the car made a whirring sound,simalier to a snapped cambelt. I have removed the front cover and sparkplugs and the chains look tight and ok also the sparkplugs were not damaged, when i turn the engine by hand there is no tight spots so i thought it must be something else so rebuilt it back up.
When i went to start it, it was turning over but would not fire, so i tried one of the old spark plugs and there waqs a bright spark.
I then took the caps of the battery and found that the first and last cells were dry so filled them with distilled water, i am thinking that the battery may be out its way out but don't really want to take it off the car as i don't want the ecu to be wiped out in case the is a fault that can piont me in the direction of my non-starting.Sorry if this is long-winded
The trouble is if it has slipped has any damaged been done, i was working on a mgf few weeks ago doing a full rebuild new pistons big ends etc etc due to a none starting prob, it turned out the roll pin that locks the cam sprocket in place had slipped and kinked a inlet and ext valve on cylinder one and just would not go, if this could be the same type of prob maybe?

All so do what Terry says and count the links round the sproket but for a chain to snap this would be a first one i have known to go, more chance of a slip due to a tensioner fail.

If you are getting a good spark and fuel from the injectors, and your car stopped working and there was a crunch there could be a good chance something has gone.

If so i would remove all ht leads, remove one spark plug at a time and place a compressor gauge and crank the engine at W.O.T and make sure you have psi in all cylinders, if you are reading 0psi on 1 or a few this could indicate you slipped and dinked a valve, if not.....

i would be looking at removing a few this like crank pulley, engine mount etc etc so you can remove your side v cam chain cover off the side of the engine, and the rocker cover and check your timing from there.

I know when your v6 goes to start the hydraulic chain tensioners do rely on a stiff spring to hold the tensioner tight on the chain until your oil pressure has built up, maybe this has failed and caused it to slip on both or 1 cam bank maybe?

Have you got ok oil pressure as well so the oil can hold the tensioners ok?

Just trying to work though a few things to get a better idea as its hard to explain the things i would try without seeing the cars engine etc, please rely to my post to see if any of the above makes any sense.

Ryan.
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Thanks to everyone who replied to my question. I do not know what i have done except change the battery but my car now starts yeppeh.
The only downside is that the car is reluctant to go into reverse gear but will if I press hard on the accelerater.
I did not touch any part of the gearbox,OBTW it's an auto. So am I right in thinking that taking the battery off I have wiped the memory from the ecu and this also controls the gear selection,just a thought if so i shall have to just take it for a drive.
Once again thanks to everyone and also mondyman for the link, it should prove useful when I ever need to strip it down again lol.
Valve timing..counting links.
This is an easy way for all..
*Engine on TDC #1 cylinder*Crank gear keyway approx 10 o/clock and mark on gear at around 5 o/clock*Use maks on FRONT face of cam gears*Tooth count (full links) between marks.*Tight side chain..from cam to crank(not the tensioner run) is 23 Chain links*Slack side run from crank to cam via tensioner side is 25 Links*Between cam marks is 10 links..easy eh!..Just be sure you are on TDC #1...
Captsensible said:
Thanks to everyone who replied to my question. I do not know what i have done except change the battery but my car now starts yeppeh.
The only downside is that the car is reluctant to go into reverse gear but will if I press hard on the accelerater.
I did not touch any part of the gearbox,OBTW it's an auto. So am I right in thinking that taking the battery off I have wiped the memory from the ecu and this also controls the gear selection,just a thought if so i shall have to just take it for a drive.
Once again thanks to everyone and also mondyman for the link, it should prove useful when I ever need to strip it down again lol.
Glad you have sorted your porb, is it still running ok?

Ryan.
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