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Megger
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241 Posts
So for the first time since I got the car there is an inch of water in the passenger foot well.

Read a few posts stating the pollen filter housing seal disintegrates over time, so thought I'd have a look and take pics while at it.

First off torx driver for the plastic trim/grill assembly vent that screws to the body and clips to the bottom of the windscreen.

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Leave the wipers in the up position to make things easier. If the grill assembly hasn't been off before it will be well gunged in position so might be an idea to remove the wipers from their splined shafts.

Remove the centre steel piece with 1 x torx screw dead centre.

Then remove 2 x torx screws from each half of the grill assemblies.

I only removed the one side (passenger)

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Take care removing not to kink or fold/bend the hard plastic strip that clips to the bottom of the screen and to the grill/assembly cos it is in one piece across the windscreen.

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The plastic grill has a rubber seal bonded to it where the plastic strip clips.

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Exposed Pollen filter

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Megger
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241 Posts
Now remove the filter and the filter housing. One nut (13mm a/f) is outside the housing the other inside. The wiring loom is clipped to the housing and the weight tends to pull the housing down and away from its top sealing face.

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Once the housing is removed the seal area can be seen. This one was split and broken and didn't resist the housing being moved off the bulkhead.

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The amount of "soil" (decomposed organic stuff like leaves etc) and crap in the gutter beneath the wiring loom was causing the level of water to rise above the heater air intake grill.

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Cleaned out...

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Clean all the remains of the foam seal away and dry.

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Clean the back of the housing seal face. I used bathroom sealant as that's what I had and it's waterproof.

Apply very very thick bead to both mating faces as the housing isn't very rigid and bowed slightly without foam to take the gap. Double sided double glazing window tape might work but would need to be a couple of strips thick and that stuff sticks first time so not much room for error.

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Screw the housing up ensuring sealant squidges out. Wipe off excess. Fit filter and clip harness back trying to keep as much weight off the housing as poss.

Clean the plstic strip grooves and push back onto the bottom of the screen.

Clean the grill seal and clip back on ensuring it has located in the plastic groove all the way along.

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No way water is coming in through there again!
 
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I Love Diesel
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2,344 Posts
I expect you will get some stick for splitting the two halves of the plastic grille, but I'm not convinced this is such a bad method. The way you've sealed the housing looks good to me.
 

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Dash cams, catch 'em out :)
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Heres the stick hahahahaha.

The method used here to get to the pollen filter is one of the main reason for getting the problem the thread is about :)
 

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Megger
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241 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Heres the stick hahahahaha.

The method used here to get to the pollen filter is one of the main reason for getting the problem the thread is about :)
Do you think the sealing strip along the window stops all from getting through? I changed my pollen filter every other year for 14 years on my last one like this and that never leaked. Must have been lucky!
 

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Dash cams, catch 'em out :)
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Heres the stick hahahahaha.
The method used here to get to the pollen filter is one of the main reason for getting the problem the thread is about :)
Do you think the sealing strip along the window stops all from getting through? I changed my pollen filter every other year for 14 years on my last one like this and that never leaked. Must have been lucky!
The windscreen strip has always sealed on mine, its just the strip with no sealer and i use a pressure washer on the area at least once a week.
The 'stick' was for only removing one side of the cowl trims instead of both as that means only one side has been cleaned/re sealed.
Maybe you have been lucky :)
Over the period you mention ive lost count of the number of people with leaks after just removing one of the trims. How was the water getting to the area you sealed with sealant around the pollen filter?
 

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I Love Diesel
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2,344 Posts
I know the Haynes manual isn't always right :) but it's interesting to note that they give two methods for accessing the pollen filter. The first is the "Ford approved" method, necessitating the removal of the windscreen wipers and taking the plastic grille off in one piece. Their alternative method is the one used in this discussion.

I changed my pollen filter recently using the approved method. The biggest PITA with this is removing the wipers if they haven't been removed before (or for a long time). I had to resort to using a ball joint splitter in the end as it's all I had to hand, but the tightening bolt was very close to the windscreen and I could easily have cracked it. There is no way on this earth they would have come off by pulling/wiggling by hand.

As I said in another post about this, you have to ask yourself why the plastic grille is in two pieces if you aren't supposed to split it. It's not like it's that long and couldn't be made in one piece. Also, I doubt many garages would do this job the approved way, and most people would be none the wiser.
 

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Dash cams, catch 'em out :)
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I know the Haynes manual isn't always right :) but it's interesting to note that they give two methods for accessing the pollen filter. The first is the "Ford approved" method, necessitating the removal of the windscreen wipers and taking the plastic grille off in one piece. Their alternative method is the one used in this discussion.

I changed my pollen filter recently using the approved method. The biggest PITA with this is removing the wipers if they haven't been removed before (or for a long time). I had to resort to using a ball joint splitter in the end as it's all I had to hand, but the tightening bolt was very close to the windscreen and I could easily have cracked it. There is no way on this earth they would have come off by pulling/wiggling by hand.

As I said in another post about this, you have to ask yourself why the plastic grille is in two pieces if you aren't supposed to split it. It's not like it's that long and couldn't be made in one piece. Also, I doubt many garages would do this job the approved way, and most people would be none the wiser.
As far as I'm aware the approved Ford method never mentions removing both scuttle trims at once, but just says to remove them both. This allows the full length of the trims, screen trim and screen to be cleaned.
You are correct that removing the wipers can be a pain, but shouldnt be an issue if they had been removed each time the pollen filter was changed. None of the parts involved need any silicone or sealer to make the area fully waterproof (even to a direct jet from a pressure washer), and if sealer is used it can cause trouble later on as the screen strip needs to be able to move as the car/trim flexes.

Either way, I only mentioned 'stick' as you brought it up :)
 

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Megger
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241 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Heres the stick hahahahaha.
The method used here to get to the pollen filter is one of the main reason for getting the problem the thread is about :)
Do you think the sealing strip along the window stops all from getting through? I changed my pollen filter every other year for 14 years on my last one like this and that never leaked. Must have been lucky!
The windscreen strip has always sealed on mine, its just the strip with no sealer and i use a pressure washer on the area at least once a week.
The 'stick' was for only removing one side of the cowl trims instead of both as that means only one side has been cleaned/re sealed.
Maybe you have been lucky :)
Over the period you mention ive lost count of the number of people with leaks after just removing one of the trims. How was the water getting to the area you sealed with sealant around the pollen filter?
The water was building up from the "birds nest" at the end of the gully allowing the level to get above the bottom of the filter opening.
 

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Dash cams, catch 'em out :)
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13,191 Posts
I love ornithology as much as the next man, but having a birds nest in the car is just going to far ;)
 

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Mk3 4 LYFE
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379 Posts
Be warned, those sealing strips are like unicorn dung. I spent quite a while at the ford dealer looking on ecat for one since it was no longer holding properly. They don't appear to have an entry. The guy on the counter ordered in some scuttle panels in the hope that it came with them, but it doesn't.

I then went to the scrappy and got another scuttle panel and two sealing strips. Still leaked. Eventually I gave up and just used the best ones I had and siliconed over the top of the scuttle panel. It's been at least 6 months since then and it is still holding just fine.

I thought it was a really bad scuttle design, that was until I bought my van, which has a metal scuttle, welded into place, so when it rusts you have to have about £400 of body work and painting to be done! It's just as well I know a welder, and have been able to reduce the leak heavily with the same strategy I used on the Mondeo.
 

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Dash cams, catch 'em out :)
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13,191 Posts
Communist,
Those strips are a bit of an ommision on the catalogue, and an annoying one. Maybe a windscreen replacement company would stock them.
Failing that maybe someone here could look at one in a scrappy for a part number for future use.
 

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Megger
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241 Posts
Well the water is back over the last few years!

Started pulling the carpet and underlay back and the water is sitting in the floor channels half an inch deep.

I can see the run of water coming down the inner skin forward of the passenger door, so I know it's not running down the door skin.

Underneath the fan air intake is bone dry so this isn't getting through the pollen filter opening through the bulkhead.

Could this be the windscreen seal in the corner?

The car is solid and no rot anywhere on the bodywork. Suppose I will need to remove all the flooring/bulkhead covering material to see from the inside where it is getting in.

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Mk3 4 LYFE
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379 Posts
I think I've heard of that seam leaking for somene else. Maybe one of those cheap USB bore cameras may help check it out if you have one handy since trying to see behind the fan housing and stuff can be a bit of a pain.

I can see why you're suspicious about the windscreen. I'm no expert on them but I don't think it look like that. Maybe a replacement where they used too much adhesive, but I don't recall seeing an original one like that.

If after checking through the other possibilities you think it's the screen, read your insurance agreement and if they're unlikely to come out for a leaky screen, a centrepunch should take care of that :whistling:. Means new heating elements too if yours are bad.
 

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Clever Clauggs
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4,453 Posts
My 2002 original windscreen looks same, i silicone sealed it twice but its not

that which leaked.sealed every thing twice and still leaked,after smearing the

body panel and joints with silicone in area above glovebox/wheel arch its been

dry for 18 months now.
 

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Megger
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241 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·

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Megger
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241 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Just had the endoscope up towards the top of the arch from under the dash, behind the glovebox/fuse board.

Can see where the water is getting in!

The end of the mastic from the foam join.

Looks like it's coming in along the foam strip but more at the end where the mastic stops as you can see the dirt/foam bits that have washed down over the cream mastic!

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Clever Clauggs
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You have confirmed what i could hardly see that there is a sponge/foam and joint

that is where leak is from.

I covered the area with two layers of silicone as can only do it by touch /feel.

Just checked passenger footwell after storm Christoph and still dry :driving:
 
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