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Megger
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2,461 Posts
For whatever reason, although I regularly clean the interior, I have never used any vinyl restorer. But a neighbour, clearing out their garage gave me an used bottle.

Somewhat hesitantly, gave a squirt to a scuffed patch on the door, where one usually managed to kick the plastic, getting out.

Bl**dy hell! Amazing! Totally blown away with the result. Clean, shiny, black; the last time it looked like this was when it left the showroom. Next job (after replacing the damaged door) will be to use the restorer on all the interior vinyl. She will look like new.
 

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Megger
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2,461 Posts
Thanks for that; I did wonder about it. Now, half the dash is slightly 'glossy' which does not worry me because it looks so much deeper and clean.

May be I will go buy a matt one.

As it happens, the lady who gave me the container, is getting rid of her 2006 VW Polo with a massive 6k on the clock. She gave me the VW Care Pack, never used, with all the AutoGlynn shampoo, polishes, waxes and resin hard coat finish intact.
 

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Megger
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2,461 Posts
She didn't give me the car, just the VW Care Pack, complete in its zippered case.
 

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Megger
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2,461 Posts
Don't intend to question your knowledge, but is it the bearing? After driving a short distance, is the brake disk hot to touch?

Does the car drift forward on a slight incline and the h/b off?

I have never had a bearing issue, but frequently do have the h/b jamming on and the disk become bloody hot!
 

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Megger
Joined
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2,461 Posts
Save myself around £80 today by changing my wiper blades with a pair of those Aero ones.

Why £80 you may well ask? The last time I changed the blades, I did not put a thick towel on the windscreen. The arm, with no blade attached, sprung from my hand and put a lovely crack the height of the windscreen! It was replaced but of course, there is the excess. Ouchhh!

Almost as expensive a getting Ford to do the job. One time they quoted me £35 to adjust the washer nozzles!
 

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Megger
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2,461 Posts
"The problem with being tired but wanting to do something is that I tend to 'find' myself little jobs or just make little things to amuse myself"

Oh yes; stuff expends in importance in proportion to the time available to do it.
 

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Megger
Joined
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2,461 Posts
This is the joy of cars; refurbishing bits and pieces just in case they can be used in the future. In all likelihood, they will stay in the box until you get rid of the car.

Following my door 'fender-bender' I have replaced one door and have the front still to replace. But I removed all the internal bits, cleaned them and now have them sitting on the bench, just in case (of what, I don't know?) The door skins will go to the local scrap yard, but the mechanicals, have yet to decide.

Last time I visited a breakers for a rear brake caliper pent bolt, it was easier to remove the entire caliper, so I now have both left and right, slightly cleaned and with new rubbers fitted, again, just in case!
 

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Megger
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2,461 Posts
Jeepers! Better than new! When completed, do no take it out on the road in case it gets dirty.
 

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Megger
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2,461 Posts
I did see a few small bits of rust on the brake pipes above the rear subframe.

Is it acceptable to sand them, then rust coat and paint them?
My guess would be not advisable; but what do I know?

With the s/f out, access to the tank will be a piece of cake.

How do you propose to get the s/f lined up again when reinstalling? Or will you just fit it as best as you can and then go for a four wheel align?

Last time I took mine, they told me the Mk3 did not have rear adjustment. All lies, as I have found out and your photo shows. However, when I started a thread about the adjustment nut and may be replacing the link arms, (probably not possible to remove the blots with the s/f in place?) I then tried the good old fashioned string method to check the rear alignment.

Found it was out by quite a bit, so adjusted it myself. The result is that the rear tires that where noted in the MOT as uneven wear, now have somewhat even wear.
 

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Megger
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2,461 Posts
"I'm thinking about replacing the front set of arms as they can't be renewed later without dropping the sub-frame"

That is pretty much what I can see so replacing is eminently sensible. From my investigations, with the s/f in place, the front bolt would have to be cut. However, I cannot see any reason why a replacement could not be installed the other way round, so that is it accessible and removable.
 

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Megger
Joined
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2,461 Posts
Moving totally off topic here, we use white vinegar for domestic cleaning of many things; windows, stainless steel kitchen to, etc.

I buy it form a Korean supermarket that supplies the Korean / Chinese take-away trade; five litres for around £2.50.

May be not strong enought for rust removal but damned good value.
 

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Megger
Joined
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2,461 Posts
Oh well, Rex, seeing that our mod isn't around, I must tell you that our local chippy used to sell very cheaply, big bottles of something mysteriously called 'non-brewed condiment' So in my innocent ignorance (it WAS years ago...) I bought several bottles of it thinking it was some kind of pop. Of course, it wasn't, but a chemical version of vinegar that was identical in every way except because it WASN'T, they weren't allowed to call it vinegar. Can't help wondering if your white 'cheap as chips' vinegar isn't the same stuff.
But who cares hey, it's just a lazy Sunday afternoon anyway :)
Well, it looks white vinegar; it smell like vinegar so I guess it must be vinegar.
 

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Megger
Joined
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2,461 Posts
Agreed; an excellent guide. However, there is a BUT!!!!

Mondyman does not handle refurbing the handbreak adjustment components. Seems he sprayed with the lever in place. The Bigg Red kit does come with both an 'O' ring for the shaft seal and the external weather seal.

I hae only replaced the seals on one of mine, as it proved to be impossilbe to undo the small torx screw holding the lever in place. I do have a plan, but it will probably involve trashing the torx completely, even if I can release it. So before attempting, I want to find out the thread size and procure the appropiate bolt. A bolt will be easier to undo in the future.

There is also an issue with the pent-headed bolt, that holds the h-b adjustment mechanisum in place. Again, only a problem because it is pent headed, rather than hex. That was so well rusted in place that I managed to twist the head off! Had to buy an extractor set but have not used it yet. As for trying to buy a pent bolt, forget it. I do have a pair of calipers / carrier from the local scrapy and will use one of my 'spare' pent bolts when I get around to doing the job.
 

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Megger
Joined
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2,461 Posts
Ahh yes. Those essential tools they don't sell on eBay or Halfords; plastic pots to support something. Very useful whne lowering the exhaust.
 

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Megger
Joined
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2,461 Posts
Ended up with a torn dust boot so have had to order another new caliper set from Bigg Red.

Was also going to rebuild the master cylinder in case its that that's causing air in the circuit but am losing confidence in my ability now. Does anyone know if I've got to bleed the ABS afterwards?
Torn dust boot. I managed to insert an electrical screwdriver that I was using to 'pop' the ring back, right through the dust boot. Very easy to do. As for bending the spring steel ring, been there, done that!

When I have had my calipers off to refurb, I have not bled the ABS but I always clamp the flexi hose so as not to loose the fluid.
 

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Megger
Joined
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2,461 Posts
Wood? Is that going to be strong enough when the sub-frame is trying to twist around?

Presumably, the M8 is screwed into the wood?
 

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Megger
Joined
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2,461 Posts
Need to get air-con gassed

not wprked for 14yrs.
Good luck with that. Took mine of Kwik Fit a couple of year ago for a regas after a number of years of seemingly not working. Told it would not hold the pressure.

Bought a UV touch to find the problem and X years later, still looking! Can only think the issue is where the flow / return pipes go into the compressor and or the 'O' rings there, but it seems to be impossible to gt the tourch into a position where I can illuminate the joint and more importantly, see it.
 

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Megger
Joined
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2,461 Posts
This getting old business really sucks! Physically, I am sort of OK, but the prostrate issue is rearing its head!

Ranykar, just out of interest, how large is you tank if you can get most of a sub-frame into it? How large is yo work space if you have room for a car and a large tank?

A neighbour recently sold to a young couple who are doing a major renovation. The garage was not wdie enough to get a modern car in, but it did have a pit; now it has been filled in. How I wish I had a pit!
 
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