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Resident Wrestling Legend
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Stupid they put rusty springs as an advisory, its cosmetic only.

The springs I have seen break often still have the black coating intact, so its not a sign the
springs are weak and about to fail.
i'm just going to give them a quick wipe down with a pad before the next one
or i might have refreshed the entire rear end by then, after all, i've got 3 of the things :ROFLMAO:
 

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Dash cams, catch 'em out :)
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13,163 Posts
Just checked out crack ends on the splash shield I acquired the other day.
Quite a few cracks!
3 coming out of the slot where a chunk is missing and another long one.
Will stop drill and glue on a doubler made from the old useless splash shield came off my car.
I didn’t have any luck when I tried a couple of kinds of plastic welding on the undertrays. The arch liners were easy, but the under trays appear to be a different plastic.

What methods you use might depend on how ‘factory fresh’ you want the undertray to look.
For damage around fixing holes I have used the superglue and baking powder method as that gave a good finish and bridged gaps well.

Not all of the undertray is in contact with the car on the top edge, so roughing up the surface and putting a layer of fibreglass would work in those areas.

There are dedicated metal clips that can be melted into the plastic, or normal staples can be heated and inserted, but this isn’t the ideal plastic from the times I tried it.
 
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Hiding under a Rock
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709 Posts
Not too bothered with "factory fresh" finish, as long as it does the job.
I'm going to use flexible epoxy 3M 2216 to bond a doubler over the damaged slot, it's flexible enough not to crack at hard point.
I think I'll try RTV and 600mph tape on the long crack, both sides, as I don't have a spare piece to glue over and a fastener doesn't go over it, so it should be ok (hopefully)
 

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Hiding under a Rock
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After stop drilling the crack ends, tried to deburr the fuzz you get around the hole circumference when drilling holes in a plastic - it didn't quite work out.
So I gave a quick flame to the fuzz with butane torch, which worked well - so much so I went over the length of crack, which smoothed and opened up the width of crack. There I had a choice of filling the gap with epoxy or "plastic welding" which Ray mentioned.
I just cut the spare shield into a few slivers, then blew torch at the crack and the sliver and tried to fill the crack.
It seemed to have worked ok, seems fairly pliable - but pretty ugly. Ray'd best not to look at the photos when I upload them...:p
I thought it would be thermosetting plastic, not thermoplastic but I'll take the win.
 

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Super Moderator
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30,019 Posts
Some good UV curing resins available now. I have a resin 3D printer and the stuff is really useful for
various other jobs. Put some resin in a syringe and you can put a small blob onto an area and then
a few seconds with a UV torch cures it.

Good stuff, not cheap at £40 or so for a litre but you can get different grades. The one i like lot is ABS like
some flex to it but mostly rigid when cured.
 

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Dash cams, catch 'em out :)
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13,163 Posts
After stop drilling the crack ends, tried to deburr the fuzz you get around the hole circumference when drilling holes in a plastic - it didn't quite work out.
So I gave a quick flame to the fuzz with butane torch, which worked well - so much so I went over the length of crack, which smoothed and opened up the width of crack. There I had a choice of filling the gap with epoxy or "plastic welding" which Ray mentioned.
I just cut the spare shield into a few slivers, then blew torch at the crack and the sliver and tried to fill the crack.
It seemed to have worked ok, seems fairly pliable - but pretty ugly. Ray'd best not to look at the photos when I upload them...:p
I thought it would be thermosetting plastic, not thermoplastic but I'll take the win.
Glad to hear the plastic welding worked :)
I didn’t get much luck with the undertray, so it’s good to hear someone else has.
 
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Megger
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My MOT last week had the same advisory, OSR and NSR springs have rust. May be the same guy?

Last year, only one had a rust advisory. I cleaned it, applied Kurust and painted with Hammerite black but it was spotted again this year.
 

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Got a code read of dash p244c-00 tried motorway run, changed rear pads on my newly swapped Mondeo tdci 156k miles for my pile of crap BMW + cash at least all the Beamer did was leak oil and lots of it!! Gonna attemp to diagnose with mash hammer!!
 

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Hiding under a Rock
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709 Posts
I've been wanting to pick up straight steel wheels (most likely to be from spare wheel well) but boneyard people are quite clever (or considerate) enough to open up the bootlid before disconnecting the battery.
What would be the best way to open up - a big crow bar? go from inside? (hatch & estate)
 

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Hiding under a Rock
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went a little overboard with the torch and blew a couple of holes on the splash shield and worse it's slightly warped now.
just managed to fit it and didn't hear any crack when i had to persuade the warped section to flatten to get the fasteners on.
i'll go for a drive tomorrow, take it off and have a closer look (will be flushing radiator so it's gotta come off anyway)
 

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Dash codes can be misleading. Seen codes where there were non in the ECU and the car was running perfectly.

The dash can only show a small handful of codes anyway. Better off with a £20 scanner that uses the Forscan software.
 

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Hiding under a Rock
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done the cooling system flush and took off water outlet housing off the head to replace with my modified one (which has two additional temperature sensors, one for gauge and the other for fan override).
geez, the three steel hose tails literally crumbled as I removed the hoses. The hose tail integral to the housing (goes to the top rad tank) has a lot of "growth" of some sort. must be the corrosion.
worst of all, the small hose tail going to the expansion tank was completely blocked with broken/rusted hose tail debris.
 

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Hiding under a Rock
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small hose tail crumbled & blocked
bigger one rusted away, left debris inside the heater hose

The upper radiator hose doesn't look too bad and it came off hose tails really easy, so I'm guessing it was replaced at some stage in the past.
The second hand replacement housing was off later face lift model and it was far better condition.
I wonder how much a new one would cost.
 

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Resident Wrestling Legend
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lack of the correct corrosion inhibitor in the antifreeze is the reason for that
bet you are glad you caught it when you did
 

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Hiding under a Rock
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lack of the correct corrosion inhibitor in the antifreeze is the reason for that
bet you are glad you caught it when you did
I checked the hose from the top of the expansion tank to the blocked hose tail. Guess what, it was blocked solid too. Lucky I managed to catch that as well.
I suppose there is not so much of a consequence though because there is a sort of redundant circuit (small hose from the top radiator tank to the second hose tail on the expansion tank)...

New one on:

I gave it some squirts of degreaser for the photo ops. Still dirty though...
 
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Hiding under a Rock
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709 Posts
How are your splash shields attached to your cars?
Mine doesn't quite look like this here (from catcar)

There are 5 square holes for Item 14 on the cross member - it's a red plastic clip thing. BUT! There are only 3 holes on the aft edge of the shield (one at each end and third in the middle). The shield has a large semi-circular cut out around the other two, you can't screw it down.
Items 4, 12 & 13 seem to be shown incorrectly too. They are all upside down for a starter.
Where items 4 (which looks like a plastic screw and an explanding plastic sleeve), there are metal screws and metal nut plates (looks like Items 13) (which is clipped on the bumper)
Items 12, are Torx 30 screws, going on to the red plastic clip (Item 14)
Items 13 - I don't know where this came from.
 
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