[ul9601]

replaced the expansion tank that seemed to have developed split seam. haynes helpfully suggested the coolant be siphoned out first. no chance with baffles everywhere inside. thanks, haynes.

 

[Communist]

Been well over a year since ive had to do that, not sure why its behaved for so long, ive had to do it every 6-12 months till the last time i did it.

I fill a syringe with engine oil, heat the caliper with a blow torch and inject oil into the mech while working it back and forth with a spanner on the arm and keep doing that till it snaps back rather than creeps back to to the released position.

My old man had a Mk3 years ago and replaced the calipers twice, he was gutted when i got one and saw how i and others 'fixed' the issue for free lol.

I've never once had an issue with the handbrake. Not come across it personally on other people's ones either, and I know a few.

Might be because the later ones are less prone to it, or that because I use it a lot while driving and that keeps it from seizing up.

Car has sat since early January now, so who knows if it's still ok but it was when I took the brake off and rocked it back and forth last week. I'll be needing it next weekend so it'd better be good.

 

[mondy zetecs]

Checked passenger footwell after yesterdays heavy rain,no surprise the cloths under the carpet are wet enough to ring out a little but not pooling , hanging cloths out in sunshine,have to re-silicon or get a garage.

 

[ul9601]

i ve cut the carpet and insulation out on the driver's side after trying all sorts to fix it and now i have metal floor (and rubber mat over) its definitely better but still leaks after a downpour. one of these days i ll pull the dash and everything out and figure it out...

 

[Steve_v6]

i ve cut the carpet and insulation out on the driver's side after trying all sorts to fix it and now i have metal floor (and rubber mat over) its definitely better but still leaks after a downpour. one of these days i ll pull the dash and everything out and figure it out...

My Boot leaks in heavy rain, i have a towel along the opening near the catch but when i forget to deal with it my spare wheel well fills with water

Not sure if its coming from the boot seal or a tail light, i have a ford plastic liner in my boot and the water misses that which is good as it means my sub boxes stay dry, water and MDF dont play nice!

 

[ul9601]

speaking of sub, after much procrastination (must have been like 6 months), finally finished the sub. now hook up the amp and tune it - it's some digital stuff, not like the cheap stuff i'm used to with a couple of knobs, so no idea where to begin and the manual is pretty vague to. i think it's alpine mrd-m500.
anyway here is a pic of the sub with over the top grille.

 

[Steve_v6]

speaking of sub, after much procrastination (must have been like 6 months), finally finished the sub. now hook up the amp and tune it - it's some digital stuff, not like the cheap stuff i'm used to with a couple of knobs, so no idea where to begin and the manual is pretty vague to. i think it's alpine mrd-m500.
anyway here is a pic of the sub with over the top grille.

Class D are great for driving subs, they are vastly more efficient than class A/B were talking 75-90% vs 40-65% meaning considerably less current draw for a given output power.

Class D is not as good for Mids and Highs as they dont sound as good for those ranges but i run class D on everything as i am already maxed out on what my car can handle and kill alternators as it is lol.

If you only ever ran class D you would not necessarily pick up on it but when i went from A/B to D on my components it was obvious and sounds harsher but there is no perceivable difference when driving subs with class D

Looked up your amp, 250w RMS @ 4ohms and 500w RMS @ 2ohms, no mention if its 1ohm stable.

im assuming your sub is a 4ohm single voice coil and will be getting 250? wonder how long it will be before you add a second sub to get that 500w lol.

My mono amps are 500 rms @ 4ohms, 800 rms @ 2ohms and 1200 rms @ 1ohm, i run two @ 2ohms which is 400w rms more than running one @ 1ohm and they spend most of their time cranked right up, my four 12's have my car well known in my town ha ha

 

[ul9601]

Class D are great for driving subs, they are vastly more efficient than class A/B were talking 75-90% vs 40-65% meaning considerably less current draw for a given output power.

Class D is not as good for Mids and Highs as they dont sound as good for those ranges but i run class D on everything as i am already maxed out on what my car can handle and kill alternators as it is lol.

If you only ever ran class D you would not necessarily pick up on it but when i went from A/B to D on my components it was obvious and sounds harsher but there is no perceivable difference when driving subs with class D

Looked up your amp, 250w RMS @ 4ohms and 500w RMS @ 2ohms, no mention if its 1ohm stable.

im assuming your sub is a 4ohm single voice coil and will be getting 250? wonder how long it will be before you add a second sub to get that 500w lol.

My mono amps are 500 rms @ 4ohms, 800 rms @ 2ohms and 1200 rms @ 1ohm, i run two @ 2ohms which is 400w rms more than running one @ 1ohm and they spend most of their time cranked right up, my four 12's have my car well known in my town ha ha

the sub is rockford 2ohm SVC RMS 250W 12".
i ll need to wire up and more importantly tune the amp and the sub without much procrastination first before any more subs. lol
will get spare 6x9 coaxial in the rear doors if there is space. i read your post there s more space in the rear doors.

 

[Steve_v6]

the sub is rockford 2ohm SVC RMS 250W 12".
i ll need to wire up and more importantly tune the amp and the sub without much procrastination first before any more subs. lol
will get spare 6x9 coaxial in the rear doors if there is space. i read your post there s more space in the rear doors.

What cable do you have, you can probably just about get away with 8 gauge but i dont recommend it as you could be pulling 65A+ with that amp, i would go with 4 gauge but you dont need to go heavier than that but if you do plan on future upgrades then going bigger might make sense but be warned, running 0 gauge through the car is a challenge!

With that sub you are going to present a 2ohm load to the amp which will make it output 500w rms but the sub is rated 250w rms, be careful!!

I run 400w rms though each of my 4 subs but two are rated 400w rms and two are for 500w rms, ive let the magic smoke out of many subs from over driving them in the past!

Your box looks like a sealed one? That gets the thumbs up from me, i am very much in the sealed camp and wont run anything else cos i like tight punchy and accurate bass, hate the vague washed out bass ported gives!

Never owned a rockford sub but i ran a punch amp for many years till it blew a channel, i still have it and its stripped down, i really need to get on and replace the blown components as its a vintage 'cheater' era amp and they fetch good money now!

 

[ul9601]

the amp has 60A fuse so 8 gauge wire i have from previous el cheapo xplod xm444 setup (or was it a punch, i forget.) should be ok. i dont think i ll crank up the amp too much but we'll see.
i'll create a new post or PM you when i'm ready to set up the amp etc.
the worst thing with the amp (or i should say the amp manual) is that it has a whole lot of parameters to set up but the manual only gives one example for each and how changing parameter affects what etc. will need some research.

 

[Steve_v6]

the amp has 60A fuse so 8 gauge wire i have from previous el cheapo xplod xm444 setup (or was it a punch, i forget.) should be ok. i dont think i ll crank up the amp too much but we'll see.
i'll create a new post or PM you when i'm ready to set up the amp etc.
the worst thing with the amp (or i should say the amp manual) is that it has a whole lot of parameters to set up but the manual only gives one example for each and how changing parameter affects what etc. will need some research.

60A is the very top end of what 8 gauge can handle which is why i said just about get away with it but it 'shouldn't' hold your amp back or become a strip heater for your car as long as you only run that one amp on it