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What did you do with your Mondeo today

183K views 4K replies 105 participants last post by  Steve_v6 
#1 ·
I gave mine a bit of a work out

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#1,404 ·
Holy schmolly! You have obviously decided the Mk3 will become a classic and you are going to get it into concourse condition.

I must admit that when I see an Mk3 driving past, I do have a quick look. I think it is timeless design and 18 years down the line, still does not look an old car. I have been lazy in replacing my front door; still have the slightly damaged one from the fender bender 8 months ago. But I do have two replacements in the garage, all cleaned and ready to go, just can't get my mojo (that's not BoJo) into gear.
 
#1,405 ·
Rex
Getting it properly concourse would involve a whole lot more work and more money.

As a quick example I'm painting part of the underside at the moment.
The car is panther black, and it seems many people just spray the body colour under the car, but that's not how they were when new.
Mine is panther black, with some areas lacquered and some not, there are satin black parts either painted or powder coated, areas left in a satin Ford polar grey and the rough sandy colour protected areas.

I will do a mix of panther and satin black spray, will do the grey parts in polar grey but will also spray the rough areas black if they don't clean up well.
I'll make it look nice but won't go overboard.
The fixings, nuts and bolts would be a nightmare too.
When new they were a mix of satin black, natural, dull galvanised and bright yellow passivated.
The yellow passivated parts are now in bright or dull zinc if recently made, so some parts can't be bought in the original colour unless they are NOS parts.
 
#1,406 ·
I've been under the car today........surely a sign of lack of sanity :)

I wanted to have a look at something, but ended up jacking the car up more than it was left at to work on the arches.
I then removed the middle exhaust section, two bits of heatshield including the fuel tank heatshield and one of the fuel tank straps.

Looking at brand new fuel tank straps they are finished in bright yellow/gold passivate. This led me to need to have a long think about what colour to do the straps once refurbed as spray can't replicate yellow passivate.

But once the strap was removed it was satin black in areas that hadn't been exposed to water or corrosion etc.
That was a surprise.

Strap showing satin black in an 'as new' area.
Wood Tool Bumper Gas Hand tool


Overall the straps are in pretty good condition.
Wood Automotive tire Bumper Motor vehicle Bottle
 

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#1,407 ·
"I wanted to have a look at something" Been scouring my Haynes book and I cannot find any reference to 'something.' Whic part of the car is that?

When I had to drop the tank due to the HP pump depositing swarf throughout the fuel system, I did not remove the straps, as if memory serves me correctly, it is not possilbe without dropping the sub-frame.

But when I replaced the tank and re-attached the straps., I sandwiched a couple of high strength neodymium magnets between the strap and tank, just in case there was any metal swilling around in the tank. Hopefully, they will get caught by the magnets. Also dropped a one into the tank; belt and braces!
 
#1,408 ·
... well, yesterday anyway (too damn hot today.. as was yesterday really) in prep for changing rad+AC condenser I jacked up front, removed wheels and arch liners. Then proceeded to undo in turn and copper grease the front bumper retaining bolts, the ones on each side nearest the arch being quite corroded and needing extra attention. Had to also drill out a rusted screw securing front under protection panel in order to remove. Then put all back together again. Sounds simple doesn't it, would have taken anyone else 2-3hrs?...took me 12hrs on and off. Think it's me age.... ????
 
#1,409 ·
... well, yesterday anyway (too damn hot today.. as was yesterday really) in prep for changing rad+AC condenser I jacked up front, removed wheels and arch liners. Then proceeded to undo in turn and copper grease the front bumper retaining bolts, the ones on each side nearest the arch being quite corroded and needing extra attention. Had to also drill out a rusted screw securing front under protection panel in order to remove. Then put all back together again. Sounds simple doesn't it, would have taken anyone else 2-3hrs?...took me 12hrs on and off. Think it's me age....
At least you got it done i give up after 3hrs nowadays.
 
#1,410 ·
"I wanted to have a look at something" Been scouring my Haynes book and I cannot find any reference to 'something.' Whic part of the car is that?

When I had to drop the tank due to the HP pump depositing swarf throughout the fuel system, I did not remove the straps, as if memory serves me correctly, it is not possilbe without dropping the sub-frame.

But when I replaced the tank and re-attached the straps., I sandwiched a couple of high strength neodymium magnets between the strap and tank, just in case there was any metal swilling around in the tank. Hopefully, they will get caught by the magnets. Also dropped a one into the tank; belt and braces!
That's the trouble with the Haynes manual, it's just not precise enough. ;)
A visit to catcar/Ecat showed 'something' to be clip F6843385 :)

Those are the circular fasteners that secure the fuel tank heatshield.
 
#1,411 ·
#1,412 ·
Ford oil and filter change today

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#1,413 ·
Still has dated sticker on pas pipe 29.05.01 20190720_165143_zpsp0toipku.jpg
I've just noticed you painted your engine mount black.
So, black mount on a silver car.
I did mine silver, so silver mount on a black car :)
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Yes goodd com
Not wearing the St black coolant tank cover ?
Yes, but not in that pic as a I needed a clear pic of the mount.

With the cover on the mount doesn't really show.

Motor vehicle Hood Vehicle Grille Automotive design
 

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#1,414 ·
Made some more progress with the heat shields today.
I hammered some spare heat shield flat, then cut it into various shapes to patch the holes in the existing heat shields.
The pic below makes the colour difference worse than it actually is, but it was interesting to note that even scrubbing the material with a wire brush while submerged in white vinegar didn't get the aluminium as bright as using a soft toothbrush and specialist deoxidiser.
I've got some more deoxidiser on order so later patches will match better.

Anyway, back to patches, I fitted the rear heatshields and used bits of sticky paper to mark where the holes need to go.
Then transferred that mark to the opposite side and used it to drill holes in the patches. I gave the arches a couple of coats of high temp clear lacquer then glued them to the heat shield with Araldite metal epoxy. That is water resistant and has a temp rating of 100 degrees C so should be ok.

I rushed the first set of patches a bit and the lacquer wasn't fully hard. From now on I'll make sure the lacquer is rock hard, then I can use large washers to press the entire patch up against the shield so it's a tight fit :)

Paper marking where the holes need to be.
Azure Dress shirt Textile Sleeve Grey


Marks transferred to opposite side.

Hood Grille Sleeve Grey Automotive exterior
 

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#1,415 · (Edited by Moderator)
Finished shield.
I don't think this pic shows how close the finishes actually are, but either way the patches that are shaped to fill an entire recess look nicer than the circular patches.

Wood Mesh Material property Flooring Rectangle

The dot pattern is different on each side of the material. Making sure he patch is the right way up and that the dots are in line with the surrounding dots also helps the patches blend in.

The flattened patches are around 0.4mm thick. I'll add 0.9mm thick aluminium on the top side of the shields to make them stronger and to increase their lifespan.
 

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#1,420 · (Edited by Moderator)
Attempting to sort rusty hatch frame top but starts raining.Should have masked with thin cardboard
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Yes, been there done that!

I had a bit of rust appearing in that gap, but on the roof section. After many tries at fixing it, I finally bit the bullet and removed the hatch.

That of course, allowed me to clean the hatch seam which is virtually unreachable when fitted, and clean, prepare, spray and give a coule of top coats to everything. Did not go OTT with polishing to get a full 'as new' shine' but certainly did prevent the corrosion spreading.

Not too difficult to remove / replace but is a three man job. Two to support and lift / lower, one in the boot to guide it into place without scratching anything. The most time consuming part was gently nudging it left / right / front / back so that it closed easily again.

My only comment on your photo, like you, I used low tack masking tape to hold the newspaper in position, but when I removed it, some clearcoat came along for the ride. It is a b***h trying to get that area looking like it was!
 
#1,421 · (Edited by Moderator)
Attempting to sort rusty hatch frame top but starts raining.Should have masked with thin cardboard
728925cd4f179eea7103de27c3e4ef01.jpg

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Yes, been there done that!

I had a bit of rust appearing in that gap, but on the roof section. After many tries at fixing it, I finally bit the bullet and removed the hatch.

That of course, allowed me to clean the hatch seam which is virtually unreachable when fitted, and clean, prepare, spray and give a coule of top coats to everything. Did not go OTT with polishing to get a full 'as new' shine' but certainly did prevent the corrosion spreading.

Not too difficult to remove / replace but is a three man job. Two to support and lift / lower, one in the boot to guide it into place without scratching anything. The most time consuming part was gently nudging it left / right / front / back so that it closed easily again.

My only comment on your photo, like you, I used low tack masking tape to hold the newspaper in position, but when I removed it, some clearcoat came along for the ride. It is a b***h trying to get that area looking like it was!
If you look at the tape and newspaper on the hatch the tape is at the top, with the paper lower down.
What some people do to make a neater and easier to clean up finish would be to put that tape on the hatch 1cm lower down, with the paper trapped under the side nearest the roof, they then fold the paper OVER the tape and back down towards the bottom of the hatch.
This tends to stop a 'thick edge' of sprayed paint or lacquer, and makes blending the new and old paint easier.

I was only using that pic as an example of what is done, nor suggesting lacquering the glass :)
 
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#1,422 · (Edited by Moderator)
All suggestions welcome,not spray painted for 35yrs though enjoyed floating or dusting

the paint on again only part i like.

I've lost the perfectionist touch it just looks better than rusty brown.

Had a electric spray gun but lend it out don't see it again

Still got a tin of clear lacquer from them days,brushed it on bottom of

doors where no-one can see.
 
#1,425 ·
Now to let it dry 24hrs before lacquer
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In my previous life, I did quite a lot of spraying of any numbero of very tricky items. Still have my spray guns butno compressor soem use rattle cans now.

The rusty area on my car was the vertical section at the end of the roof line, where the water drains, as shown in this photo. Difficult to get fingers in there to clean and prepare; almost impossilbe to get the rattle can at an angle to actually get any spray iin there. Plus, access to the centre section is almost impossible, having to lean over the car.

It was due to the lack of access that I took the hatch off. Could do everything while kneeling in the boot. Easy peasy!
 
#1,426 ·
I spent what seemed like forever cleaning a large heatshield today.

I also spent ages looking for the correct nuts for one of the exhaust brackets.

If anyone can use their google skills to find some of these nuts that would be brilliant, I'm having no luck finding any cheap and with cheap postage.

The nuts are M8 x 1.25 nuts with a nyloc and a 22mm OD free spinning washer.
I have no idea what the finis is as Catcar/Ecat thinks the bracket holds itself on by magic and doesn't show any nuts.
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