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MEG Captain
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I got mine 7 months ago and one has just blown!! :BEEP: Surely they should last longer than that?

Are the main headlights H7, just wanna check as I wanna get some on ebay tonight? Also are they all the same, will I get away with just replacing the one or do some have different shades of blue etc?

Cheers
 

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67 Posts
i would always change them together.. even if they are just the same, the older one lost some of the light power, the bulb possibly blinded a bit and so on..
 

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Had the same problem having upgraded to Xenon about 3 yrs ago.
1 dipped beam bulb went a couple of weeks ago, so I replaced both dipped bulbs.
Its not worth the hassle just changing the one, when the other is bound to fail within a short period of time.
Having to take the front off the Mondeo mk2 to change bulbs seems a trifle daft.
Main beam bulbs dont get the same usage, so I left them alone. Probably a mistake.

Best,
Bob.
 

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Megger
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82 Posts
do you just have the ballasts wired up directly to the the old dipped beam bulb connectors? this will cause premature hid capsule failure. the cars standard wiring to the headlighs has some resistance, and also a fairly poor earth, not aproblem with halogen but will cause a voltage sag when you start up the hids as they draw over 80 amps for a few milliseconds when striking the arc. if the voltage sags durng this stage the ballast quickly turns off and turns back on giving the capsules the 23kv striking voltage whilst their already warm and conducting. this causes a reddish-orange flickering which is the 23kv pulse burning the metal halide salts in the capsule, seriously reducing its life. The best way to wire an hid kit in is to run decent thickness wire directly from the battery with an inline fuse through a relay controlled by the old bulb connector to the ballast. also it is important not to switch hids on without the engine running unless its absolutely necesarry for the same reasons mentioned above, and it is good practice to wait at least 5 seconds after starting your engine to turn on the hids to allow the battery to recover from the massive drain of starting the engine and let the alternator bring the voltage up a bit, as a higher voltage to the ballast means less current draw and less likelyhood of multiple restrikes damaging the hid capsule.
would this thread not be better in lighting?
 

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Copiertech said:
do you just have the ballasts wired up directly to the the old dipped beam bulb connectors? this will cause premature hid capsule failure. the cars standard wiring to the headlighs has some resistance, and also a fairly poor earth, not aproblem with halogen but will cause a voltage sag when you start up the hids as they draw over 80 amps for a few milliseconds when striking the arc. if the voltage sags durng this stage the ballast quickly turns off and turns back on giving the capsules the 23kv striking voltage whilst their already warm and conducting. this causes a reddish-orange flickering which is the 23kv pulse burning the metal halide salts in the capsule, seriously reducing its life. The best way to wire an hid kit in is to run decent thickness wire directly from the battery with an inline fuse through a relay controlled by the old bulb connector to the ballast. also it is important not to switch hids on without the engine running unless its absolutely necesarry for the same reasons mentioned above, and it is good practice to wait at least 5 seconds after starting your engine to turn on the hids to allow the battery to recover from the massive drain of starting the engine and let the alternator bring the voltage up a bit, as a higher voltage to the ballast means less current draw and less likelyhood of multiple restrikes damaging the hid capsule.
would this thread not be better in lighting?
thats if its HID xenons rather than filiment xenons, HID xenons should last for ages!
 

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Megger
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82 Posts
they SHOULD last for ages but the far eastern HID kits are far more sensitive to poor treatment than OEM equipment. OEM ballasts dont ignite the bulb until the internal capacitors are charged enough to sustain the arc once its struck. cheap ones do not, but you can prolong the life of the kit by following the above advice.
 
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