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No, but I've used a diesel additive called Forte with very good results, however, instead of adding the bottle to a full tank, I added the contents to a nearly empty tank, added 5 litres of diesel to mix it up, then gave it a good motorway run. The improvement in performance was excellent, and the injector leak-offs were improved.
Thats what we need, Some proper tests but you would need every member on here to try it

to get some reliable data.

Sometimes just a good thrash can blow the cobwebs away.

When watching the dyno runs the first couple are usually lower, after a couple of runs the

cobwebs are gone and the ECU may have compensated. So many variables.
 
BG244 is also well regarded...
 
You can pickup second hand injectors cheap enough.

Yes leakdown test very very easy. Kits on eBay for twenty wuid

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Discussion starter · #24 ·
"Unusual glowplug" LOL
I know I know!

I meant that its not coming on unless i'm on a motorway its good as gold for weeks going about town.

I spent a week on holiday in the Yorkshire Dales and on thr 5 hour journey there it was cutting out lots, but when we were there just driving about the hills never missed a beat.
On the way home i realised that if i kept it around 70mph (using cruise control mainly) it was fine.

That is until the alternator went..... but thats a coincidence right??
 
Usually appears the fault over certain revs, more than the speed.
This problem also could be the pressure valve regulator in the pump.
Air in the leak line of injectors and injectors.
These are the most.
Also the cam sensor when theres problems to start.
My recommendation is always use the best gasoil and refill when quarter of tank to minimize the possibility of fault.
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
Thats the odd thing I can rev the balls of it no problem rev it into the red and it wont cut out. seems to be something about getting up to motorway speed quickly if you do it gently its ok

thats why I thought it was unusual....
 
If it's bothering you, then 1st thing you need to address is the (bleedin') obvious one; the mk3 is a mature product and there aren't many new faults under the sun. Usually garages will do the bare minimum when they 'service' your car, oil and filter change being the most
important, air filter being a doddle.
So before embarking on considering leak-off testing, etc, perhaps a new fuel filter is 1st, and inexpensive and fairly likely culprit. As you don't do your own servicing, is this a task you would be comfortable doing by yourself?
 
As nicam says something so cheap like the fuel filter would be worth changing and even for the most basic mechanic like me can change it. I used a syringe and filled the filter with diesel whilst it was in place, reconnected the fuel lines and it fired straight up. Held the revs about 1500rpm for about a minute and good as anything
 
My sister had 3 or 4 services on her old car and not one of them changed the fuel

filter. Still had the filter that i fitted previously.

Unless you specifically ask them to change it then most wont.
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
OK thanks
I have had a look and I reckon I could manage a fuel filter change seems pretty simple

Last major service was 16k ago anyway

Cheers guys
 
Make sure you prime the new filter from the inlet side. Dont put fuel in the outlet side

just in case debris gets in there.
 
I just buy ÂŁ2 worth of diesel in a clean can and use a syringe to fill the filter, no spilling nothing and easy peasy to do. Once filter is full, reattach lines and start the car
 
Nope just fill it from any inlet you wish it makes no difference
 
Pipe from the tank = the inlet, pipe to the pump = the outlet.

Small pipe is the leak back return. ignore that.
 
Don't fill it thro' the centre pipe, that's the output, put the diesel in thro' the side pipe that is the same diameter as the middle pipe. When you remove the old filter, it'll be full of diesel, so invert it into a suitable clean container and drain it. ( I use an old large mug)then you can fill the new filter using that, with a syringe.
Unclipping the pipes from the filter might need a bit of explaining. I'll try. The pipes are black, but the retaining clips are white, you have to squeeze the 2 protruding lugs then push the clip away from the pipe...it's sort of U shaped with the lugs being the horizontal bars on top of the U. A pic is worth a 1,000 words, so if you can't work it out I'll see if there's a pic somewhere to clarify it.
 
That's how i do it, except I don't use a syringe, just pour it in the filter all over my hands all over the floor everywhere lol

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I'm paying close attention to this as I'm having a similar problem, the car will limp then cut out when I accelerate, but only under certain circumstances.

It is fine most of the time but I think it's mostly accelerating from low revs in a high gear, 1.5k in 6th for example. I can accelerate hard through town and I can accelerate hard at higher revs.

I'll change the fuel filter for a start (it's probably due a service anyway). I have seen it's possible to get second-hand injectors fairly cheap, but can they be relied on? I can't help but think it will be a lottery, and could come from a car with the same problems?
 
but can they be relied on?......err, no. It's buyer beware, as with anything s/h, and don't believe what the seller claims, or at least be prepared to be disappointed.

I can't help but think it will be a lottery, and could come from a car with the same problems?

You've got it! Why was the car scrapped in the first place?

But start with a new fuel filter anyway....do you know how long it's been in the car? Bearing in mind that it's probably never been changed during a garage 'service' . Some TF members say they replace 'em every 10kmiles, tho the handbook says at 37.5kmile intervals, tho' it also says to drain the water out of the filter every 12.5kmiles....you could do that for starters....there's a drain wheel on the bottom of the filter that you partially unscrew and catch the water in a small pot.
 
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