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I've just got hold of a inlet manifold from supposedly a '06 car but its actually dated
12 - 19 - 00

The part code according to it is:
157 G9E9 26JA
Shift 2ST

Can someone check to make sure the part is from a facelift or newer model please?

The flaps seem to be in ok condition - only a very tiny amount of movement in the flaps- the long steel connecting screw has no movement sidewards.

Many thanks guys for bringing this thread to mine (and others) attention. I too had Ford service my car for its entire life- not taking it to there again!
 
I have had a tapping rattle sort of noise for a while now and after reading this thread I think this is the problem. I have done the screwdriver to ear test and like some others here it is more noisy on the left side of the manifold by the washer bottle. Ford have quoted £175 +vat to supply a new one. What I was wondering is could I take of the manifold and just remove the flaps and then refit it?
 
Had my inlet manifold fails last week, took the manifold off and found only 3 of the flaps and missing about an inch of bar. This weekend I have removed the head and found lots of damage to #3 piston crown and the head found out i can get a second hand head for £40 but not sure if its a viable option to change the piston as the bore seems to be free of damage. any advice or should i just go for a replacement engine 1nstead :angryfire: just seem to be another victim of FORD rip off tactics - they wanted $500 just to investigate the fault.

2002 Mondeo LX Est 194,000 miles
 
dazzaman said:
I have had a tapping rattle sort of noise for a while now and after reading this thread I think this is the problem. I have done the screwdriver to ear test and like some others here it is more noisy on the left side of the manifold by the washer bottle. Ford have quoted £175 +vat to supply a new one. What I was wondering is could I take of the manifold and just remove the flaps and then refit it?
I was just wondering the same thing - does anyone know if these flaps can just be removed? First time I've even heard of them if I'm honest but I've got a rattle myself on my 51 2.0 ghia and am expecting to find the same thing tomorrow :sad:
 
Yes, but then you need to seal up the holes and you'll have a rough idle. Although it's a bit of an expense, you're better off fitting a new manifold and associated parts if you do have the symptoms.
 
cheers pal, i've whipped off the manifold today and there's a shit load of freeplay in it. no manifolds for sale anywhere local and i wanna stick it on bodies next year anyway so i've ripped out the paddles,glued the inserts and filled the holes with araldite so i might lose a bit of low end torque and my smooth idle but at least there'll be nothing 'tumbling' into my cylinders for now eh?
 
The results are in, I stuck the manifold back on today without the paddles and it's all good. It idles a dream, the rattle is gone, I haven't noticed any loss of power or torque at the bottom end, it starts even easier than it used to and there's nothing left to fall into my cylinders. Best part is, all it cost me was £25 for the new manifold gaskets and the araldite! So cheers for the help meggers! Without the forum I wouldn't have had any idea of the ticking time bomb that was my engine :thankyousign:
 
No worries pal.
Step 1-Removing the Manifold

Disonnect the battery negative terminal
Remove the plastic cover from over the top of the engine
Underneath the car, remove the lower oil dipstick tube retaining bolt (13mm socket) then the intake manifold lower retaining bolt (10mm spanner)
Remove the air intake pipe from the throttle body by releasing the clip and pulling it off (no pun intended)
Remove the throttle cable from the throttle body by unclipping the end (looks like a white plastic banjo over a black rubber washer) then remove it from the securing bracket by twisting it and pulling it off
Unplug the electrical connectors from the throttle position sensor and the idle air control valve (both on the same piece of loom)
Carefully remove the vaccuum hoses for the brakes (comes from the brake servo and takes a bit of pulling but comes off eventually if you persevere), the fuel pulse damper (comes from the top of the fuel rail) and the purge valve (comes over the top of the manifold and attaches on the front of it)
Detach the wiring loom from across the top of the manifold (you will have to pull off quite a few of the securing clips and also remove a few of the wiring connectors from around where the HT leads come from on the right hand side of the engine. Marking them up can help when putting it all back together)
Remove the upper retaining bolt for the oil level dipstick tube and remove the dipstick tube from the engine (fear not, as long as the engine is not over filled with oil and the car is parked on level ground, no oil will piss out)
(Apparently it isn't neccessary but I found it a little easier to complete the next step by removing the throttle body first. See how you go on but at the end of the day it's only four more bolts and it's off)
Unscrew the remaining 7 bolts securing the intake manifold and manoeuvre it out of the engine bay taking care not to damage the EGR pipe which sticks out of the engine on the right hand side. I found this picture of great help when trying to locate these seven bolts as not all of them can be seen and I had to use three different lenghts of extension bar to get them out - http://www.robertjenkins.co.uk/images/mondeo-manifold-1.jpg (cheers for that rob)

Step 2-Fixing the Manifold

After removing the manifold remove the vaccuum actuator unit from the side of it by removing the three torx screws and pulling it off
Next, pull the little arm off the end of the bar that the butterflies sit on
Using a screwdriver, pop out the blanking cap that covers the opposite end of the bar
Basically, the bar just needs knocking out of the manifold now and the butterflies will just fall out. The bar can be seized into the butterflies quite well though so try a bit of WD40 or something to free it up a bit then just bash it out with a hammer and a small screwdriver or a 3/8 socket extension bar or something of the like
Now that the butterflies have been removed most of the work is done
Clean up the inserts and the inside of the manifold where the inserts sit with some solvent and glue the inserts in with some super glue (not sure of this is neccessary but it's better safe than sorry eh?)
Now just clean out the holes at either end of the manifold where the rod sat with solvent then fill them with epoxy resin (one thing to note is that if you're replacing the actuator unit then there's a locating dowel that sits in the hole so don't fill it up too much)
Replace the actuator without the arm that fits on the rod then refit the manifold

Notes

I don't know how much difference it makes but I replaced the vaccuum actuator and reconnected it to the hose. It doesn't do anything to the butterflies any more but it saves blanking the hose off.

New gaskets for the inlet manifold should be used

A new gasket and O ring for the EGR and the dipstick tube SHOULD be used but I didn't bother

If you remove the dipstick tube first and replace it last then it makes removing and replacing the lower intake manifold retaining bolt much easier

The more of the pipes and wiring you remove, the easier the manifold is to remove

If you struggle to replace the manifold retaining bolts then use a small amount of masking tape to secure the bolt to the socket
 
craigk47 said:
The results are in, I stuck the manifold back on today without the paddles and it's all good. It idles a dream, the rattle is gone, I haven't noticed any loss of power or torque at the bottom end, it starts even easier than it used to and there's nothing left to fall into my cylinders. Best part is, all it cost me was £25 for the new manifold gaskets and the araldite! So cheers for the help meggers! Without the forum I wouldn't have had any idea of the ticking time bomb that was my engine :thankyousign:
I'd be interested to know if you suffer any other ill effects like higher fuel consumption / lumpy ride or anything like that, please keep us all informed as I'm sure there's lots of people (me included) currently looking at this option
 
I'm thinking of removing the plates from mine but I think it would be useful for other users to know what parts they need to buy from Fords to fit the "uprated" manifold. I've never fitted the new type manifold but I believe you require the following:

Image


So from the above you need:

1 x Intake Manifold (1) - FINS 1232544
4 x Gaskets (2) - FINS 1223677
1 x Seal (12) - FINS 1119833

Image


And from this you require:

1 x Tube Assembly (5) - FINS 1223435
1 x Valve Assembly (4) - FINS 1331598
1 x Grommit (6) - FINS 1212756
1 x Retainer (7) - FINS 1212998
1 x Seperator (1) - FINS 1357517
1 x Gasket (2) - FINS 1119856

The only other part I think you need is an oil indicator o-ring FINS 1007713.

Can anyone who has done this job verify that this information is correct? I can see the parts costing around £300 pounds from Ford as the inlet manifold in £230 alone.
 
hi, recently replaced my inlet with the new upgraded one. just under £260 from frauds for all the items (manifold/oil seperater and hose) all gaskets/seals were in situ. Didn't replace dipstick seal, i'm not a mechanic but only took about 2 hours in and out, wiring loom was the main obstruction!
good luck.
 
nicka said:
hi, recently replaced my inlet with the new upgraded one. Didn't replace dipstick seal, i'm not a mechanic but only took about 2 hours in and out, wiring loom was the main obstruction!
good luck.
I also changed the inlet manifold last saturday, it took me a fair amount of time... Getting the oilseparator hose connected to the manifold with the mainfold mounted to the eingine was a pain in the ass... I had to remove the starter-motor to get access to the hose. But in the end it went allright and it seems to be working fine now.

My car (2001 mondeo 2.0 Ghia estate with an automatic gearbox) had done 220.000 km when it first was troubled by an intermittant lack of power. Best noticed while driving 70 km/hour in highest gear (overdrive). It felt like the power went on and off every few seconds.

At first I thought it was the gearbox and had it checked by a tranmission-professional. According to him the box was in good condition.

So I went on renewing the DIS-unit, HT-leads and sparkplugs but nothing helped.

In the end I ordered a new manifold. Thanks to a mate of mine who has good connections I paid €260 for parts (manifold and oilseparator).

As I said earlier, it looks like the problem has gone away. And yes, the butterfly-valves weren't in good shape. Nothing too bad, no broken off bits that could end up in the engine but there was a fair amount of play on the bearings. The valves of the first and second cylinder didn't shut properly. I think this made the fuel - airmixture incorrect.

I still think it's a great car though..!

Christiaan
 
before i go splashing the cash gents are we saying this revised manifold from 2002 + onwards permanatly resolves the problem or is it likeley to crop up again, i listened to mine today and chamber 1 (nearest the header tank) was rather noisy on idle with a screw driver to the ear. otherwise 2 wernt as bad and 3 and 4 barely noticable. So confirmation from the guys that have had the revised one fitted that its cured it and is alledgdly the fix for good ?
cheers
 
As per CraigK I too removed the flaps form the manifold today and filled in the holes that would of been there once the bar was removed.

I can honestly say apart from the complete disapearance of the dreaded death rattle I can't notice any detrimental effect whatsoever.

The idle is exactly the same as it was, in fact if anything it's slightly more stable, and there's no noticable difference in performance.

I did things a little different as I glued the flap carrier back in after removing the flap itself but this was only to retain the seal and for no other reason.

I'll let you all know how I get on regarding fuel consumption and as the miles pile up, but as I was intending on replacing the manifold at some point before I lost the flaps in the engine I thought I would give this relatively cheap fix a go first to see if it would work and also to stop the problem reoccuring at some point in the future with a different manifold.

Worst case senario is that over time the car starts to suffer and I need to replace the manifold with a new one which I always knew I had too anyway, best case....the problem is fixed and never needs maintenance again I guess only time will tell.

It was alarming just how much the holes had elongated in relatively a few short months as when I last had the manifold off in the late summer there was next to no play then, and the best thing is that now the rattle has completely gone I should be able to sleep easier at night knowing that the engine should be sound.

Here's hoping it's fixed
 
it cured mine but will have to wait a few k miles before i know if the new intake has cured the problem.

but seen as i have not ( upto now anyway ) seen any facelift mk3's with intake problems ( hopefully if there has been then i will be corrected ) that could mean that its has been cured for good or at least alot longer than it was before meaning a much longer stretch before you have a hefty bill :(
 
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