Hi All! Am I the only one who finds that anti-rust metal primers for car use for brushing are just too quick to go off and it starts to congeal on the brush far too soon? I've just painted Jenolite rust converter (we'll see) on a subframe, and there's so many nooks and crannies that I found the water-based Jenolite ideal as it goes on nice and runny and doesn't set on the brush, but I just know I'll have so much trouble overcoating it with a xylene-based undercoat/treatment. So was thinking that there MUST be a better way... but is there?
nicam49
I tend to only use rattle can primers.
Starting with an acid etch primer, then high zinc anti rust grey primer.
For something like a subframe I'd either follow that with Hammerite stone chip then a top coat, or just a coat of Hammerite smooth.
The Hammerite smooth goes on nicely, but doesn't offer anywhere near the protection of hammerite brush paint.
Starting with an acid etch primer, then high zinc anti rust grey primer.
For something like a subframe I'd either follow that with Hammerite stone chip then a top coat, or just a coat of Hammerite smooth.
The Hammerite smooth goes on nicely, but doesn't offer anywhere near the protection of hammerite brush paint.
Forgot to add.
Surely you are supposed to follow the jenolite with the special jenolite primer?
Am I thinking of the wrong product?
Surely you are supposed to follow the jenolite with the special jenolite primer?
Am I thinking of the wrong product?
Hi Ray, this subframe is in situ, and so I'm working on my back. A spray can would only cover (just about) the flat areas, and there are plenty of curves and flanges to paint... really needs brushing. OK, I'll tackle the question from another angle.... is it possible to slow down the drying time for Hammerite so it behaves like an acrylic while it's being brushed on.... as I said before, that type of paint just conceals on the brush too soon to be workable for my purposes. If anyone on this forum knows, you do, Ray.
I recently bought some high temp paint called engine enamel to touch-up a bike frame, (it was a good colour match) and it seemed to be more 'user friendly' than normal xylene-based paint... and I could clean the brushes in white spirit! then I discovered that the Hammerite stop rust I used as undercoat,could ALSO be cleaned off with white spirit! Never knew that before, but it's much cheaper than xylene....which has just now made me wonder if I thin Hammerite a bit with white spirit, d'ya think that might make it more workable.. ie slow down the drying time
I recently bought some high temp paint called engine enamel to touch-up a bike frame, (it was a good colour match) and it seemed to be more 'user friendly' than normal xylene-based paint... and I could clean the brushes in white spirit! then I discovered that the Hammerite stop rust I used as undercoat,could ALSO be cleaned off with white spirit! Never knew that before, but it's much cheaper than xylene....which has just now made me wonder if I thin Hammerite a bit with white spirit, d'ya think that might make it more workable.. ie slow down the drying time
I have rarely used Hammerite brush on paint, and most of what I did use was the hammered variety.
I have bought a fair amount of larger tins of enamel 'high temp' enamel or 'engine' enamel and it all pretty much seems the exact same stuff..........and just the same as Humbrol air fix model enamel. Enamel paints are lovely to paint with, are fairly self levelling and give good protection compared to other paints. There are a fair few parts on my car painted in unbranded or Humbrol enamel.
Have you tried adding Hammerite brush cleaner and thinners to your brush paint? It's ideally for thinning the Hammerite fir spraying but might help with stopping the paint dragging.
I've heard some people say they use petrol for cleaning hammerite from paint brushes. I haven't tried this myself, but if it worked it would be a lot cheaper than using Hammerite brush cleaner.
On the subject of brushes, are you using bristle, synthetic or cheap black nylon bristle brushes? A good quality synthetic brush should be the least draggy.
Does Hammerite paint successfully over stone chip?
Stone chip gives excellent coverage abd would provide an excellent protective coat between the metal and final top coat. You couldn't spray the entire subframe in situ, but could do a fair bit of it.
On a tangent. It may be much better to coat the subframe in a very effective barrier such as dinitrol, then just use a free flowing enamel to get the top coat in the correct colour.
I have bought a fair amount of larger tins of enamel 'high temp' enamel or 'engine' enamel and it all pretty much seems the exact same stuff..........and just the same as Humbrol air fix model enamel. Enamel paints are lovely to paint with, are fairly self levelling and give good protection compared to other paints. There are a fair few parts on my car painted in unbranded or Humbrol enamel.
Have you tried adding Hammerite brush cleaner and thinners to your brush paint? It's ideally for thinning the Hammerite fir spraying but might help with stopping the paint dragging.
I've heard some people say they use petrol for cleaning hammerite from paint brushes. I haven't tried this myself, but if it worked it would be a lot cheaper than using Hammerite brush cleaner.
On the subject of brushes, are you using bristle, synthetic or cheap black nylon bristle brushes? A good quality synthetic brush should be the least draggy.
Does Hammerite paint successfully over stone chip?
Stone chip gives excellent coverage abd would provide an excellent protective coat between the metal and final top coat. You couldn't spray the entire subframe in situ, but could do a fair bit of it.
On a tangent. It may be much better to coat the subframe in a very effective barrier such as dinitrol, then just use a free flowing enamel to get the top coat in the correct colour.
Can you name names tho'? Does anyone make a 2 pack epoxy primer for brushing? And why aren't bilt hamber and dinitrol that everyone recommends not available in shops? I watched a channel4 prog similar to The Repair Shop where a post box was restored, and the restorer brush painted on etch primer from a tin...not an aerosol, where the heck do you get that stuff from?
Nick
I bought online. From what I can make out on the can, trying to see through the paint splatter !!, it says HB body, 989, 4:1 epoxy primer surfacer.
I've used it on rear surfaces of my alloys and the front rims and intend to use it on the bottom surfaces of the chassis.
It is non porous and sets like steel.
In my own opinion, if you want protection, this is the product.
Regards.
I bought online. From what I can make out on the can, trying to see through the paint splatter !!, it says HB body, 989, 4:1 epoxy primer surfacer.
I've used it on rear surfaces of my alloys and the front rims and intend to use it on the bottom surfaces of the chassis.
It is non porous and sets like steel.
In my own opinion, if you want protection, this is the product.
Regards.
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