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Caliper notches

5.9K views 16 replies 8 participants last post by  jono01  
#1 ·
Hi all
I replaced my rear pads and forgot to line up the notch on the piston with the caliper body after winding the piston out to accommodate the new pads (on 1 side of the car).
Will this cause any problems, it seems ok on the test drive

Thanks
Jono
 
#2 ·
Hi all
I replaced my rear pads and forgot to line up the notch on the piston with the caliper body after winding the piston out to accommodate the new pads (on 1 side of the car).
Will this cause any problems, it seems ok on the test drive

Thanks
Jono
they won't re-seat themselves so the only way to rectify this is to disassemble and reassemble correctly.

You may also expose the piston seal to the elements and road grime unnecessarily.
 
#3 ·
I forgot to do this after the last car failed its MOT on the rear brake pads, when I took it back for the re test the rear brakes were hardly working on one side (cant remeber if it was just on the hand brake test or not) I just took the pads back out and realigned them and what a difference when they tested them again. They felt fine to me driving to the testing station but the its the front that does most of the braking. I'd just pop the pads back out and line them up now as its will save come MOT time
 
#4 ·
the nothc is there to stop the rotation of the caliper piston when you apply the handbrake as it's operation is via a thread on the inside of the piston

the foot brake will work fine but the piston itself won't be applying even pressure on the pad or the disc which will lead to rapid failure of the pad due to it overheating

sounds a bit techinical but it's as easy as turning the piston so they all line up so get it sorted asap :)
 
#5 ·
I think it depends on if you have the earlier or later rear callipers (they changed in 2005).

I have the post 2005 ones and I don't think it matters (I've taken one apart before to unravel their mysteries and couldn't see how the piston position would make a jot of difference).

Two pad changes and I've never done this alignment and never any issues with pad wear or handbrake pressure (apart from one rusted calliper).

I wait to be corrected... :)

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#7 ·
Just out of interest, I lined the the cut out up with the notch on the pad by looking around the back of the caliper, so the cut out went around the little pin which sticks out of the back of the brake pad ( i forgot I was supposed to use the caliper body), is this the same thing as lining the notch up with the caliper notch.
 
#8 ·
Jono

The first thing we need to know is which caliper you are referring to :)

You probably already know that Ford were not very helpful with the rear caliper pistons in that either one can wind out in either direction, or if one caliper has been replaced thy can both wind out in the same direction lol.

The notches on the rear calipers line up differently on each side.

On the rear left caliper (near side) the short cut out must line up with the notch on the caliper body

On the rear right (offside) the long cut out must line up with the raised notch.

This has to be done on all years of mk3 rear brakes, and not doing it is why so many rear brakes fail on the mk3.
 
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#10 · (Edited by Moderator)
This has to be done on all years of mk3 rear brakes, and not doing it is why so many rear brakes fail on the mk3.
Mine don't have long and short cut outs. I should of mentioned I went to do this procedure the first time I ever changed them and found out that it couldn't be done.

Voila:

 

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#11 · (Edited by Moderator)
This has to be done on all years of mk3 rear brakes, and not doing it is why so many rear brakes fail on the mk3.
Mine don't have long and short cut outs. I should of mentioned I went to do this procedure the first time I ever changed them and found out that it couldn't be done.
Voila:

attachicon.gif
calliper.jpg
Do you remember what maker the calipers were from?
They have matching cut outs, so hopefully those cut outs were for something other than just being winding tool holes lol.
Was any other part of the caliper/pad change different to the normal routine.
I'm just curious really :), but also am aware that anyone fixing my mk3 in the future would face similar problems when they encounter jag parts or non ford parts fitted to my car lol.

Although, now I've had a quick think about a pad change it is normally quite obvious how the piston needs to be. By inserting the new pads it becomes quite easy to see how the face of the piston fits to the lumps on the pad. If that is not done properly then the piston is free to wind in and out whenever it chooses lol.
 
#12 ·
I bought the car at 57k miles, so the calliper should be original. The one in the pic I bought when one of my callipers seized - it was from a scrap dealers on ebay and advertised as being off a 2005 mondeo (same year as mine) and is identical to the one on the car.

I actually managed to overhaul and repair my existing calliper, so naturally, out of curiosity, I dismantled the replacement I had bought :)

I can't remember what brand it is off the top of my head, but I think it's still in a box of parts in my garage, so I'll have a look later.

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#15 · (Edited by Moderator)


  • Can I confirm then that if I have lined up the short cutout on the caliper on the rear left with this pin on the brake pad circled in red, then it is the same as lining up the cutout with the notch on the caliper and I am ok.
    Sorry that is correct, looking in the Haynes manual confused me so have checked on my car, ignore my above post.
 
#16 ·
yes, the notch on the pad goes into the notch in the piston to stop the piston from rotating and buggering up the handbrake mechanism

if you done it right it will be fine, if you've done it wrong, as i've said before, the pad won't be in contact with the disc and will overheat