Spot on, thanks for the links and prices

 

The Haynes manual is worth the investment, especially if you'll be doing more DIY work on your car.
Sometimes, it has some interesting advice that might not always be in installation manuals for various parts,
or other advice that might make the job a whole lot easier.

 

Ok, so I have now changed the compressor.

Tools required:

Ratchet set with 7, 8 and 10mm sockets
Ring spanners 8mm, 10mm
Torx bits / drivers
Water Pump Pliers
Jack / axel stands
Pag 46 air con oil
new condenser

NOTE - YOU MUST HAVE YOUR SYSTEM DISCHARGED BY A PROFESSIONAL BEFORE ATTEMPTING THIS.

ALSO BE VERY, VERY CAREFUL WITH THE CONDENSER. I DROPPED MINE FROM WAIST HEIGHT AND IT BROKE, COSTING ME ANOTHER £90 FOR A NEW ONE. I KID YOU NOT.

Even with having to buy two condensers, this fix was still £100 cheaper than I was quoted by a garage.

Had I not broken the first one, it would have cost me £150 in total, including recharge. My best quote from a garage was £350.

Step 1 - Prepare the vehicle

Open bonnet and raise vehicle. Support on Axle stands

Step 2 - remove undertrays

Remove both understrays at the front of the vehicle.
This is a combination of clips and screws

Step 3 - remove drivers headlight unit

Remove the drivers size headlight. First remove the two torx screws
Next push the whole unit towards the front of the car. This will allow the rear of the light to slot out.
Once the rear of the light has slotted out, the unit should be push back, allowing it to be removed.

I found the connector very, very difficult to remove. I decided there was less risk of damage if I let it just hang down (not ideal, I know)

Step 4 - Remove plastic cover over bonnet latch

This is very easy. Remove two plastic clips, then remove the cover. It is also clipped over on the back.

Step 5 - Remove the Intercooler (where fitted)

Loosen the jubilee clips. These are very difficult to get to. you will need a small rachet with a 7mm socket to achieve this.

Remove the pipes from each end of the intercooler.

Unbolt the intercooler (two bolts) and remove

Step 6 - Remove the "little plastic block"

There is a small plastic block that will get in your way as you remove the condenser later. Turn it 90 degrees to release it, then remove.

Step 7 - Disconnect the pipework

Do this from above the car (i.e. in the bonnet).

The connection is on the drivers side, below the headlight.

There will be 3 bolts to remove. They are difficult to get to and will require ring spanners.
1 bolt secures each of the 2 pipes. A 3rd bolt secures the condenser to the radiator

Take care not to loose the O rings

Step 8 - Remove the condenser

Go back under the car. The condenser is clipped to the radiator. It is removed by pushing it up, to disengage the clips, then pulling it down to remove it. You will probably have to help the clips to release using a screwdriver.

Step 9 - fitting the new condenser.

This can be fiddly. The connection on the condenser makes it a little awkward, but it will go in.

Push it up and carefully position it on the clips. The condenser is very fragile, so be very careful and check each clip one at a time.

DO NOT TRY AND FORCE THE CONDENSER DOWN INTO THE CLIPS BY PUSHING IT. YOU WILL DAMAGE IT!

This is where you need the water pump pliers. Use them to gently push the tabs on the condenser into the clips on the radiator.

You will know if it is in the right place, as the top fitting where the condenser screws into the radiator will line up.

Be patient. Do not force it.

Step 10 - Refitting everything else

Installation is the reverse of removal. Take care to ensure the condenser and pipework are clean before refitting. The Aircon oil is useful for this. Also apply it to the o ring seals.

And Finally - take your car to a pro for full vacuum, leak test and recharge. Don't even think about trying a DIY can. The system needs to be vacuumed to remove moisture.

 

Marvellous, thank you for contributing

 

I do this work for a living, mobile aircon.

And you missed one crucial bit of advice, which is that you should ideally "always" change the reciever drier / Accumulator whenever the condenser has a clear leak on it.

this maybe 1 reason why your quote was higher as it might of included the reciever drier.

Reciever drier / Accumulators are, despite being often neglected, a service item with a recommended change interval of every 3 years but often the reason why it is not the worst thing in the world to neglect is because the system is never open for more than 4 hours.

BUT, when you have a hole in the condensor or a big leak they should ALWAYS be changed, because as soon as they are opened to the atmosphere they have a 4 hour lifespan.

Their purpose is to soak up moisture from the system, if you do not change it, and it is depleted then it wont keep the system dry properly and it may come back to haunt you later on because any moisture in the system reacts with the refrigerant and turns to an acid which then corrodes the condenser and other components from the inside out being alluminium acid doesnt mix well with it.

 

Thankyou for your input RB2004 - I always welcome expert advice.

However, the dryer is integrated into the condenser in the mk4 mondeo. By changing the condenser for a new one I changed the dryer as well.

 

Haven't done a mk4 one yet lol so didn't know that.

But still valid advice for anybody who is changing a condenser, on a model which doesn't have it built in.

My mk 2.5 focus has a separate accumulator and so does the mk1s and mondeo mk2 and 3.

Just pointing it out because it does get neglected, especially when people are trying to save money and it can come back to haunt them later on.

Even seen other Aircon service people not bother with accumulator or drier but I think they should at least advise.

Glad you got it all sorted

 

Well Done, and thank you so much for providing the detail for us!!! :lol:

 

Thanks for all this info. Found out today that my condenser has a hole in it as well... shocker!

As i live in Norway, the dealer here was quoting my around 8200 NOK (around £820 excluding VAT) for the part for which I was clearly thinking no way, have to do my research first! So thanks to your info and help, I can get the part delivered here to Norway for £112. Now to find a garage to do the work for me.

Thanks again

 

I've just had a pressure test, new condenser, service and regas with cleaning agent added at a local specialist for £220- I'm more than happy with that to be honest

I recommend Advanced Radiators at Bells Close Lemmington. Newcastle upon Tyne

Posted Via The Free TalkFord.com App

 

Had to replace my condenser yesterday - so just to add to the 'how to' aspect -

You can do it without removing the headlight (as long as you have a long extension bar) and the lower pair of the four 'clips' can be released without a screwdriver by squeezing the plastic immediately above them - it's a LOT easier than trying to prize them open, as it should just slide straight up. The same for refitting.

Mine needed gassing every year, and each time their 'machines' said there was no leak. I noticed that it clearly had been leaking when I swapped my intercooler last month, so I guess some of the machines can't detect small leaks. See if you can guess where the leak was!

 

Where the best place to get the ac system degassed. Mine needs doing and im refuseing to pay 390£ to get it done. Would kwick fit etc do this.

 

Yes, Kwick Fit will do it

 

An earlier post today from Mark

Are these anywhere near you

http://www.talkford.com/community/topic/327969-groupon-air-con-offer/

 

Good find. Thank you.

 

Thanks for the lead TreborB, the nearest ATS is 12 miles from me but groupon came up with two others at 9 miles at £18 and £19 plus extra 15% for signing up, well done

 

Further to previous make sure you read conditions on these offers, when deciding which one to go for I noticed that one had surcharge of £15 after 500 gram and other had surcharge after 575 gram although both said upto 2ltr vehicle which mine is, according to Haynes the Mondeo has a capacity of 530 gram so beware?