Right, Not got as far as I'd liked to today. Partly because I couldn't get motivated, but also because my littlest has his xmas play at school @2.30 so I gotta go..

I've wired my drl's in to the +ve on the reverse light switch so they now come on with ign as proper drl's should. Previously just has them wired into side lights..

I've also stuck the amber led strip to the underside of one headlamp and just wired it straight into the indicator for now so I could see how it would all look.

I had to cut the smd strip into 3 to get it to go with the curve of the headlamp, a bit fiddly, but had to be done.

So now I have 1 indicator strip working in conjunction with the normal indicator on that side..

http://s129.photobucket.com/albums/p215/boratsbaby/Y658%20WEN/?action=view&current=MVI_0785.mp4[/media]

[media]http://s129.photobucket.com/albums/p215/boratsbaby/Y658%20WEN/?action=view&current=MVI_0787.mp4

 

I think it looks rather good but as you can see from the next vid, you can't really see it with the drl on. So turning the drl off when the indicator is on is a must !

http://s129.photobucket.com/albums/p215/boratsbaby/Y658%20WEN/?action=view&current=MVI_0786.mp4

 

Impressive!!!

But to make the DRL go off when the indicator goes on surely must be a nightmare? When I get all the suspension sorted I may look at adding something like this tho I must admit I did think of putting the DRLs inside the headlight now i'm not so sure....decisions decisions!

G.

 

Some more pics :

The drl's position :

The indicator strip stuck to the underside of the headlamp :

The fiddly soldering I had to do :

 

I would put micro relays between the DRL's, and take the control for the relays from the indicato switch at the stearing colum.

You put indicator left, as long as the switch is at the left position, it passes controll current to the micro relay between the DRL, opens the relays contacts and shuts down the DRL. When the indicator switch is released, control current cuts out, microrelays contacts closes, and drl lights up again.

Then duplicate for the right side.

 

Thing is, all the wiring for the drl's is in the engine bay.

It would be a lot more work to start feeding wiring through to the steering column and to be honest, I feel unnecersary.

The way described in this thread is simple enough and would work so no need to complicate things ??

 

Yay !!

I got one side completed today, despite the rain/hail/sleet !!

I've put the electronics on a small circuit board to tidy things up a bit..

Heres the video, scuse the bloody racket from over the road, Johno's alarm has been going off all day

 

That seems to work great Rik. Do you mean that bit of a circuit worked OK, cos it blew my mates car up.

What value cap did you put in BTW?

 

Yeah, works a treat Phil !

Thanks again for your help !

I tried 1500uf and 1000uf. The 1500 held the realy for just a little too long.. The 1000 is a gnats cock short of perfect.. The video was shot with the engine off and shows the white drl just blinking into life before the indicator comes on again. When the engine is running this doesn't occur so no probs.

All I need to do now is make sure the circuit board is weather resistant

I'm really pleased with the outcome !

Now to do the other side !

BB

 

Ah yes I see the whites flick on. Looks good though.

Mind you before you waterproof the bits you could solder a 220uF across the 1000uF to lengthen the time a little.

 

It works good enough Phil when the engine is running so I'll leave as is !

I'm having real trouble with the other bloody side though !! Grrrrr..

Built the circuit up and put it across the indicator to make sure it worked ... Nothing ? No clicking relay ..

De-soldered the relay and tried it on its own, Nothing ??

Back to maplin with the relay, changed for a new one, back home, tried it across the indicator, click click click click no problem, !!

Built it back into the circuit, fitted it, NOTHING ???? GRRRRRRR

Took it off the board again, tried it on its own, click click brill, soldered the cap across it, nothing ?

So it appears I have a duff cap aswell. I've given up for today and put the car back together ! Will try tomorrow !

Have another video though showing the working side a bit better !! complete with me and my wild hair !!

 

That's disappointing isn't it? Strange a cap to go though but to have a relay go too they'll be asking you what you've don't with them, but theres nothing on the car that can damage them if its 12V. Cap could blow up if you connected it the wrong way but that's a bit too obvious and a bit of a giveaway really. If you connect the capacitor across 12V to charge it up then remove the cap from the 12V and then short the cap leads out with a bit of wire or screwdriver do you get a spark? If you have a test meter, you could set it to ohms and connect it across the capacitor and you should see a flick of the meter, or if its digital you should see the resistance drop rapid and then increase up to Megaohms, both these sort of prove the cap is OK but it doesn't tell you the capacitance.

Well it looks a really lady with eyelashes flashing like that

 

You now sorted Rik, both sides working?

 

Just waiting for my caps to arrive !

I couldn't be bothered going back to maplin on Sunday so ordered some off ebay on Sunday eve. I've got plenty of axial types and a couple of radials but all the wrong value (too high)

I've got everything else in place so as soon as they come it's just a case of soldering them in.

I've started wondering about the complications come MOT time. As these are additional to the standard indicators, I shouldn't think there would be a problem, but I'm just not sure.

Hmm...

 

nice mods fair play. not something id do but its impressive all the same.

id be worried about the freezing cold weather on the circuits or are all the joins going to be covered up ?

 

Thanks !

To keep the wires as short as possible, I've built the circuit at the inside corner of the headlamp, and just tucked it inside and under the bumber at the moment..

Although it survived twenty M62 miles in the rain today, I'm not counting on it surviving many more..

So I'm going to put the completed board inside a small waterproof tupperware with a connector something like THIS on to weather proof the whole thing.

 

good idea

its more the freezing weather tho rather than the rain i would have thought that would affect it.

 

It should be ok..

If needs be, I can cable tie some foam or something around it to protect it a bit !

No problem.

 

soon find out im sure

 

Arrrggghhhh..

This bloody other side is really doing my head in !!

Got it wired up to test it and it worked !!

Brill.. Stick the lid on the box to waterproof it, stuff it all behind the bumper, now it doesn't work !!

I did not alter or re-solder any connections.

My multi meter is showing 12v at the cap and the relay coil pins when the indicator is on, but it's not pulling the relay in ??

Beginning to think it's more bloody effort than it's worth.

 

Sorry cant read your last line there Rik, seems to be obscured.

Check your soldering, it may look good but is it underneath.

 

Yeah, I've checked all joints and connections.. 12v at the relay coil, but its just not pulling it in.

Lack of current perhaps is all I could think, although when I thought of this, I gave the engine a good rev to build it up, but even with the engine @ 2k revs, nothing ?

I'm going to leave it now and have a bloody good weekend !

Have a good one yourselves !!

 

Ha, SORTED !!

I'd wired the relay up reverse polarity..

I thought they were bi-polar, obviously not.

I've weather proofed both aswell by putting them in a waterproof/airtight tupperware with the wires going through holes iv'e drilled in the sides then sealed up with a little bostick..

Anyway, I've done another vid showing both sides which I'll put up in a bit.

 

 

Whats with the Drivers side sidelight? Delay then it came on with the headlights.

 

Looks good Rik, even if the delay to ON seems just a little long. Oh saw your post regards the relays being polarized versions.

Yes looks like your OS sidelight has a poor connection, that's the trouble with LEDs having a much lower current, they don't like a bit of crud on the contacts and there isn't enough current to slightly arc and clean itself.

You got there.

 

Yeah, I'd noticed that with the sidelight when I was videoing it (I had a mirror set up for when I was testing) which is why I flicked it on off a few times although to no avail

and also why my ugly mush was lit up when dip and main beam came on, ha ha !!

Something else I'll have to check out.. LOL

Happy with the rest though !

 

Think they look really good. How hard is it to do the wiring?

 

It's fiddly at best. The problem I've had is that the only time I get to do stuff like this is in the evening when the kids have gone to bed. And lately the evenings have not been kind to me.

If you can set aside, and dedicate a whole day to it, you should be able to complete it in that time. The important thing is to weatherproof the components or else your hard work will not last very long.

Theres a circuit diagram in THIS thread which shows the wiring (Credit to Phil for this). The DRL's live is taken from the reverse light switch on the gearbox and the feed to the relay is taken directely from the indicator wire on the headlamp multiplug, I connected all my earths to the 2 bolts which hold the bonnet lock in place as it's position was perfect. The 2 tupperwares which contain the electronics are cable tied to the bar infront of the radiator, right below the front grille.

Must admit, I'm really pleased with the results.