The ECU controls the fuel injection and fires the injectors and the injector calibration codes are programmed into the ECU, the pump on the TDCi is just a dumb pump which supplies pressure, it doesn't even have to be timed so you can change it with no re-programming required.

 

i would get a second opinion, sounds like his tring it on to me, get loads of mondeos with theses dtc's

i would change the fuel filter 1st and try it, if still the same then get a leak off test done of injectors, if they r all ok then change the metering valve on fuel pump

i sure that a refined pump was fitted too cars after 2002 year

 

He then went into detail about the fuel pumps having poor bearings in them and when they break down the debris can migrate up to the injectors,

There were problems with the injection pumps on early models which could cause metal debris to get into the injector pipework & injectors, there's a procedure which involves collecting diesel & checking for metal particles - this is probably what he is referring to.

Ford recommend that the pipes from the common rail to the injectors are replaced when the injectors are changed to avoid problems with any foreign matter that gets in during removal causing problems, they even provide clear warnings that a vacuum should be used to clean the area when any part of the fuel system is to be opened.

 

Thanks for the info guys it really helps, is the metering valve different to the pump or built in to it ?

I was gonna start at the pump and move to the leak off next.

Yeah I think the advise I was given was a little bias, wanna keep my car now i've done a couple of liitle mods

 

hi i have a ford focus 06 110 diesel zetec had turbo replaced bacause it had gone it was fine for to days then had problems starting it . it started with easy start and jump startin but now it dosnt start . but when it dose start its perfect i bought this car for work but its draining me out now spent over 1000 pounds . its showing the code p0251 and mechanics in bradford dont know where to start from i would like to know the exact problem and see if its worth getting repaired and if not ill get rid of it plz tell me what it might be and how much it might cost me . ps it feels as if its not getting enough diesel to start because it starts with easy start .thanks any advice would be much appreciated

 

what engine? 1.6, 1.8 or 2.0?

have they checked all connections, as 1 for metering valve may b loose?

when was the fuel filter last changed? but always worth replacing regardless

may b themetering valve sticking stopping the rail pressure getting up to pressure

 

its 1.6 diesel have these cars got alot of common faults thanks.

 

He then went into detail about the fuel pumps having poor bearings in them and when they break down the debris can migrate up to the injectors,

There were problems with the injection pumps on early models which could cause metal debris to get into the injector pipework & injectors, there's a procedure which involves collecting diesel & checking for metal particles - this is probably what he is referring to.

Ford recommend that the pipes from the common rail to the injectors are replaced when the injectors are changed to avoid problems with any foreign matter that gets in during removal causing problems, they even provide clear warnings that a vacuum should be used to clean the area when any part of the fuel system is to be opened.
[/quote]

Well I've got some great news, all the pump thing was complete crap, some sound advice from a friend of a friend that work for an injector test company.

One of my injectors was failing and returning too much fuel to tank rather than hold the pressure in the common rail.

A simple test, disconnect the electrical plug on the injectors and the downstream pipe of the leak off, crank the engine over and if you see a noticable difference if the flow in the leak off then that the likely problem injector.

I took mine in a great place in High wycombe and they changed the injector and reprogramed it for 250 quid, the ecu still needs to learn the injector foot print to make sure you do 100 miles plus before worrying about it.

I've now done over 500 miles, with cruise control, ragging the arse off it, and round town driving,

All good !

My buddy also said the pump problem would indicate by rough idle which i never had, or tap off a sample from the leak off return pipe and boil off the diesel and see if you have a brassy deposit left after.

Mat

 

He then went into detail about the fuel pumps having poor bearings in them and when they break down the debris can migrate up to the injectors,

There were problems with the injection pumps on early models which could cause metal debris to get into the injector pipework & injectors, there's a procedure which involves collecting diesel & checking for metal particles - this is probably what he is referring to.

Ford recommend that the pipes from the common rail to the injectors are replaced when the injectors are changed to avoid problems with any foreign matter that gets in during removal causing problems, they even provide clear warnings that a vacuum should be used to clean the area when any part of the fuel system is to be opened.

Well I've got some great news, all the pump thing was complete crap, some sound advice from a friend of a friend that work for an injector test company.

One of my injectors was failing and returning too much fuel to tank rather than hold the pressure in the common rail.

A simple test, disconnect the electrical plug on the injectors and the downstream pipe of the leak off, crank the engine over and if you see a noticable difference if the flow in the leak off then that the likely problem injector.

I took mine in a great place in High wycombe and they changed the injector and reprogramed it for 250 quid, the ecu still needs to learn the injector foot print to make sure you do 100 miles plus before worrying about it.

I've now done over 500 miles, with cruise control, ragging the arse off it, and round town driving,

All good !

My buddy also said the pump problem would indicate by rough idle which i never had, or tap off a sample from the leak off return pipe and boil off the diesel and see if you have a brassy deposit left after.

Mat

He then went into detail about the fuel pumps having poor bearings in them and when they break down the debris can migrate up to the injectors,

There were problems with the injection pumps on early models which could cause metal debris to get into the injector pipework & injectors, there's a procedure which involves collecting diesel & checking for metal particles - this is probably what he is referring to.

Ford recommend that the pipes from the common rail to the injectors are replaced when the injectors are changed to avoid problems with any foreign matter that gets in during removal causing problems, they even provide clear warnings that a vacuum should be used to clean the area when any part of the fuel system is to be opened.

Well I've got some great news, all the pump thing was complete crap, some sound advice from a friend of a friend that work for an injector test company.

One of my injectors was failing and returning too much fuel to tank rather than hold the pressure in the common rail.

A simple test, disconnect the electrical plug on the injectors and the downstream pipe of the leak off, crank the engine over and if you see a noticable difference if the flow in the leak off then that the likely problem injector.

I took mine in a great place in High wycombe and they changed the injector and reprogramed it for 250 quid, the ecu still needs to learn the injector foot print to make sure you do 100 miles plus before worrying about it.

I've now done over 500 miles, with cruise control, ragging the arse off it, and round town driving,

All good !

My buddy also said the pump problem would indicate by rough idle which i never had, or tap off a sample from the leak off return pipe and boil off the diesel and see if you have a brassy deposit left after.

Mat

 

Hi Matt I live in High Wycombe and have the same error code come up .Where did you take it .

 

Matt last active mar 2013.. You might want to start a new topic. Changed the filter for a genuine bosch ford delphi one lately? If not, check contentsband media for metal particles....

 

Hi, I have a 2004 Mondeo TDCI 130 Auto that Keeps Going into limp mode in 3rd Gear at around 3000rpm when being pushed fairly hard. I get the p0251 fault code and it normally stalls or has limited power. I have tried changing the fuel filter and while it seems smoother it still goes into limp mode followed by cutting out which as its automatic can be intresting. I have checked the old fuel filter and it didnt have any debris in it so i think the pump is ok but i am worried that its an injector issue. I checked the fuel rail pressure and at idle its fluctuating between 180 and 250 bar so i think this is obviously an issue but dont know what would cause it. Also it has now decided not to start from cold without easy start. Any Help would be really appreciated

 

Common problem with ageing TDCis....there's a check list....(cheapest/easiest 1st) fuel filter you've ruled out already,

worth trying a good quality diesel additive to the tank, but a bottle to 1/4 tank (or less) for the concentration,

I use Forte but others on here swear by BG244. Note that neither are available from Halfords.

Then it's checking the injectors, which is best done by a proper Delphi diesel specialist with their test rig, tho' a less conclusive test can be done by yourself using a leak-off test kit, approx £20 on ebay, BUT they could pass the leak-off test and still be faulty in other ways due to overfuelling which the leak-off test can't detect. btw, a Delphi diesel specialist will charge around £20 per injector to test.

There's a valve on the back of the fuel pump called a IMV, or inlet metering valve, which may cause this problem, so cost around £30-50, but maybe worth changing if so far no luck, then I'm afraid it's fuel pump, which altho' might not be breaking up, still might not be delivering the required pressure.

There's plenty of threads on here from people who have gone through the above process and ended up having to change the pump in the end after all, but best to try the obvious 1st.

If you don't want to diy, then a proper diesel specialist, (not a generic garage) has all the proper test equipment to test your fuel system from tank to injectors. Beware any garage mechanic that just 'diagnoses' injectors (a full set!) without even getting his hands dirty....it's a nice fat profit for them for very little work and they soon lose interest once they've taken yer money and it's still not fixed!

Best not use easystart as, according to some on the forum, it can cause the timing chain to jump a cog.

Good luck, and for the forum, please keep us updated! Any further Q??s just ask the forum and we'll do our best to help.

btw, debris in the fuel filter is unlikely...apparently if the pump is breaking up, it takes the form of very fine dust-like particles....

 

Common problem with ageing TDCis....there's a check list....(cheapest/easiest 1st) fuel filter you've ruled out already,

worth trying a good quality diesel additive to the tank, but a bottle to 1/4 tank (or less) for the concentration,

I use Forte but others on here swear by BG244. Note that neither are available from Halfords.

Then it's checking the injectors, which is best done by a proper Delphi diesel specialist with their test rig, tho' a less conclusive test can be done by yourself using a leak-off test kit, approx £20 on ebay, BUT they could pass the leak-off test and still be faulty in other ways due to overfuelling which the leak-off test can't detect. btw, a Delphi diesel specialist will charge around £20 per injector to test.

There's a valve on the back of the fuel pump called a IMV, or inlet metering valve, which may cause this problem, so cost around £30-50, but maybe worth changing if so far no luck, then I'm afraid it's fuel pump, which altho' might not be breaking up, still might not be delivering the required pressure.

There's plenty of threads on here from people who have gone through the above process and ended up having to change the pump in the end after all, but best to try the obvious 1st.

If you don't want to diy, then a proper diesel specialist, (not a generic garage) has all the proper test equipment to test your fuel system from tank to injectors. Beware any garage mechanic that just 'diagnoses' injectors (a full set!) without even getting his hands dirty....it's a nice fat profit for them for very little work and they soon lose interest once they've taken yer money and it's still not fixed!

Best not use easystart as, according to some on the forum, it can cause the timing chain to jump a cog.

Good luck, and for the forum, please keep us updated! Any further Q??s just ask the forum and we'll do our best to help.

btw, debris in the fuel filter is unlikely...apparently if the pump is breaking up, it takes the form of very fine dust-like particles....

Have you read this thread which is similar to yours..

http://www.talkford.com/community/topic/330298-flashing-glowplug-light-limp-home-mode-and-code-p0251/

 

Another thought....there have been to my recollection 3 reports by TF members trying to resolve this issue and having exhausted all other possibilities first, that the problem was a blockage in the swirlpot inside the fuel tank caused by one of those cardboard disks that used to be used to seal bottles. It seems that in the past, some fuel additive had been added without taking due care to remove the sealing disk from the bottle 1st, and this had worked it's way into the swirlpot resulting in intermittent reduction in fuel flow. Not easy to find, as you've got to drop the tank to find it.

Have you read this thread which is similar to yours..

http://www.talkford....and-code-p0251/

 

That thread above was one I posted and let me tell you it was a big head ache to diagnose and took a good couple of months but I persevered and ended up eventually fixing it , after changing everything on the checklist mine ended up being the fuel pump, even though there was no signs of it breaking down and even looking brand new and shiny it just could not provide the fuel pressure needed and high loads and rpm, if I can recommend anything to make it easier for you , it's to get yourself a f-super lead and forscan, that helped me greatly

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

For P0251 you absolutely need to check FRP (fuel rail pressure), it should be over 1200 in 5 seconds, with all injectors and IMV disconnected. If above 1200 then check injectors, if not then try with completely separate fuel feed. P0251 is P0190 really.