Do i just need to put a new alternator on or is this something else? Car is fine for 2 or 3 minutes. Then the battery light comes on. If i turn engine off and restart it goes out but then comes back on after 2 or 3 mins again. Car is a 62 plate 2.0 tdci titx. Hope somebody can help. Tia

 

Just put multimeter on battery with engine running. I am getting 11.75 volts. I know thats not right. Should be at about 14v while engine is running.

 

What happens to the output voltage when you bring the engine rpm up?

What does the battery measure without the engine running - and again, after standing idle for a couple of hours?

Any recent changes to hardware, or servicing, etc?

Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk

 

I will check tomorrow. I had the car running and took the terminal off the battery and car hesitated and nearly cut out then the revs went up and it stayed running. Put terminal back on. Put meter on it again and was reading 13.75v. Left it running for 5 mins then the battery light came back on.

 

try this

https://www.picoauto.com/library/automotive-guided-tests/ford-smart-alternator/

also do a visual check on the wires from the alternator going to the ECU - there could be a broken wire or bad connection in the plug.

 

I dont have the tools to do that test. I am now assuming that its a broken signal wire. As when i unplug the signal wire and run the car it does the same thing. Does anybody know which pin and which plug on the ecu this wire goes to as i would like to check to see if its broken without stripping the whole loom apart to trace it back. Tia

 

Does charging voltage not go to a default 13v with the signal wire unplugged, if not check charging voltage at the alternator to rule out a connection problem.

 

I have changed the alternator today for 1 off of another car. All i am getting is 12.3v rgardless of signal wire. I am getting extremely stressed out with it now. I have traced the signal wire back to ecu and it is not damaged. Put a meter on it at alternator end and ecu end and i am getting no resistance. So that cable is fine. I just cant work out what is going on. Yesterday i took terminal off the battery while car was running and it stayed running. Today i did the same thing after changing alternator and it cut out straight away. Any ideas. Should i swap alternators back round? As at least yesterday it was throwing out 13.75 volts.

 

When i rev car up to 1500 rmp i am getting 13.8 volts

 

At 1500 rpm with battery terminal off of the positive i get 14v

 

At tick over with battery disconnected i am now getting 13.8 v

 

Just connected battery terminal again and still getting 13.8v removed terminal and car stayed running.

 

Battery off enginge running lights on 13.8v. I am at a loss here.

 

If you clear the fault codes with the new alternator installed does the battery light stay out.

If your car has regenerative charging the charge voltage can be from 12.2 volts to 14.8.

 

I will try and clear the dtc tomorrow tried to clear it before i changed alternator and it wouldnt clear with ids. I have left the battery off overnight aswell so will plug it all up tomorrow and clear dtc before starting

 

Code will not clear. I cant find any info about this fault anywhere on the net. I am at a loss.

 

Does this help?

http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/35767-p1632-smart-alternator-faults-sensorcircuit-malfunction/

 

Does your scanner show data for the battery monitoring sensor to see if its showing correct values.

 

After changing alternator. Running a new sensor wire and still having the fault. It turned out to be a bad earth. 8 or so hours wasted. Took 5 mins to clean the earth strap from body to gearbox. Fault cleared and light off. Bloody new technology is such a pain. Just glad its sorted. I was at my wits end.

 

There is a single white wire coming of the battery housing joined and clipped on the bulk head. Unplug it and run car, this will stop your battery light coming on. I,m unsure myself as to wether this is the signal feed to the battery smart module or if it is just the battery light feed. Either way it means there is an issue but my 2011 4.5 2.0 tdci tx runs fine with it unplugged. Strangely, New battery and alternator. Battery is showing 12.04v static. Alternator on cold start is showing only 11.7 output. Q.what is the white box that is fastened to the ground terminal on the battery. Red wire from the + goes to it and the white wire which I have unplugged goes to it also. I suspect it is to do with the smart charge.

 

After changing alternator. Running a new sensor wire and still having the fault. It turned out to be a bad earth. 8 or so hours wasted. Took 5 mins to clean the earth strap from body to gearbox. Fault cleared and light off. Bloody new technology is such a pain. Just glad its sorted. I was at my wits end.

Where abouts is the earth strap from the body to the gearbox?

 

I've got a similar problem, Intermittent battery warning light on the dash I get a consistent 13.8v when the warning light is on and 14.4v (I believe) when the warning light is off so I think there is a bad wire or short somewhere.

The alternator checks out as far as I can tell (Multimeter testing only) and the battery works excellent (Had it in another car) with no problems.

After some searching for a solution I found a similar video on Youtube which lead me to talkford.

I haven't had chance to look for the earth strap myself yet but I suspect it could possibly be the cause of the problem, Or at least I'm hoping so As It's a fairly simple fix!

The question I have is, Before I start, Where are the problem wires that I should be checking for?

 

I've got a similar problem, Intermittent battery warning light on the dash I get a consistent 13.8v when the warning light is on and 14.4v (I believe) when the warning light is off so I think there is a bad wire or short somewhere.

The alternator checks out as far as I can tell (Multimeter testing only) and the battery works excellent (Had it in another car) with no problems.

After some searching for a solution I found a similar video on Youtube which lead me to talkford.

I haven't had chance to look for the earth strap myself yet but I suspect it could possibly be the cause of the problem, Or at least I'm hoping so As It's a fairly simple fix!

The question I have is, Before I start, Where are the problem wires that I should be checking for?

Same issue here, two years ago battery light started coming on intermittently. Garage replaced alternator and battery, was ok for about a month, then battery light started to come back on. Ignored it till two weeks ago, battery light on permanently, then card wouldn't start. Charged battery up myself, its OK for a few days, then wont start. So looks like battery is not being charged.

 

Battery / Alternator test... http://www.talkford.com/topic/205394-battery-test-procedure/

 

I had the same fault code . First I cleaned the earth strap, but it didn't solved problem. Then I bought an alternator data wire repair kit (Elparts 51277370). It has plug and 0,5m of wire. To do the fix, you need to unplug AC clutch and oilpan sensor from underneath the car. So far it looks that this repair works. No more battery fault light for a month now.