[SimonBUK]

Anybody know how much this should be at a local garage (not FORD main dealer).

Think mine might be replacing as I'm sure I'm hearing an extra rumble from somewhere.......

 

[hardy1812]

Anybody know how much this should be at a local garage (not FORD main dealer).

Think mine might be replacing as I'm sure I'm hearing an extra rumble from somewhere.......

You buying the bits ?? Or getting them to buy them ??,,, only asking as I put cheapo parts first round and ended up replacing about a year later,,, think I payed about £80 for a kit but now I have a Gaites belt, genuine ford engine pulley and a SKF and another recommended brand on the tensioner,, been quite as a mouse ever since
If you buy the parts I’d reckon maybe 2-3 hour minimum charge from the garage,,, then if they buy the bits it’ll depend on what they/you want to fit,, just ring the garage and get a quote then do it yourself it’ll be cheaper 🤣

 

[SimonBUK]

I was away at the time so had to get someone else to fit it.
Apparently it was all BG Automotive stuff. Hope it's decent stuff !

 

[nicam49]

Here's pics of the 3 pulleys, as you might be able to see, they are all different!

This 1st set of pics are of the top pulley.

This next one is the pulley on the tensioner

and this is the ribbed one.
The 2 smooth ones might have the same width and outside diameter, but the rest of the details are different.

 

[imacleod]

I've just taken mine to bits again for what I thought was a tensioner pulley failure - having seen scrore marks from the belt - but seems to be a more general failure

I don't believe it was loose, but the only other explanation would be that the assembly distorted; the pulley has been rubbing on the block and the belt rubbing on the other side.

Has anyone else had this happen?

 

[nicam49]

? I don't get it... Mine doesn't look anything like yours
Has the pulley bearing disintegrated or something...?

 

[DavieWeegie]

to be honest I dont think I've seen one like yours nicam, the one above is the usual one, unless its just your picture thats throwing me off.

I've not seen that damage on the pulley before but I have seen the belt being very over to the one side of the pulley, so close in fact that it looked like it shouldve been rubbing but the guy said it had been like that for over 5 years.

 

[imacleod]

? I don't get it... Mine doesn't look anything like yours
Has the pulley bearing disintegrated or something...?

You've got the tensioner and mount - that goes between the alternator and the back of the block (and holds the grooved pulley) - still attached/assembled; my photo is just the tensioner.

 

[DavieWeegie]

ahh thats it, the mount was making me think it was different, the bolt to the left in nicams pic is the spring bolt.

 

[Geierstürzflug]

I too now have to do this job and turned to this tread for help. Its full of extremely useful information but its now been compromised by the photobucket fiasco. So pictures no longer available. After a bit of a search I found some pictures of the engine out of the car which help enormously to understand where the various components go.

I thought I would share them here in case someone else finds them useful.

Excellent; thank you.
After 18 pages of head-scratching, the photos clarify what I'm about to tackle in the confined space of the engine compartment!
They should be a sticky!

 

[nicam49]

Pics are at reply #343

 

[Rekusu]

Just trying to get my ducks in a row.

Am about to order the three pulleys, two idler and one v-belt. Am I correct that the two flat surfaced idler pulleys albeit the same, are different in that one has a stand-off?

Am I correct that it is virtually impossible to replace the top idler as it is mounted on the engine block mount? Therefore the mount has to be removed? Can this be done without lowering the engine or does lowering/raising just makes life easier?

 

[imacleod]

@Rekusu , from what I recall, you can push the alternator back on its bolts (does not need to be removed) and the block mounting bracket for the top idler (four bolts) must be removed. It's the plain idler with the standoff - under the engine mount/before the AC compressor - that needs the engine dropped in order to allow removal.

 

[nicam49]

Hi Rex, dunno why it's called a V belt, 'cos its flat!
I've just fitted new pulleys and the smooth one on the engine mount, what I did was to support the engine so I cld remove the engine mount, then Removed the bracket on the timing chain cover, (you have to remove nut holding pulley on, slide pulley away to get to undo bolt behind it) then fit new pulley etc
Lowering the engine still didn't give me enough clearance to slide pulley off, so did it that way..

 

[Rekusu]

Thanks. Have just ordered the three pulleys so will have to remove the engine mount.

As usual, I'm sure it will be less of a big deal when I get around to doing it. Don't think there is anything wrong with the pulleys, but need to replace the belt and the crankshaft oil seal, so better to do them all at the same time.

Don't understand "(you have to remove nut holding pulley on, slide pulley away to get to undo bolt behind it) then fit new pulley etc " If you have to remove the nut holding the pulley, to allow access to the bolt behind the pulley, is it not possible to just remove the pulley and replace without removing the bracket? Or perhaps there is not sufficient space to actually replace the pulley? Will probably be obvious when I get around to doing the job.

 

[nicam49]

Don't understand "(you have to remove nut holding pulley on, slide pulley away to get to undo bolt behind it) then fit new pulley etc " If you have to remove the nut holding the pulley, to allow access to the bolt behind the pulley, is it not possible to just remove the pulley and replace without removing the bracket? Or perhaps there is not sufficient space to actually replace the pulley? Will probably be obvious when I get around to doing the job.

Watch this guy 13 mins in to get some idea of the bolt wot holds that pulley.

 

[Rekusu]

Excellent find; thanks very much. Seems not totally necessary to remove the mount but for the sake of a couple of bolts, perhaps it makes life easier.

Is it necessary to remove the fuel filter or doing so makes life easier?

God only knows the condition of his car if he has allowed the crank pulley to get to that state? Notice also that his front tyre is probably an MOT failure!!! Love the water around the battery (5!.11) !!! And he turns the crank pulley anti-clock (20:20) while tightening (?) the bolts.

 

[nicam49]

His was a X-Type Jag,
I didn't like the way he levered the engine across to get the idler on!
To make it easier for me, I removed the cover over the turbo. It wld be easier to also remove filter and holder too. I cldnt be bothered!
June 11 update. Removed filter and holder + cover on turbo to get alternator back in. Hardly any struggle at all!

 

[Rekusu]

Thanks. Awaiting the pulleys. Will probably remove the mount and filter as pre-preperation does make the job easier than struggling to gain access.

Seem to recall X years ago, before I lost faith in A.N.Other-Idiot doing things to my car, that I did have someone replace the aux belt and some pulleys. I recall him saying that access was very challenging and having removed one of the pulleys, (don't recall how) he was reducing the length of the thread to re-install. Don't know which part that was, but assume it was the upper pulley. Will find out in due course!

 

[nicam49]

Yeah, sounds very likely!